Dinos

Chad Sepulvado

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Tank has been looking great. Went to test parameters, and nitrates were 0. Immediately fed brine, and added skim cup back to tank. A few hours later I noticed what appear to Dinos scattered around on the rock and sand. It’s not bad, and no
Corals are irritated, yet. My plan is to heavy feed reef roids tonight, and blackout for three days. Any other advice? Also, the mouths on my scoly, lobo, and trachy are open. Not sure if it’s related.

Temp 79 ish
Salinity 1.026
Mag 1300
Cal 450
Phos .5
Nitrate 0 :/
Ph 8.2

6A4649FA-973D-4472-A64B-5BDE1531C25F.jpeg
 
You will get many different thoughts on this. Have you looked at the dino's under a microscope and confirmed this???
I can tell you what I have done in past when I see something that even remotely looks like dinos, I dos H2O2 (1ml per gallon) and go lights out for 48 hours. This has eradicated it every time.
 
No I don’t have a microscope, but I just assume since there are bubbles on the bottom of my tank that it’s them. Any I’ll effects on cuc or nems from h2o2?
 
If you try dosing peroxide, make sure your power heads are pointed up towards top, and you are getting good aeration. You could use an air stone. I have plenty of flow in my tanks and water movement; never had a problem with anything, and I have BTA's in my system.
 
Having been a member of those dino threads for far too long ;) my advice is as follows.

Pick up a cheap microscope and ID. It will save a bit of a headache long run.

Tye most effective commercial treatment ive used is fauna marin red x. (Not dino x that stuff is not great).

Blackouts wont harm most dinos. They disperse in to water column or sand during lights out. A test was done on thread ages ago on amphidium over 15 day blackout. It was quite happy as many are mixotropic.

Some respond well to UV ie ostreopsis.

I find i now have tank so well balanced that i can tip it in their favour by raising temps and altering salinity/heavy feeding but rid them with no treatment judt by reverting within a day or so.

Dont fret though lots of support for these guys and no where near as hard to get rid of as they were just two year back with advances we as a community have made.
 
No I don’t have a microscope, but I just assume since there are bubbles on the bottom of my tank that it’s them. Any I’ll effects on cuc or nems from h2o2?

Cyano will also grow quickly, form mats or sheets, and entrap bubbles.
Fortunately cyano and dinos are very different under a microscope.
You can get a very inexpensive wifi microscope that will do the job, on ebay or amazon.
 
Can we get a pic under white lights to confirm Dino and Not Cyano?
I have battled both successfully and have recommendation as what worked for me.
 
I will post tomorrow with a white light picture. I’m 99% it’s not Cyano. As per the horror stories, I am not laying low with the treatment. Current steps I’ve taken are a 1 ppm dosing off stump remover, blackout, and h2o2 dosing. So far I don’t see any added negative effects, but it’s just with my cellphone flashlight that I’ve viewed through. In the morning I will turn on the whites, and recheck no3. Just don’t see how I got to zero with 10 fish and an eel. But, like I said, I will update in the morning. Skimmer has been off for 1.5 days as of now. I poured about 1/4 skim cup back into my tank (125 gal), but did nothing. Stump remover had me sketched out, just sounds crazy, so I added a mild dose ( 1 ppm) just to gauge results after about 12 hours.
 
The reason I’m fairly certain it’s not Cyano is I’ve had it previously, and this is completely different. I also Had detectable nitrates with Cyano, and now I don’t have any. Checking po4 again tonight with a Hanna checker as well.
 
Concerned no one is addressing why there is such high pho’s and zero nitrate. .5 and 0 is a huge imbalance. Dyno or not cyno gone now or not.. going to continue having issues if you don’t get the pho’s down or nitrate up. Getting nitrate up with increasing pho’s is almost impossible so need to get pho’s down. Almost sounds as if the only food going into the tank for some time is cheap flake or over dosing in plankton or coral foods..

Glad it seems to be gone now but would guess it will be back soon if water chemistry stays as is..
 
Concerned no one is addressing why there is such high pho’s and zero nitrate. .5 and 0 is a huge imbalance. Dyno or not cyno gone now or not.. going to continue having issues if you don’t get the pho’s down or nitrate up. Getting nitrate up with increasing pho’s is almost impossible so need to get pho’s down. Almost sounds as if the only food going into the tank for some time is cheap flake or over dosing in plankton or coral foods..

Glad it seems to be gone now but would guess it will be back soon if water chemistry stays as is..
Its entirely likely you have another strain pop up, so id invest in a microscope. I'm dubious on the h202 treatment. If it was dinos and you were lucky enough to only have one wouls of been nice to get an ID. Many strains, the theca is too thick to be broken down by the oxydization by h202 in quantites that are reef safe.

Still hood luck but dont let your guard down. First couple if weeks in relapse are the most important.
 
Concerned no one is addressing why there is such high pho’s and zero nitrate. .5 and 0 is a huge imbalance. Dyno or not cyno gone now or not.. going to continue having issues if you don’t get the pho’s down or nitrate up. Getting nitrate up with increasing pho’s is almost impossible so need to get pho’s down. Almost sounds as if the only food going into the tank for some time is cheap flake or over dosing in plankton or coral foods..

Glad it seems to be gone now but would guess it will be back soon if water chemistry stays as is..
I have never used flake. I use Mysis and brine for fish, and raw shrimp for eel. I feed reef roids every three or four days. I have phosguard in the tank.
 

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