Dinos?

[vetteguy53081]

MB7 had no effect on my cyano when I had it a year or so ago after Dinos. I stopped dosing it due to seen no positive effects in my tank.
almost all Dino treatment starts with get po4 and no3 detectable levels. This is to help competition. The journey different after this based on the strains.
If cyano is the issue I would get my nutrients detectable and keep it there and use chemiclean which I soon will be told off but I am strong believer of that stuff

Chemiclean alternative and not always solution. As for bacteria, with cyano being a bacteri source, MB7 or better yer MB-XLM will out compete it/
Dino - = Zero or undetectable.
The problem arises when conditions in the aquarium break the biological balance and some dinoflagellate species spread uncontrollably, smothering the rest of the aquarium inhabitants. If the dinoflagellate species in question has the ability to produce toxins (usual in ostreopsis, gambierdiscus and prorocentrum to name a few)
The problem often arises when we try to bring cleanliness it to the limit, in order to improve its appearance and color of corals.
They tend to occur suddenly when the aquarium water reaches an extraordinary cleanliness, in which most microorganisms perishes for lack of food. With no other organisms that can stop them, this type of dinoflagellate can multiply so fast that when we realize it's late and we will find an aquarium full of brown and ochre slime suffocating fish and invertebrates.

Cyano = High or elevated
This happens in your tank when concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Okay so I ordered a microscope on amazon to make sure, but for now lets assume dinos. Currently dosing NO3 & PO4 to raise both. You suggest to not feed coral?
What about MB7 does or no dose?
I usually do a 10 gallon water change on Sundays. Would you continue with this or no?
Should I even attempt to siphon? All it does is spread everything around the tank.

Dose and trust me on this. Had to manage 80 tanks at my pet store which until I realized my windows were delivering excess light from sun, were causing cyano and after siphoing and blackening those windows and adding at the time, quick start bacteria, that I finally conquered the issue.
This is how my well stock tank looks after doing this once 2 years or more ago

 

[Lavey29]

Does look like Dinos but to be sure get a microscope and check it.

I think this is a bit confusing. Dinos tend to disappear after lights out. Cyano stays usually bushy patches in appearance.

Cyano is usually sign of rapid nutrients change or imbalance.

to be sure I think you better off properly ID your stuff in the sand with microscope. Doesn’t cost much for a used one on eBay.
Added some guide attached. If you don’t ID your stuff you will just begin to experiment with your tank and I would strongly advise against it but it is your call.

From what I've read, cyano is light dependent and much like diatoms goes away overnight hours with lights off. Mine has none of the physical characteristics of dinos and the reddish brown color is more indicative of cyano. Similar to the OP problem pics.

 

[vetteguy53081]

From what I've read, cyano is light dependent and much like diatoms goes away overnight hours with lights off. Mine has none of the physical characteristics of dinos and the reddish brown color is more indicative of cyano. Similar to the OP problem pics.

Correct - all the signs of cyano and cyano can be brown, black and green depending on the strain.

 

[thedon986]

Looks like cyano below right? This was my coolia dino outbreak. Bunch of small round dinos zooming around under the microscope. You can see the brown in the shade, amphidinium. A microscope will solve all this guessing, in the mean time focus on nitrates and phosphates.

 

[attiland]

Looks like cyano below right? This was my coolia dino outbreak. Bunch of small round dinos zooming around under the microscope. You can see the brown in the shade, amphidinium. A microscope will solve all this guessing, in the mean time focus on nitrates and phosphates.

That is the only sure way

 

[aggrofish]

Alright lets see if we can narrow it down:

 

[aggrofish]

Looks like cyano below right? This was my coolia dino outbreak. Bunch of small round dinos zooming around under the microscope. You can see the brown in the shade, amphidinium. A microscope will solve all this guessing, in the mean time focus on nitrates and phosphates.

posted pics. but little things looking like lady bugs swimming around in the microscope

 

[attiland]

Alright lets see if we can narrow it down:

My bet is Prorocentrum

 

[thedon986]

My bet is Prorocentrum

Agree they don't quite have the same "beak" that large cell amphidinium seem to have. If you see quite a few of them motionless while others are moving, I think that is a sign they are prorocentrum.

 

[aggrofish]

Agree they don't quite have the same "beak" that large cell amphidinium seem to have. If you see quite a few of them motionless while others are moving, I think that is a sign they are prorocentrum.

Most were motionless only a handful were moving and they weren’t moving around themselves like I’ve seen in video

 

[aggrofish]

UPDATE: I still have Dinos but they are a fraction of what they were a few weeks ago. I dont know specifically what part is working because I'm just throwing the kitchen sink at it.
1.) heavy dosing of neophos until I got detectable levels and got it up to .10 nitrates running ~10
2.) Siphoning sand bed daily into filter socks and changing filter socks daily
3.) running ROX carbon in both filter cups
4.) alternate dosing of MB7 and MB Clean
5.) Installed a 25 watt UV. return pump to UV, UV to return line
6.) dosing a DIY version of coral snow after cleaning sand and blowing off rocks
7.) zero water changes

The thick matts have thinned out a lot and there's quite a bit less dinos overall. I really notice that the rocks are far less covered than they were before. I've lost quite a bit of corals - pretty much all SPS and a few hammers, frogspawn, and a couple head of Indo torches. Thankfully the 6 head dragon soul and the expensive 24k survived. One head on a NY nicks did die though.

Dinos are a *****. They're getting to a manageable level though and acans, mushrooms, euphelia, etc seem to be doing much better. I've got maybe 30 or so different types of zoas and they seem to love the increased nutrients. Maybe it's just coincidental - I dont know. But I'm not going to let a F'b bacteria win.

 

[thedon986]

Good news. Keep the treatment going for a few weeks after you think all the dinos are gone then resume your normal routine while watching your nutrients and continue adding biodiversity like bacteria, pods, etc.