Diodon holocanthus (porcupine puffer) with crypt

jasonrusso

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I know there are some threads on this, but I have a hard time sorting through and finding the information I need. Please forgive me.



I have a 210 aqueon tank, pH is 8.0, kH, 9, SG 1.023, Ammonia 0, Nitrites 0, Nitrates ~10.



I have a small Diodon holocanthus who came down with a case of crypt nearly overnight. He was fine on Saturday night and had it on Sunday evening. He was (and still is) acting perfectly normal. None of the other tankmates (harlequin tusk, dwarf fuzzy lion, dwarf eel, kole tang, foxface, and coinbearing angler) have even one sign of crypt.



I started treatment with Kordon Herbal Ich attack as that is all I could get at the LFS that wasn't copper based. I had a porcupine for 4 1/2 years previously who used to beat the ich on his own. I would just use Voogle (immune booster) and feed. Sometimes I added kick ich, but it is hard to say what the actual cure was. I was just happy he was cured.



After 3 days of the Ich Attack he seemed to be getting better, then it reappeared and has been pretty bad for the past week or so. I started the treatment of Kick Ich which I had to order. I cannot get my hands on any Voogle at this time. He does not seem to be getting any better or worse. If you couldn't see the crypt, you wouldn't know he had it. He is still eating like a horse and outcompeting fish that are 3 times his size.



He's still in the main tank as all I have for a QT is a 10 gallon which I can have set up in about an hour so that is where I have been treating.



Here is what I know, copper is not an option (is cupramine safer but still copper?), hyposalinity is not good for puffers, so where do I turn. I read your praises of Chloroquine. Is Chloroquine safe for puffers? Any side effects? I ordered some Dr. G Anti-parasitic caviar and I am going to lace the food with this. Should I leave him in the main tank and target feed him the food so he is not stressed or set up the QT? Should I just keep him well fed and happy until he beats it on his own?



I have also shortened the light cycle so he can rest longer. No one else in the tank is picking on him or pays any attention.



Thanks for any help,
 
Cupramine is ionic copper, so it's the "regular" kind. CopperSafe, which is chelated can be gentler, but don't know how sensitive puffers are. I think that the anti-parasitic caviar is Praziquantel, which is effective against flukes and other sorts of worms, but not against Cryptocaryon. In any case, I'm not aware of anything that'll wipe it out in a display tank filled with fish - and don't trust any of the herbal remedies or Kordon, particularly, after an experience with their chelated copper product.

Hopefully @Humblefish or @melypr1985 can shed more light on the subject of puffers and Crypto!

~Bruce
 
I think that the anti-parasitic caviar is Praziquantel, which is effective against flukes and other sorts of worms, but not against Cryptocaryon.

Dr G anti-parasitic caviar is Chloroquine phosphate. The "de-wormer" caviar is Praziquantel.
 
In any case, I'm not aware of anything that'll wipe it out in a display tank filled with fish

Also, I'm not trying to cure the tank, the rest seem fine. I'm just trying to cure my still very active/hungry little guy.

I know that there is crypto in the tank. There are also harmful bacteria, etc. All we can do is keep everyone healthy enough they don't get it. When/if they do, I have to deal.
 
I started feeding the Dr g food yesterday. He took it willingly so that's good. I gave him some more this morning and have some more krill soaking all day. Hopefully I'll see some good signs quick. He's a little trooper.
 
If you just want to manage ich, read this: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-eradication-vs-ich-management.188775/

For treatment, CP works great on puffers: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/chloroquine-phosphate.192309/

Coppersafe would be my second choice.

How long until I start seeing results? From what I read 3-4 days. All the fish seem to be eating the pieces and the puffer really doesn't mind. All the reviews of the Dr G food say it works as long as the fish eat it (which is obvious).
 
The parasites that are already on your puffer are "safe", as waterborne meds don't kill parasites on the fish. They'll remain on the fish for 2-3 days. Once those ones break away to go gestate a few hundred daughter parasites, things should clear up, as medications work best on the parasites which are in the water column actively hunting fish.

~Bruce
 
Is fish "flashing" normal as the parasite dies? Not so much the puffer, but my other fish. Everyone has been eating the medicated food. No one else showed any signs before, but that doesn't mean it wasn't on them.

I may see a slight improvement on the puffer, it may also be wishful thinking
 

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