Disease ID

jimmypencil

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Showed up over night. Brook or velvet I’m guessing. Never dealt with either. I have no way to set up a qt in the next few days so I’m guessing it’s game over. Currently only spots/dusting appearance on the one clownfish (the darker one in the video). Lesson learned


Yellow hog fish, 6 line and possum wrasse, chalk bass, tomini tang, banghai cardinals, and lawnmower blenny all look good for now.
 
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While photo quality is terrible and I really can't be 100%, it looks like brook to me. Do you have a 5g bucket? You could move the clowns for now if you can't set up a large tank right now for everyone. Clowns are most susceptible to brook. If you have no medications, a FW dip can help relieve symptoms before going into QT.



Do you have any meds on hand at all?
 
While photo quality is terrible and I really can't be 100%, it looks like brook to me. Do you have a 5g bucket? You could move the clowns for now if you can't set up a large tank right now for everyone. Clowns are most susceptible to brook. If you have no medications, a FW dip can help relieve symptoms before going into QT.



Do you have any meds on hand at all?
I do have some I’ll have to look at what I have tomorrow and let you know. What meds do you recommend ? I’ll put them in a bucket tomorrow and do fresh water dip. Thanks for the help.
 
I do have some I’ll have to look at what I have tomorrow and let you know. What meds do you recommend ? I’ll put them in a bucket tomorrow and do fresh water dip. Thanks for the help.
Its brook, and these poor guys are struggling in the water current which is a little strong. Confirming brooklynella with bacterial lesions. The most significant sign is the amount of slime on its body. The thick mucus on its body is a second sign which is noticeable on the fish. This mucus generally starts at the facial area as well as gills and spreads across the body producing lesions as it progresses often confused with ich and can turn into secondary bacteria. Other symptoms will be lethargic behavior, refusing to eat and heavy breathing from the mucus.
Typical treatment is a formalin solution is mixed with in a separate container with either fresh or saltwater. Start with a quick dip in the formalin at a higher concentration then performing treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin base at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue.
If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective but now harder to find) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.
With the advanced stage of this- I recommend immediate quarantine of all inhabitants and leaving display without fish for 4-6 weeks.
A quarantine system if you dont have one can be as simple as a starter tank kit from walmart which has most of the essentials
 
Its brook, and these poor guys are struggling in the water current which is a little strong. Confirming brooklynella with bacterial lesions. The most significant sign is the amount of slime on its body. The thick mucus on its body is a second sign which is noticeable on the fish. This mucus generally starts at the facial area as well as gills and spreads across the body producing lesions as it progresses often confused with ich and can turn into secondary bacteria. Other symptoms will be lethargic behavior, refusing to eat and heavy breathing from the mucus.
Typical treatment is a formalin solution is mixed with in a separate container with either fresh or saltwater. Start with a quick dip in the formalin at a higher concentration then performing treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin base at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue.
If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective but now harder to find) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.
With the advanced stage of this- I recommend immediate quarantine of all inhabitants and leaving display without fish for 4-6 weeks.
A quarantine system if you dont have one can be as simple as a starter tank kit from walmart which has most of the essentials
I will purchase and set up qt tomorrow. Not looking forward to catching all my fish. Everything just started settling in and growing nicely. Here’s more pics I just took.

hopefully they can make it long enough for me to treat.
DCB36477-35EC-45A8-B0F9-64F2534C3604.png
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AD5837FC-36A6-4F4D-9AC0-887056C2166A.png
 
Its brook, and these poor guys are struggling in the water current which is a little strong. Confirming brooklynella with bacterial lesions. The most significant sign is the amount of slime on its body. The thick mucus on its body is a second sign which is noticeable on the fish. This mucus generally starts at the facial area as well as gills and spreads across the body producing lesions as it progresses often confused with ich and can turn into secondary bacteria. Other symptoms will be lethargic behavior, refusing to eat and heavy breathing from the mucus.
Typical treatment is a formalin solution is mixed with in a separate container with either fresh or saltwater. Start with a quick dip in the formalin at a higher concentration then performing treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin base at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue.
If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective but now harder to find) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.
With the advanced stage of this- I recommend immediate quarantine of all inhabitants and leaving display without fish for 4-6 weeks.
A quarantine system if you dont have one can be as simple as a starter tank kit from walmart which has most of the essentials
Just purchased qt tank. I did a fresh water dip on the clowns last night . I’ll order the formalin and I guess transfer all the fish when I get it? What other meds should I order?
 
Just purchased qt tank. I did a fresh water dip on the clowns last night . I’ll order the formalin and I guess transfer all the fish when I get it? What other meds should I order?
Formalin will have to be diluted to a37% solution but ruby rally pro is also good to have
 
This is what I got, I’ll grab ruby rally too. Thanks for the help!
B5795D0F-DC58-4E1C-ACAB-180691534732.png
Formalin is dosed at 1ml per 10 gallons for approximately one week with no carbon and add aeration with air stone
 
Formalin is dosed at 1ml per 10 gallons for approximately one week with no carbon and add aeration with air stone
ok so i got a 29 gallon qt tank with hob filter and air pump. how big of a daily water change do i have to do on qt tank? and when i do lets say a 50% water change on the 29 gallon qt tank would i add back 1.5 ml (50% of total dose) of the formalin to the qt tank?

The formalin comes on thursday so i really hope they can make it till then. ive been doing daily freshwater dips in the mean time.
 
also, if i treat with both formalin and rally pro, can i dose them to the qt at the same time? it seems that some of my fish just have ich, the one clownfish has brook or velvet, and one fish looks like theres some frayed fins. I need to treat for everything, so im not sure how to go about it as this is my first experience with a qt tank lol.
 
ok so i got a 29 gallon qt tank with hob filter and air pump. how big of a daily water change do i have to do on qt tank? and when i do lets say a 50% water change on the 29 gallon qt tank would i add back 1.5 ml (50% of total dose) of the formalin to the qt tank?

The formalin comes on thursday so i really hope they can make it till then. ive been doing daily freshwater dips in the mean time.
Add back the treatment yes and you dont need to a water change unless water tests suggest need to via a reliable test kit
 
also, if i treat with both formalin and rally pro, can i dose them to the qt at the same time? it seems that some of my fish just have ich, the one clownfish has brook or velvet, and one fish looks like theres some frayed fins. I need to treat for everything, so im not sure how to go about it as this is my first experience with a qt tank lol.
Im not a fan of mixing meds and would not suggest doing so. I would prioritize and go with Formalin first
 
i have api ammonia test kit on hand and i also ordered the badges just now. its gonna be about 11 nano fish in 29 gallon qt.
I trust neither the badge and API kit- Both known for false readings and Very well known for false readings Often showing lower readings than are actual why I suggested to take a water sample to a store that does NOT use Api kits and have them test your ammonia and nitrates and compare readings- then you'll know where your levels truly are at
I will never trust a $7 badge or $25 master kit to sustain hundreds of dollars in livestock.
 
I trust neither the badge and API kit- Both known for false readings and Very well known for false readings Often showing lower readings than are actual why I suggested to take a water sample to a store that does NOT use Api kits and have them test your ammonia and nitrates and compare readings- then you'll know where your levels truly are at
I will never trust a $7 badge or $25 master kit to sustain hundreds of dollars in livestock.
i agree, just saw others with qt that used the badge so figured id have it.

what brand test kit do you reccomend? i dont have lfs nearby that i trust and i dont think they have ammonia test kits that arent api anyway lol.
 
I trust neither the badge and API kit- Both known for false readings and Very well known for false readings Often showing lower readings than are actual why I suggested to take a water sample to a store that does NOT use Api kits and have them test your ammonia and nitrates and compare readings- then you'll know where your levels truly are at
I will never trust a $7 badge or $25 master kit to sustain hundreds of dollars in livestock.
ruby rally and formalin come tomorrow.

Ive now done 3 total fresh water dips (5min each) in the past 4 days on the clownfish that has visible "brook" like symptoms and to the other clownfish that doesnt have any symptoms.

the condition of both fish havent changed at all and they are still eating and look ok. does that change anything about the diagnosis? all other fish show no signs of brook and theres been no deaths.
 

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