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FloatinBy

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About 2.5weeks ago I purchased my 1st fish for my 100 gallon tank. I set up a 12gal QT tank and habe had them in there since bringing them home. I had a pair of clowns and a small yellow sail fin and some pvc for caves...one 1st day they eat a little but on day 2 they all eat well and have been up until this morning. Day 4 i started dosing with coppersafe per directions on bottle and have a safe alert badge in tank for ammonia. All have been doing great and no signs of distress....til this morning....my sailfin was dead [emoji26] [emoji35]....i have no idea what happened...have done 2 4gal water changes [just easy math as its 1tsp/4gal of water for the coppersafe). Parameters are great...I didnt test ammonia woth test kit as ive read that it might not work properly with copper in the tank. He was a little pricey at $40 bucks especially to a newbie....the clowns are still doing great anf chowed down just fine this morning. No bite marks or signs of injury noted to sailfin. Im not 100% on how to correctly test for copper as its coppersafe plus i cant really fimd parameters either other then what bottle says....1tsp/4gal of tankwater and its stable for 30days....Ny suggestions or chalk it up to "**** happens"
 
Get a API [or chemetrics ($$$)] copper test kit, for coppersafe shoot for 2.0ppm copper. If the copper is prophylactic treatment then you should raise the copper level over many days, like 5, so it's less stressful. I couldn't tell how quick you raised the level, if you added the full dose at once that could have been too sudden and caused a problem by not letting the fish get used to the copper.

An ammonia alert badge is good to use during copper or anytime, I have one on my quarantine any time they are setup. Cheap and easy to just shine a light and make sure it looks yellow (0 ammonia)

Sorry for your loss, it's a bummer.
 
Can i run carbon with the coppersafe? It doesnt say one way or the other really. I know the other copper u cannot but according to Fritz the only way to remove their coppersafe is thru water changes. I ask bc QT tank gets cloudy sometimes then clears up by itself but i just have sponge filters in my hob filter and on powerhead
 
Fish losses suck. Unfortunately, sometimes it is just part of hobby, as crappy as that sounds. Some fish just don't make it. But this is also why QT is a good thing. If there is something that affected the sailfin, it is contained.
 
I did 3 days im QT strictly observation. No s/s of issues and all were eatting very well. Day 4 started coppersafe and will continue for 30days.
 
Without a post-mortem on the fish (serious – see @Paul B's past comments or ask him about it) all you can do is guess at what you could do better next time. I've seen some folks suggest blaming the fish or a mystery disease that there was no sign of and proceeding "as usual". That is not very helpful or progressive. ;)

One factor is that 12G makes for a very small QT. The clowns alone or the tang* alone would have been plenty for the size IMO – maybe still too much in terms of stress.

Not that 3 fish is a huge number by any means, but there are good reasons to add livestock 1-2 at a time that go beyond QT size and relate to disease and system stability in the display too.

Is your QT outfitted prison style (bare w/PVC decorations) since you're using it as a medication tank too? Prison-style raises the stress level vs a naturalistic setup. Adding meds raises the stress level vs a clean, seasoned tank.

All stress factors that I would personally change next time...none is even difficult (as long as you catch the 40B at Petco's $1/gal sale):
  • if you're specializing in nano-fish, that would make the 10 Gallon QT about right
  • you should consider a 40 Breeder the perfect sized QT
  • a 20 Gallon sould be considered small
  • Outit the QT naturalistically. At least with some fake plants. Ideally with a chunk or two of live rock as well.
  • Definitely has to be a well-seasoned tank....set up as if the fish were to live there permanently (if not in high style).
  • Medicate only as-needed, but you can use many meds on this setup and not worry too much about the rock.
  • Have a separate hospital tank like your 12G for treating with harsher medications that would nuke your nice QT. This hospital tank is the one that can be set up prison style as the fish usually won't be in it for very long at all.
I hope this helps! Please don't hesitate to ask if you have questions...you're welcome to PM if you'd prefer. :)




* You may already know it, but if you're successful with them and they grow up, Sailfins get too huge for a 100 gallon tank. A Vlamengi would be the only common tang you'd find that grows larger. Personally I'd recommend any of the Bristletooth tangs first as they seem by far to be the best aquarium inhabitants of the family. Depending on plans for the tank, maybe consider something like a Klein's Butterflyfish instead of the Sailfin if you still want something with "similar" colors. Klein's a great schooler with excellent personality, but if they get hungry they do have a willingness to eat polyps (e.g. zoa's). Use an auto-feeder and keep it tuned up. :)
 
What made you start copper? That is a tough way to run a QT the first time you've done one.
 
I was following the tread "Beginners Guide to acclamation and quarantine"
 

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