Display tank ich ..

[Arturs Millers]

Hi guys so my tank is experiencing ich i want to setup treatment tank so i could run hyposalinity treatment but how big should be the tank and what should i add in tank ? I have pair off clowns , flame angel , blue tang , powder brown tang , 2x wrasses , and 1x pajama cardinal . Should i remove snails , crabs , shrimps too from DT ??

 

[Porpoise Hork]

For that bioload you will need a 40 breeder at the very least. Or get several 20G tanks and break them up. Get a HOB Aquaclear filter 70 and only run mechanical filtration in it. No carbon as it will pull the copper out. Put a basic light over the tank and a heater. Place a bunch of sections of PVC in there for hiding places and be sure to get a SeaChem Ammonia Alert tag and be ready to do daily water changes on it.

Hyposalinity will not kill ICH. Copper is the only thing that will and it has to be within .2-.5 ppm. If you have a fish that is sensitive to copper then it will need to be in it's own tank.

If it's a fish only tank, then removing the inverts is a must. Otherwise you will need to catch all of the fish and move them to a hospital tank or tanks for treatment. If you do not have any ready to go and need something immediate go get some of these.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-27-Gal-Tough-Storage-Tote-in-Black-HDX27GONLINE-5/205978361

They are reef safe and you can put all your fish in there with a heater/ HOB filter or powerhead and start treatment. The main tank will need to remain fishless for at least 72 days to ensure the ICH parasite is completely dead.

If you don't want to go that route and do not have corals, pull the inverts and treat the tank with Cupramine as it stays in suspension and won't leech into the rock like standard copper. You will need to do treat for at least a month until there are no signs of infection. Then use Cuprasorb to pull the meds out and then do multiple large water changes and test for copper after each one until you get at least 3-4 successive 0 copper results.

Good luck.

 

[Arturs Millers]

For that bioload you will need a 40 breeder at the very least. Or get several 20G tanks and break them up. Get a HOB Aquaclear filter 70 and only run mechanical filtration in it. No carbon as it will pull the copper out. Put a basic light over the tank and a heater. Place a bunch of sections of PVC in there for hiding places and be sure to get a SeaChem Ammonia Alert tag and be ready to do daily water changes on it.

Hyposalinity will not kill ICH. Copper is the only thing that will and it has to be within .2-.5 ppm. If you have a fish that is sensitive to copper then it will need to be in it's own tank.

If it's a fish only tank, then removing the inverts is a must. Otherwise you will need to catch all of the fish and move them to a hospital tank or tanks for treatment. If you do not have any ready to go and need something immediate go get some of these.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-27-Gal-Tough-Storage-Tote-in-Black-HDX27GONLINE-5/205978361

They are reef safe and you can put all your fish in there with a heater/ HOB filter or powerhead and start treatment. The main tank will need to remain fishless for at least 72 days to ensure the ICH parasite is completely dead.

If you don't want to go that route and do not have corals, pull the inverts and treat the tank with Cupramine as it stays in suspension and won't leech into the rock like standard copper. You will need to do treat for at least a month until there are no signs of infection. Then use Cuprasorb to pull the meds out and then do multiple large water changes and test for copper after each one until you get at least 3-4 successive 0 copper results.

Good luck.

If i setup new tank for them and do only hyposalinity treatment it wont help ??

 

[Porpoise Hork]

Hyposalinity wont kill the parasite when it is in the free swimming stages of it's life cycle. Copper is the only thing that will and total treatment time is at least 14 days but a month is ideal to be absolutely sure they are parasite free. Just be sure to go bare bottom so the parasites do not have a place to settle and lay their eggs etc. As for the main tank it will need to remain fishless for at least 72 days. Corals and inverts will be fine as long as you toss a little food for the inverts.

 

[Arturs Millers]

Hyposalinity wont kill the parasite when it is in the free swimming stages of it's life cycle. Copper is the only thing that will. Just be sure to go bare bottom so the parasites do not have a place to settle and lay their eggs etc. As for the main tank it will need to remain fishless for at least 72 days. Corals and inverts will be fine as long as you toss a little food for the inverts.

Thanks so i need to find new tank fast and some copper somewhere..

 

[Porpoise Hork]

Your LFS should have Cupramine in stock. As for the tank, you can always look on Cragslist or local sales apps for a tank for cheap. Petco may be having their aquarium sale in your area so you might be able to score one. Also with the QT tank, get a bottle or two of SeaChem Stability and treat the tank as if it were a new setup per the instructions. The bacteria in it will survive the Cupramine dosing to establish some level of bio-filtration for Ammonia and Nitrite reduction.

 

[Arturs Millers]

Your LFS should have Cupramine in stock. As for the tank, you can always look on Cragslist or local sales apps for a tank for cheap. Petco may be having their aquarium sale in your area so you might be able to score one. Also with the QT tank, get a bottle or two of SeaChem Stability and treat the tank as if it were a new setup per the instructions. The bacteria in it will survive the Cupramine dosing to establish some level of bio-filtration for Ammonia and Nitrite reduction.

That's the problem im located in Europe/Denmark meds here is not allowed to be sold in petshops only trought vets and it will cost fortune to get them from them and its a question if they will even give them to you.. im allready for look out for some 60gal tank probably will get some tomorrow.. if i will have time tomorrow i will go to my not so local petshop and find out maybe he has something to help me out with .

 

[Porpoise Hork]

That certainly does present and issue.

You can go here and search for local vendors to see if you can find something close to you.

http://sd.seachem.com/DealerLocatorStart.php

Best of luck to you.

 

[Arturs Millers]

That certainly does present and issue.

You can go here and search for local vendors to see if you can find something close to you.

http://sd.seachem.com/DealerLocatorStart.php

Best of luck to you.

This is what i can get tomorrow .. is it any good ??

 

[Porpoise Hork]

That should work fine. Just be sure to get a copper test kit that will work for ionic copper so you know you are in the therapeutic range to kill the parasites and not become toxic for the fish. Also Flame Angels are sensitive to copper so you want to be careful with the dosing.

 

[Arturs Millers]

That should work fine. Just be sure to get a copper test kit that will work for ionic copper so you know you are in the therapeutic range to kill the parasites and not become toxic for the fish. Also Flame Angels are sensitive to copper so you want to be careful with the dosing.

Wow thanks for letting know ) salifer test kit wont do the trick right ? Because thats the only one i can get my hands on

 

[Porpoise Hork]

From what I can see the Salifert kit will work with the copper treatment you have available. Reading up on Coninuum Aquatics brand, it does look to be very similar to SeaChem's Cupramine. Depending on the concentration, it can be pretty potent stuff. An added benefit is it 100% removable with Cuprasorb or carbon, and should not leech into the hospital tank glass or support equipment.

 

[Japtastic]

Good luck Arturs, hows it going? Been through it myself. If you can, do yourself a massive favour and get a HR or LR Hanna Copper checker. It allows you to be a lot more accurate to ensure you don't slip out of therapeutic range because something has absorbed the Copper. Also the other end, it allows more accuracy to ensure you don't go too strong! LR works well for Cupramine and anything targeting that range. Cupramine is 500ppb strength for theraputic.

Some more info here:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/c...instruments-high-range-copper-checker.368943/
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/c...ents-high-range-copper-checker.368943/page-59

 

[4FordFamily]

hyposalinity does work for ich, but some strains have shown that they can survive this treatment.

It’s velvet that is unaffected by hyposalinity. It’s also more common these days.

Pictures could help with ID. As a general rule if you can easily count the spots it’s probably ich. If they become so numerous that it is not possible or would be very very difficult on a moving fish, it’s almost always velvet. Velvet spots are a bit smaller, and damage the gills faster which is why many affected fish (particularly tangs) will swim in to powerheads to move oxygen through their damaged gills so they can breathe.

All clean up crew/inverts (anything but fish) should not be present during hyposalinity or copper treatments.

 

[GoldeneyeRet]

Ich can usually be killed by hypo, it's just not the preferred method by many.

Chloroquine phosphate also works. But that's probably harder to get than copper.

 

[GoldeneyeRet]

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/hyposalinity.247596/