Dittatat bubblegum

South Carolina reef

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Hello, so I am relatively new. I purchased this as a test as it was well priced. I suspect my lights are the cause as they are redsea 50s. And this coral if about 14" below just about directly under the light. It just looks awful. It's been about 3 weeks since I put it in. And yes my tank may not be ready as it is 4 months young. Do you think it's lighting

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What are your nutrient levels: phosphates and Nitrates? Alk, calcium, and magnesium? Are your parameters stable? Digitata is a "less picky" SPS but it still requires certain things to live.

Welcome to the saltwater world! I hope it works out and starts thriving for you.
 
What are your nutrient levels: phosphates and Nitrates? Alk, calcium, and magnesium? Are your parameters stable? Digitata is a "less picky" SPS but it still requires certain things to live.

Welcome to the saltwater world! I hope it works out and starts thriving for you.
Thank you. My levels are very stable. I check alk 8.5 nitrates are about 8~ phosphate..02 calcium around 420. I think the lights are the cause.
 
One thing to consider for future posts, if you can turn the blue off on your lights and take pictures under white light or use an orange or brown filter to filter out the blue it makes it easier for us to see what you're seeing. Also, if you have a manual mode on your camera and can adjust the white balance, turn that up to as close to 10,000k as you can and it'll take a lot of the blue out.
 
Yeah. I should have purchased the 90s as the 50s just don't support enough wattage for penitrating water. Lessons learned. I may upgrade or add a light bar.
Thanks for the tip on wb in my camera. On pro mode it works well.
 

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One thing to consider for future posts, if you can turn the blue off on your lights and take pictures under white light or use an orange or brown filter to filter out the blue it makes it easier for us to see what you're seeing. Also, if you have a manual mode on your camera and can adjust the white balance, turn that up to as close to 10,000k as you can and it'll take a lot of the blue out.
Replied to the wrong thread. Thanks for the tip. On pro mode and adjust wb much better see below
 
Thanks for the tip on wb in my camera. On pro mode it works well.
Unfortunately that digi is gone, but they are one of the easiest sps to start with so dont fret! They are incredibly forgiving as far as lighting goes but they usually need 150+ par at least. They have no upper limit in most cases as they will take in as much light as you give them.
 
Looks like the lights might be a little strong and those do need some flow...
 
I think it is just a young tank, and getting lighting fixed up right. I see the rock has almost no biofilm or anything. Its something we have all done so dont feel too bad.
 
Unfortunately that digi is gone, but they are one of the easiest sps to start with so dont fret! They are incredibly forgiving as far as lighting goes but they usually need 150+ par at least. They have no upper limit in most cases as they will take in as much light as you give them.
It's not fully gone. It there's a Polyp left they can recover. It doesn't hurt to leave it in the tank either way.
 
Unfortunately that digi is gone, but they are one of the easiest sps to start with so dont fret! They are incredibly forgiving as far as lighting goes but they usually need 150+ par at least. They have no upper limit in most cases as they will take in as much light as you give them.
I thought it may be toast. Bummer... I really need to find a PAR meter. According to redsea information average par at abut this depth should be about 200 foe the 50s.
 

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