DIY 2x4 stand vertical leg orientation

Boxofpurplerocks · Mar 4, 2020

Hello all,

Quick question for you all before I begin my stand build. I'm planning on building a stand for my new 40b out of 2x4s using the classic diy stand model. I'm hoping to put a Trigger systems Ruby 30 sump under my stand, however I realized that there will not be enough length under the stand from leg to leg. What I'm wondering, is if it will impact the structural integrity of the stand to rotate the vertical legs (legs on inside of top and bottom frame) 90 degrees, so that if you are facing the stand, you are viewing the skinny ends of the 2x4s rather than wide end. It's hard to put into words what I'm trying to say, hopefully the attached pictures make it clear. Let me know your all thoughts and whether you think this will impact it structurally or not.

**Edit- I would still be putting in 2x4 supports on all corners between top and bottom frame, just used those photos because they were good examples on orientation of legs.

texdoc77 · Mar 4, 2020

No, I don't think so but you will need a 2x4 between the top and bottom rails. That way the top rail is supported by the 2x4, not the nails. And that 2x4 needs to be oriented so that the front and side rails both sit on it.

Boxofpurplerocks · Mar 4, 2020

texdoc77 said:
No, I don't think so but you will need a 2x4 between the top and bottom rails. That way the top rail is supported by the 2x4, not the nails. And that 2x4 needs to be oriented so that the front and side rails both sit on it.

Yep, definitely understood on that front. I only used those pictures to demonstrate the orientation of the legs. 2x4's would be going on each side of the corners between top and bottom frame (8 total like you said) to support the load.

motortrendz · Mar 4, 2020

If you skin it(with plywood, to support the frame from twist and sway), you could kreg screw the jack studs in and you wont need that inside nailer stud. Just use a few extra jack studs across the back and frame out your door opening

pdxmonkeyboy · Mar 4, 2020

The force exerted by a full 40g tank is NOWHERE near the force required to sheer screws off.

Ergo.. it will be perfectly find and you dont need the 2x4 to be directly under the horizontal rails. Four 2x4 is PLENTY of support.

On my 6,500 lb 600 gallon tank... yeah, on a 40 gallon. Its laughable.

motortrendz · Mar 4, 2020

Screws are not structurally rated by any means. Add a year or 2 of salt corrosion... I'd rather play it safe, and with 10$ worth of wood than to rely on a cast screw.

pdxmonkeyboy · Mar 5, 2020

What on earth are you talking about? There are sheer and pull out strength tables for screws and nails all over the internet. Not too mention stainless screws rated for saltwater contact. Epoxy coated deck screws will laugh at saltwater.

And just as an FWI screws are not cast, they are machined from stock.

Honestly, if you are not certain about things then don't post willy nilly. Sure, you would put more 2x4, that's fine.

But saying that screws are not structurally rated and they are going to disintegrate from saltwater contact is patently not true.

motortrendz · Mar 5, 2020

I'm not talking about structural screws, framing strong tie screws or decking screws that are coated for exterior. And I never said anything about nails, nails are structure rated. I'm talking about your standard black interior drywall screw.(which are not structurally rated, and will snap if you look at them wrong.) The ones most people, that dont know any better use. So before you want to start talking about how I dont know what I'm talking about and your the man brother. Take a step back and talk, dont n put someone down bc you believe your answer is better. You do you, . And I still 100% stand behind my statement of using a jack stud to support weight instead of a screw. You build a stand how you want (btw very nice work on the acrylic tank, I saw that the other day) and I'll continue to build mine the way I do. I dont care if its for a 40 gallon or a second floor swimming pool. Wood will support weight better than a screw going threw it.

Reef-junky · Mar 5, 2020

You could always go with just a plywood stand. You can also over size the stand a bit to give your self room for the sump.

Sisterlimonpot · Mar 5, 2020

Boxofpurplerocks said:
Hello all,

Quick question for you all before I begin my stand build. I'm planning on building a stand for my new 40b out of 2x4s using the classic diy stand model. I'm hoping to put a Trigger systems Ruby 30 sump under my stand, however I realized that there will not be enough length under the stand from leg to leg. What I'm wondering, is if it will impact the structural integrity of the stand to rotate the vertical legs (legs on inside of top and bottom frame) 90 degrees, so that if you are facing the stand, you are viewing the skinny ends of the 2x4s rather than wide end. It's hard to put into words what I'm trying to say, hopefully the attached pictures make it clear. Let me know your all thoughts and whether you think this will impact it structurally or not.

**Edit- I would still be putting in 2x4 supports on all corners between top and bottom frame, just used those photos because they were good examples on orientation of legs.

Box,
You explained it well, I'm sure I understand. Orienting the 2x4s either way is perfectly fine. The load that will be subjected to those studs is nowhere near the max. For that matter, it's simply preference. If you need to twist them to accommodate a sump, I wouldn't hesitate to say yes, there's no reason to stop you from doing that.

sde1500 · Mar 5, 2020

Orient them however it works best for you. In truth, you could just do a stand out of 3/4 ply and be completely fine.

Boxofpurplerocks · Mar 5, 2020

Sisterlimonpot said:
Box,
You explained it well, I'm sure I understand. Orienting the 2x4s either way is perfectly fine. The load that will be subjected to those studs is nowhere near the max. For that matter, it's simply preference. If you need to twist them to accommodate a sump, I wouldn't hesitate to say yes, there's no reason to stop you from doing that.

Got it, thanks for your reply!

Boxofpurplerocks · Mar 5, 2020

sde1500 said:
Orient them however it works best for you. In truth, you could just do a stand out of 3/4 ply and be completely fine.

From what I've read that definitely seems to be the case. However I am not a good enough wood worker myself to pull that off (building with 3/4 ply), so overbuilding with 2x4's seems to be my safest bet.

Boxofpurplerocks · Mar 5, 2020

Reef-junky said:
You could always go with just a plywood stand. You can also over size the stand a bit to give your self room for the sump.

I would, however I dont think I have the skills necessary to properly construct/design so that it will carry the load correctly and safely. Although itll be overbuilt, 2x4s seem like the safest option.

pdxmonkeyboy · Mar 5, 2020

Sorry about that. Really long day yesterday, and I forget that some folks lack knowledge of fasteners and construction techniques, etc.

As motortrends said, do not use drywall screws they are garbage. For like $2 more you can get much better screws that are easier to use, are stronger and won't rust away. GRK screws are really nice.

You are looking for lag screws, the threads dont go all the way to the head of the screw. That way, when you screw two things together the screw is able to suck them tight together.

Reef-junky · Mar 5, 2020

Some ideas

Here is my attempt at plywood stand -- trim question

I used one sheet of 8' x 4' 3/4" Red Oak plywood from HD for $49, 100 pack of kreg screws for $4 and one 24x24" scrap piece of birch ply from my wood pile for the bottom piece (since its hidden and I wasn't going to go buy another sheet of red oak) The stand is 24 x 24 x 36 for my Biocube 29...

www.reef2reef.com

DIY plywood stand tutorial?

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show me your DIY plywood stands

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www.reef2reef.com