DIY ATO, tapping into plumbing question

[shollis2814]

So, my tank sits right above an area where I have some easy access to water supply line in my crawl space (really more like an unfinished basement). I'm wondering if I could drill a small hole in my floor for some tubing and then underneath have an RO/DI unit tapped into my house plumbing.

Is this possible and feasible?
I already have a couple of float switches I used in a previous setup with a reservoir.

 

[krbnsol]

I have a setup that is close to this. My RODI unit is in the basement - just below the kitchen. I then let the RODI fill up a brute can. When needed I pump the water from downstairs up to my ATO reservoir.

I think you are looking to plumb the ATO directly to the RODI unit. This means the RODI needs to go vertical a certain # of feet. I'm guessing the limitation would be the water pressure and the ability for the water to travel to its vertical destination. Do I have this kind of right / what you are looking for?

 

[Snoopy 67]

Possible & feasible.
2 things -- temps in the space will not freeze water will it?
& plumb into a container not direct to the sump.

 

[krbnsol]

Possible & feasible.
2 things -- temps in the space will not freeze water will it?
& plumb into a container not direct to the sump.

I was thinking the same thing as well when I replied ---- need to make sure that RODI unit doesn't freeze up. Seems the OP is in Nashville ---- I guess it gets kinda chilly there!

 

[JKenny]

shollis2814,
I also have my RO/DI unit in the basement, 1 floor below my tank. I drilled a 1" hole in the floor behind my DT and ran RO 1/4 tubing from the RO/DI basement unit up into the DT sump with shut-off valves on either end feeding my Eshopps 5 gal ATO. When I need RO water in the Eshopps, I just run the RO/DI unit till its full. For spill protection, 1) I only feed water into the RO/DI unit when I need it, 2) the Eshopps has a float shut-off built in & 3) I have my own shut-off valves on both sides of the line. It may be overkill, but, I've read too many stories about automatic RO/ATO setups that have gone wrong.
Hope this helps...

 

[WVNed]

Look at kits for installing an ice maker for a fridge. What you want to do is bacically the same thing.

 

[shollis2814]

I was thinking the same thing as well when I replied ---- need to make sure that RODI unit doesn't freeze up. Seems the OP is in Nashville ---- I guess it gets kinda chilly there!

Replying hopefully to all three posts.

It does get chilly under there (and in Nashville), but plans for outlets, etc. (It's more of an unfinished workspace than crawspace. You enter from the garage and there is some insulation) so I could theoretically have a heater going in my larger reservoir.

I don't have room under my stand for a large reservoir. I was hoping to maybe have a pump that could send it up 7-9' (estimate). I think My questions are a) how should I tie in this guy into my plumbing?

b) If I had this filling a large Brute can, how would I stop it from overflowing, and then I know I could rig up the float system in my sump if I could get a pump with enough power to send the water up that height. My best guess is probably about 8' from underthe house to the height up through the floor.

c) Big old wish list would be to set up two brute cans and mix my own salt. When I do a water change, I could just swap the pump from the ATO over to the salt reservoir until it fills up and then switch back for ATO.

I know this is probably overkill for a 33-long, but I think it's fun to think about and DIY.

 

[Snoopy 67]

The RO should go into a container & many do use a Brute can. If you run to the sump the constant ON, OFF cycles will foul the membrane as the longer run times help flush the membrane.
Install a float valve on the line into the can to shut the unit down when full to the level you want.
A Fluval pump would be my suggestion to pump the water up, they are very reliable & can run submerged.
2 cans connected by plumbing with the 1 pump would work. Look up mixing station for suggestions & pics.

 

[Flippers4pups]

The RO should go into a container & many do use a Brute can. If you run to the sump the constant ON, OFF cycles will foul the membrane as the longer run times help flush the membrane.
Install a float valve on the line into the can to shut the unit down when full to the level you want.
A Fluval pump would be my suggestion to pump the water up, they are very reliable & can run submerged.
2 cans connected by plumbing with the 1 pump would work. Look up mixing station for suggestions & pics.

This^. Plus having a float valve to control a ATO directly attached to a RO/DI unit is asking for a flood if the float valve sticks open.