Good luck, lol... Now when you try to solder all the heat will be transfered to the u chanell thru the led. Your going to have to be very careful now not to fry the leds or have cold solder joints that show up later.
diy canopy and led
- Thread starter gmoney243
- Start date
- Tagged users None
Good luck, lol... Now when you try to solder all the heat will be transfered to the u chanell thru the led. Your going to have to be very careful now not to fry the leds or have cold solder joints that show up later.
OP
OP
gmoney243
2500 Club Member
everything worked out fine the new iron worked great even on the glued LEDs the solder went down nice and shiny doesnt appear to be cold solder joints they look clean. all lights work pics comming soon as i get these cords straightened up lol thx rick and bill for ur advice 
poolkeeper1
Valuable Member
Your Lucky, Looks good to me Nice work.
Bill
Bill
LeoLionFish
Active Member
Nice job Mike!!!
Travis D.
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Travis D.
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LeoLionFish
Active Member
He is def into GROSS videos!!
Travis D.
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Travis D.
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Yep. If its how you described it then joints should be good. How much thermal glue did you put under the leds? It almost sounds like that stuff is acting like an insulator instead of a conductor. If the leds are transfering heat to the u channel then the solder iron will heat the u channel up while trying to solder the wires to the leds. The u channel should get hot behind the led surface. Looking good!
OP
OP
gmoney243
2500 Club Member
rofl ... well they are turned down to about 33% .. so i did some initial quick par readings ill give more accurate later but im getting max 150 on sandbed in 31" deep tank with lights 7" above water. about a foot down where my rocks start says 350-400. i know they arnt suppose to be accurate but take them how u will.
OP
OP
gmoney243
2500 Club Member
found this online
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Yes, the SQ-120 (electric calibration) would be our best option for your application. These units are sealed and submersible up to 30m and are compatible with salt water. The SQ-100's are considered self-powered and will generate a mV output that you can measure with your voltmeter. We calibrate everything to a factor of 5.0 µmol/m2/s per mV, so just multiply your mV output by 5 to derive the photon flux value.
In regards to measuring LED's with the quantum sensor, there are some caveats to doing so. The following link shows the spectral response of our quantum sensor (Apogee Instruments Quantum Sensor - Spectral Response). As the graph shows, Apogee quantum sensors underweight blue light, and as a result, photon flux measurements for blue LEDs will be too low. They also overweight red light up to a wavelength of approximately 650 nm, above which they do not measure, and as a result, photon flux measurement for red LEDs will either be too high (if the LED output is all below 650 nm) or too low (if a non-negligible fraction of the LED output is above 650 nm). Additionally, LED's often have a very narrow spectral output, with a sharp peak of only a few nanometers. So, unless the quantum sensor has a perfectly flat spectral response, meaning it weights all wavelengths of light exactly the same, there will be errors. Electrically calibrated Apogee quantum sensors will likely provide a reasonable measurement for white LED's because they are broadband, and because electrically calibrated quantum sensors are calibrated under CWF lamps. However, for narrowband LEDs, like red and blue, Apogee quantum sensors will not provide an accurate measurement.
You can use the same spectral response graph (Apogee Instruments Quantum Sensor - Spectral Response) to get a relative idea of the error. For example, a 450nm blue LED will have a relative response of approximately 0.8. Therefore, you can figure that the photon flux reading from the sensor is probably reading approximately 20% low. Just remember, this approach is only relative so give yourself a wide margin of potential error. A blue/white configuration should give you reasonable accuracy, particularly from the broadband spectrum of the white.
Hopefully, that makes sense. Please let me know if there are any questions.
Regards,
Jacob Bingham
Applications Engineer
[email protected]
Apogee Instruments
721 W 1800 N Logan, UT 84321
ph: 435.792.4700 fax: 435.787.8268
-----------
Yes, the SQ-120 (electric calibration) would be our best option for your application. These units are sealed and submersible up to 30m and are compatible with salt water. The SQ-100's are considered self-powered and will generate a mV output that you can measure with your voltmeter. We calibrate everything to a factor of 5.0 µmol/m2/s per mV, so just multiply your mV output by 5 to derive the photon flux value.
In regards to measuring LED's with the quantum sensor, there are some caveats to doing so. The following link shows the spectral response of our quantum sensor (Apogee Instruments Quantum Sensor - Spectral Response). As the graph shows, Apogee quantum sensors underweight blue light, and as a result, photon flux measurements for blue LEDs will be too low. They also overweight red light up to a wavelength of approximately 650 nm, above which they do not measure, and as a result, photon flux measurement for red LEDs will either be too high (if the LED output is all below 650 nm) or too low (if a non-negligible fraction of the LED output is above 650 nm). Additionally, LED's often have a very narrow spectral output, with a sharp peak of only a few nanometers. So, unless the quantum sensor has a perfectly flat spectral response, meaning it weights all wavelengths of light exactly the same, there will be errors. Electrically calibrated Apogee quantum sensors will likely provide a reasonable measurement for white LED's because they are broadband, and because electrically calibrated quantum sensors are calibrated under CWF lamps. However, for narrowband LEDs, like red and blue, Apogee quantum sensors will not provide an accurate measurement.
You can use the same spectral response graph (Apogee Instruments Quantum Sensor - Spectral Response) to get a relative idea of the error. For example, a 450nm blue LED will have a relative response of approximately 0.8. Therefore, you can figure that the photon flux reading from the sensor is probably reading approximately 20% low. Just remember, this approach is only relative so give yourself a wide margin of potential error. A blue/white configuration should give you reasonable accuracy, particularly from the broadband spectrum of the white.
Hopefully, that makes sense. Please let me know if there are any questions.
Regards,
Jacob Bingham
Applications Engineer
[email protected]
Apogee Instruments
721 W 1800 N Logan, UT 84321
ph: 435.792.4700 fax: 435.787.8268
OP
OP
gmoney243
2500 Club Member
so basically this tells me that your reading are up to 20% low so my pars should be 150-180 and 400-480. if im reading correct and if this is correct info or w/e like i said take them how u will lol
pickupman66
5000 Club Member
Very interesting. I had read that the par meters don't measure led output well. That's alot of mumbo jumbo he was speaking. Was waiting to him to refer to a flux capacitor and time travel.
poolkeeper1
Valuable Member
If those readings are correct and he leaves them like that, I'll bet he will fry his coral in a matter of days as it happened to me with similar numbers that are way too high.
It needs to be more in the 300 or a little below 1/2 way down in the tank and 200 or below on the sandbed IME
Bill
