DIY - Cracked my frame board, scrap it?

[NancyFish]

Wood is 1x6 (so 3/4”) hickory .. everything is screwed and glued. I held a leg up so you can see where the four legs will be.

The sides and legs will also be attached to 1/2” plywood. Top will have 3/4” marine plywood. Bottom frame is same but only two middles, and has 1/2” plywood on both sides.

top frame is 38x19 holding a 36” tank 65g. Bottom frame is 38x22. The back will have overhang for plumbing

It cracked from screws but I decided to attach legs another way so that will only be glued going forward — unless it’s not safe.

 

[MnFish1]

So - it's easy to say 'keep it' - however - since you asked the question - I assume you doubt the integrity. In that case - 'scrap it' - start over. IMHO - its impossible to answer the question

 

[Chrisv.]

Wait the plan was to have a 65 gallon tank on 3/4" thick legs? Or am I missing something? If I understand correctly, that would be a concern to me.

Also the split wood, but the design to begin with.

 

[Reefering1]

The safe answer is replace that piece. Not a big deal to do now, and won't have to worry about it spreading or that corner sagging a few years down the road because you decided some wood glue and a few screws would be enough.
That said, spreading the gap and filling it with glue, then a couple screws should be fine. But its so easy to replace that piece that i wouldn't screw around with it

 

[Reefering1]

Wait the plan was to have a 65 gallon tank on 3/4" thick legs? Or am I missing something? If I understand correctly, that would be a concern to me.

Also the split wood, but the design to begin with.

I assume there would be a frame connecting the legs and plywood screwed into all parts to prevent racking. That's a big assume though. I decimated wouldn't have a stand on legs that aren't connected together

 

[NancyFish]

Wait the plan was to have a 65 gallon tank on 3/4" thick legs? Or am I missing something? If I understand correctly, that would be a concern to me.

Also the split wood, but the design to begin with.

The legs are 3/4”

Wait the plan was to have a 65 gallon tank on 3/4" thick legs? Or am I missing something? If I understand correctly, that would be a concern to me.

Also the split wood, but the design to begin with.

the plan was to have the tank on four 3/4” legs sandwiched between the top/bottom frames, which are all secured to 1/2” plywood sides.

I could double them up, but was going to wait and see how the weight test goes as I’ve seen people do bigger tanks on less (plywood ada style etc).

 

[NancyFish]

The crack looks shallow, I’m really on the fence about it. Main reason to scrap it is do it right. But then I worry about breaking my long boards which when then break all my other boards. Everything is screwed, glued with sawdust mix, then putty. And there’s a chance other boards have little cracks like that and I never saw them. I went with hickory for how strong it is but it seems a little temperamental.

I assume you doubt the integrity. In that case - 'scrap it' - start over. IMHO - its impossible to answer the question

 

[NancyFish]

The safe answer is replace that piece. Not a big deal to do now, and won't have to worry about it spreading or that corner sagging a few years down the road because you decided some wood glue and a few screws would be enough.
That said, spreading the gap and filling it with glue, then a couple screws should be fine. But its so easy to replace that piece that i wouldn't screw around with it

The only reason I didn’t jump on that is because I feel like the risk of cracking my long boards is higher than that corner cracking.. even though the corner cracking would be a bigger long term issue

I decided against screwing the legs in that position. Instead I’m going to align the top and bottom frame on their sides, and the legs in between and glue and screw all one side at once. So the legs will sit where they need for support avoid screwing in those corners directly

I bought a long enough clamp for this. My original problem was I didn’t have a clamp long enough for the legs and my screws kept spreading.

 

[MnFish1]

The crack looks shallow, I’m really on the fence about it. Main reason to scrap it is do it right. But then I worry about breaking my long boards which when then break all my other boards. Everything is screwed, glued with sawdust mix, then putty. And there’s a chance other boards have little cracks like that and I never saw them. I went with hickory for how strong it is but it seems a little temperamental.

If you re-read your response - you already know the best answer is 'start over'. Right? Perhaps I'm misreading

 

[twentyleagues]

Wait the plan was to have a 65 gallon tank on 3/4" thick legs? Or am I missing something? If I understand correctly, that would be a concern to me.

Also the split wood, but the design to begin with.

My 180 is on a 3/4 hardwood ply stand. I didnt build it I bought it from a carpenter that build them for my lfs. I dont trust my abilities to do something like this.

 

[NancyFish]

My 180 is on a 3/4 hardwood ply stand. I didnt build it I bought it from a carpenter that build them for my lfs. I dont trust my abilities to do something like this.

That’s a massive tank, I would trust a carpenter with that build. I went with the Minimal frame because I wouldn’t try myself with just plywood either

 

[twentyleagues]

That’s a massive tank, I would trust a carpenter with that build. I went with the Minimal frame because I wouldn’t try myself with just plywood either

I use 2x4 and 2x6 in all the tank stands I build, I trust those and my ability to build them correctly. They look like garbage....well not garbage but nowhere near as nice as the ply stand and canopy on the 180.

 

[Reefering1]

The crack looks shallow, I’m really on the fence about it. Main reason to scrap it is do it right. But then I worry about breaking my long boards which when then break all my other boards. Everything is screwed, glued with sawdust mix, then putty. And there’s a chance other boards have little cracks like that and I never saw them. I went with hickory for how strong it is but it seems a little temperamental.

The wood was a fine choice. The mistake was not pre-drilling the holes before running screws into it. Especially going into the end of the board

 

[Reefering1]

To be honest, if it were mine and only holding a 65g tank, I would glue/clamp and screw it together with another board behind it. But I tend to take risks and cannot recommend that for somebody who may not have the eye to recognize the signs of failure before catastrophy. It might cost less to start over now than it will later. if it fails, the consequential damage will far out weigh the loss now. That's on top of the potential loss of life of the critters housed within.

 

[Red_Beard]

Spread it open a bit more, hose it down with glue, let it migrate deep down the crack then clamp it overnight. Good as new. The glued joint will be stronger than the actual wood grain after that. But, when you do get ready to re-do the screws.... pre-drill it. Where that wood is split is not going to have the load of the tank forcing it apart, but pushing down on it. If you are going to wrap the stand, even better. That hickory is tough.

but, if your little voice keeps bugging you about it, redo it. you could at least use the split piece as scrap block elsewhere.

 

[whammack]

I have been a wood worker for a long time get some glue down in the cracks. Use a putting knife to force it down in there. Clamp it and wait 24 hours. This is over kill for your tank ( a good thing) so just keep going, it will be fine.

 

[whammack]

Also make sure you always pre drill your holes on hardwood of any kind. You can look on Google for what size bit for the screws you are using. Make sure you seal your frame before you add the plywood.

 

[whammack]

If you use laquer to seal the wood, you can coat your plywood and on the last coat leave it wet. When you add the wet plywood to the frame the laquer will reactivate the laquer on the frame. When they both dry they will seal together

 

[NancyFish]

The wood was a fine choice. The mistake was not pre-drilling the holes before running screws into it. Especially going into the end of the board

I attempted with pocket screws — so it was kinda predrilled.. pocket holes were a terrible idea for heavy wood legs without support of the botttom frame yet, which made me reevaluate

I have been a wood worker for a long time get some glue down in the cracks. Use a putting knife to force it down in there. Clamp it and wait 24 hours. This is over kill for your tank ( a good thing) so just keep going, it will be fine.

Do you think adding wooden gussets in that top frame corners will make a significant difference? I’m trying to avoid losing more interior floor space.

And most of it was done with pocket screws, so I thought that was refilling enough to prevent this with the pocket hold trim screws. I got a countersink drill bit to screw directly into the plywood to be safe to.

Also I didn’t seal the wood, I was going to glue up the every piece of wood that touches another wood then prime it and paint after. Would lacquer be better than titebond iii?

I’m trying to stop over thinking my it because if I don’t get my plywoods on I’m worried they’ll bow, was hoping to be done today until I saw that.

 

[whammack]

Gusset are never a bad idea. If you are painting it that is considered sealing it. So no need for laquer ( i love the look of wood so I automatically think of leaving the wood look ) the glue and paint will be fine. Hardwood will almost always crack if not pre drilled. Softwood would have had a better chance but it's softwood lol.