DIY level indicator

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Chbix

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So I am using 2 32g brutes stacked in a DIY mixing station (see attached photo) and have found a flaw. The only reliable way to see how much water is in the top container is to get the ladder, open the top and look down. I have seen other designs that used some uni seals, a clear tube and some fittings, but as this is sitting in my office on hardwood floors, I dont want another potential leak source. So I have been thinking how can i accurately determine at a glance how much water is in the freshwater/ATO container. Here is what I have come up with and I would like your thoughts.

Take a piece of PVC pipe, thinking 1/2" or maybe 3/4" as I think I have some sitting around. Mount it vertically inside the top container, either to the side wall or maybe to the lid, havent decided what would be best but it will need to either have holes or be above the bottom as to allow the water inside. Then get an acrylic rod and attach a reef safe boyant material (since its going in my top off water and the water I used to make water change water). If I put the acrylic rod inside the pvc tube with the boyant material at the bottom, and drilled a hold into the lid of the brute container, the acrylic rod would be elevated out of the top of the container as the water level went up and down. This is kinda what I am thinking

1608433197284.png

Black box is the trash can, red box is the PVC tube and the blue line is the Acrylic rod. As long as the material I get will float with the weight of the rod then I should be good to go. Any idea what material to use for the float? fishing bobber?

IMG_2233.JPG
 
Your design concept is solid. It's commonly referred to as a "float gauge".
You could use a piece of thin wall plastic tubing with the bottom end sealed as your float.
 
You mean instead of an acrylic rod ? thats an idea.
Yes
IIRC Lowes and Home Depot carry a thin wall PVC tubing that is a slip fit into the next size standard PVC. You'll have to make your own plug for the end, but that shouldn't be too difficult. Some PVC cement and you're GTG!
 
Don't forget to "test float" your setup before you mark the float tube for height increments. You could do all the calculations to determine exactly how much water must be displaced before the weight of the tubing is overcome and balances to neutral buoyancy. Or you could just float the thing and measure zero(0) starting point.
:)

1608435434524.png


Or tap on the side ???
:rolleyes::D
 
I made a sight glass I made out of clear acrylic tube with a couple pvc fittings and bulkheads or uniseals. Attached to side of brute cans.

I have a photo about half way down the page of the next link
 
Uniseals, like you use for RO/DI. One at the top and one at the bottom connected by clear tubing = sight glass.
 
The problem of floating rod is the space it need on top of the bucket. It basically need to same height of the bucket to show the full range of depth. Unless you have a high ceiling, there's probably not enough room up there.
 
You could also do a siphon, but instead of a u-shape, you make a s-shape. Then you have the outside tube with no holes in the bucket.
 
just an example - you might have a local sporting goods shop with a good selection.
Might not have enough overhead room for full extension, but you'll be able to tell when the level is low. I considered the same thing, but I tend to spray things in my garage, so I didn't want to have an open top to let in paint fumes/degreaser/bug spray/break cleaner/shellac...........so for now I use a flashlight to shine through the wall (I have white containers). Since you are inside though, this should be fine. Reminds me, I need one for my ATO container.
 
This is why I dislike brutes. Translucent poly tanks allow you to see the level. A quick glance and you know where the level is.
 
I have one 20g poly tank - I got a good deal on it, $25 vs >$60 retail. And I have a few brutes, just shy of 20g that I can buy anyday around the corner for $20. I agree the drum is easier to see through. The square-ish brutes make more efficient use of my space than the cylindrical container, but I did have to make a small frame to help them keep their shape so my plumbing wouldn't strain. The pros of seeing through it easier did not, for me, outweigh the cost and space considerations. Other folks have other priorities - and if you need larger volumes, square containers fall short. Thank god there's not one recipe, or this would be terribly boring.
 
Get two 1/4" bulkhead fittings that take RODI tubing and two 90 degree fittings like these but 1/4". Drill you container near the top and bottom, install a bulkhead in each. The install the 90 with clear RODI tubing between them.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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