Got it. Would that mean a short?Yep, saw that. I get over 200 mV. That’s where my question stems from.
I'd ask an engineer about that.
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Got it. Would that mean a short?Yep, saw that. I get over 200 mV. That’s where my question stems from.
There shouldn't be that much variation from sensor to sensor I should think.They say multiply the number by 5 to get PAR. I get 1200 mV. I’m not putting out 6000 par.
I wish I knew one.... oh wait!Got it. Would that mean a short?
I'd ask an engineer about that.
definitely not a short. It changes with light. This sensor came from a complete unit. It isn’t a standalone. They make multiple voltage versions of the sensor. This could be a 5V version. I was hoping someone would know.There shouldn't be that much variation from sensor to sensor I should think.
Haha. Might be easier to call themI wish I knew one.... oh wait!definitely not a short. It changes with light.
This sensor came from a complete unit. It isn’t a standalone. They make multiple voltage versions of the sensor. This could be a 5V version. I was hoping someone would know.
Thanks. Welcome to R2RHi...i am a new user here. As per my knowledge with duct tape howerever, do the lux par. Do the par meter. See what the number is.Use the par meter in the dark to insure it zeroes.Compare the par meter reading to a 1:1 ratio at full with your light with the Lux meter and compare to the par specs from the manufacturer at the same distance.60btw is the average constant I've found at 1:1 with most all lights.
Thanks. You can submerge them (unpowered) in rubbing alcohol to get the funk off. Several parts rusted off, so there's no cleaning that will help them.This has nothing to do with what you asked, but I thought I would throw it in. I have had some luck with taking electronics that found their way into my tank and giving them a good washing in rodi and a thorough drying. Its brought a few things back to life. A lot of this stuff the water doesn't hurt but the salt that get left behind won't allow it to work correctly.

