DIY Radeon clone?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Kampo
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Thus happens when an led driver is not withon its voltage efficient voltage range, look up the data sheet for the driver. It will list its peak efficiency, which does have an effect on dimming. I usually see this when a channel is running above its efficiency range, the led driver doesnt know how to compensate.
yup the psu was dropping voltage as it got closer to its peak (cheap chinese unit) the channel that went out was the one pulling the most voltage (45 needed to run at the ma raiting im running it at) so that makes sence that one wouldn't go. once I added a second psu to power half the ldds it runs fine. going to get a decent 250 watt meanwell unit to replace the 2 150/180 watt psus i'm using now
 
ok got it over my 20 and now that its working this is my first fully adjustable led spectrum setup. to my amazement i'm starting to buy into the whole you don't need white anymore argument. right now i'm REALLY liking the look of just Violet, Royal Blue, and Mint. nothing else running. its a bit "blue" but its whiter than I thought it would be.

Just RB/Violet/Mint

Limes and Mints are both phosphor LEDs, just a different effect than the normal white phosphor. Not surprised.
 
I would like one or two of those arrays for sure.
sounds like they want 32 shipped for it. and i was wrong it was a 4x4 board

8x450nm on 1 and 4
2x4k, 495nm and 470nm on 2
2x395nm 2x420nm on 3

for the money the board i just used I think is the better buy. but this would be nice since it can be fit in a tighter package. debating what i'm going to do for my frag setup now. I have 2 Blue Acro half Pucs I could just go with. planning on a 20Long frag tank i think 2 pucs should be good. I have 2 12v actnic suppliment bars I might just add to the fixture to give a little more boost. that said i'm super tempted to get a puc like above to build a nano light for work, giving me 3 blue acro pucs for the frag tank
 
sounds like they want 32 shipped for it. and i was wrong it was a 4x4 board

8x450nm on 1 and 4
2x4k, 495nm and 470nm on 2
2x395nm 2x420nm on 3

for the money the board i just used I think is the better buy. but this would be nice since it can be fit in a tighter package. debating what i'm going to do for my frag setup now. I have 2 Blue Acro half Pucs I could just go with. planning on a 20Long frag tank i think 2 pucs should be good. I have 2 12v actnic suppliment bars I might just add to the fixture to give a little more boost. that said i'm super tempted to get a puc like above to build a nano light for work, giving me 3 blue acro pucs for the frag tank
Kampo I went on topledlight.com they have all kinds of boards I don't know what would be a good mix could you take a look and give me idea witch one would be best
 
Kampo I went on topledlight.com they have all kinds of boards I don't know what would be a good mix could you take a look and give me idea witch one would be best
I really don't want to just recomend something becauase there are so many ways to go, pros and cons to all of them. options to look at:

2xAcroStrip LED - 14k Pro or 20k Pro strips from acrostar (less leds but better leds, can be run a bit harder, whites and having mint on the board are a big bennifit here. prolly a bit less punch for your money
2x 10 led boards from a company like topledlight.com or led-world2007 off ebay and have them do something like 4x450nm 1x470nm 1x495nm 2x420nm 1x395nm 1x4000k (if you like a more 14k look maybe one more 4000k and one less 420nm)

both above options with drivers, heat sink and misc without control are in the 80-100 range. then add control on top of that.
 
so lets say you want to build a fixture say 2 arrays on a good heat sink and down the road you decide to get a bigger tank and want to use that fixture but since the tank is much bigger you would need 3 more like the one you got how do you build the fixture to expand how do you tie your controller to run them all how much can one driver board run and what about psu would you need multiple psu
 
I just received my Seneye Reef and did a quick par of the lights I have over my tank. I'll have to use a laptop since while the USB cable is pretty long I wasn't really in a position to measure the whole tank let alone reach the bottom. My tank is 210 gallons at 54" wide 30" tall and 30" deep currently lit up using 4 of the Blue Acro 20k pros with a pair of Rapid LED Borealis that are no longer made. I have another four blue acro's that I've not set up and will be working to bring online within the next month or so.

Having said that and knowing I just used a rubber band to hold the Seneye on a stick the top of my tank was pushing well over 500 par, middle of the tank was 319. I really couldn't get any lower. I moved the device towards the middle of the tank whereas I don't have the blue acro's or really anything - it just gets the spill - and it was 180 - 200 in the middle. This is the one thing I wanted to flesh out by using one contiguous heat sink bar and even space out the acrostars.

Anyway these chips are pretty intense when using the lens. Going to see if I can spend some time this weekend and take better measurements so I can do a before and after once I bring the others online. Side note - Seneye is pretty cool little gadget all things considered.
 
Does anyone have any thoughts what lumen output would be needed to create light beams in the water with some surface agitation? I was looking at the Cree 30W-100W LEDs as a point light source to create the effect. I just don't want to harm any corals.
 
Does anyone have any thoughts what lumen output would be needed to create light beams in the water with some surface agitation? I was looking at the Cree 30W-100W LEDs as a point light source to create the effect. I just don't want to harm any corals.
High wattage LED coming from one point will likely burn what ever they are focused on, the safes way to create the singke ppint effect is ti have all the leds under one single wide angle lense... like kessil or some of the knock offs out there. There is a new thread on black box leds, the last one posted k7 led.
 
High wattage LED coming from one point will likely burn what ever they are focused on, the safes way to create the singke ppint effect is ti have all the leds under one single wide angle lense... like kessil or some of the knock offs out there. There is a new thread on black box leds, the last one posted k7 led.
That was my concern. That's why I was looking at mounting the high wattage LED in something like this.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/20W-30W-60...952074?hash=item1c9ae7934a:g:7xwAAOSwbtNaMKCR
Which, admittedly, has a focusing lens, but I can't imagine it would be too hard to buy a wide angle lens to fit.
 
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That was my concern. That's why I was looking at mounting the high wattage LED in something like this.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/20W-30W-60...952074?hash=item1c9ae7934a:g:7xwAAOSwbtNaMKCR
Which, admittedly, has a focusing lens, but I can't imagine it would be too hard to buy a wide angle lens to fit.
The leds are at thier widest angle with no lense. Its rare to find a 60mm wide angle lense 120 degree minimum, as most 60mm lenses are focused on automotive use. Im pretty sure if you do enough digging you will find one.
 
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Working on the morning. Not perfect yet but I'll clean it up a bit more wanted to see if this would work before I bought some hardware to mount it better. Doing a test at 80percent power with both fans now.

Only downside of this is its a bit lower than I'd like and its about 1.5 inches further back from true center. I think this will be ok. most rock work is in the back of the tank. sandbed is usually lower light stuff. but not sure.

IMG_20181209_110821.jpg


wider picture for scale. yeah it messed with my camera sensor BAD
AZOlw0m77YhIoHN2L1UUqGiEHGSz-QztnpG-DGnAcJvS71Minf0O7Y3Vkff72-x8cUffUbpIiCh9F60XbHWcKloYQSkgA0d_tRomc-kzV3Br0pb3vZiPvnF35xqbrpt8brgyQ2vS7C8ZYuRtGszeBv129rw_UtiDKrWBXkHsf59qQ2eSvMmfRYM2snBHaxaylLKxiVdJbTMFt7EzPlD8jJMNvBsMxcs6NF1hCratO8_tXm8QKg3IMWAS4N7kbMi7C8N3lvs1mpoewVAe_wvEjhfID4WMiAvxsT5vbMFmqXC-lRz7od0k01pAIv-Q8je53TTdfI2sk-aRGprVWqISAkFHGMNYaT-h2xozwmA1T1coG4GDRBR1GzFB9kuV_olpOzSu6EDe8viDInD2JBie9tyYM3N63FSprzlOabLmRUZ-sga2EBjPFVMKaETmT4fZDJoTH-Sm7m1i7MSbL8ZDXh6Ia1gG2F8OTakJbQP_7suVAUBC2TwBEuqIsuOnc7rBG-QIAx5WZsFflZJMW8vOD1etmLPhRX7N6LUxDRY0sUA5Cekv_0k9TukKIpJiwmrW0PK5x24QISTSCDIBKqTTJwzoeQsLr1y4jiwet3xa7BJj3a2HdpDvDaUoZj6wgZaFHTwam1HxT0RNGiipv35K2u_oqg=w1443-h1923-no
 
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Working on the morning. Not perfect yet but I'll clean it up a bit more wanted to see if this would work before I bought some hardware to mount it better. Doing a test at 80percent power with both fans now.

Only downside of this is its a bit lower than I'd like and its about 1.5 inches further back from true center. I think this will be ok. most rock work is in the back of the tank. sandbed is usually lower light stuff. but not sure.

IMG_20181209_110821.jpg


wider picture for scale. yeah it messed with my camera sensor BAD
AZOlw0m77YhIoHN2L1UUqGiEHGSz-QztnpG-DGnAcJvS71Minf0O7Y3Vkff72-x8cUffUbpIiCh9F60XbHWcKloYQSkgA0d_tRomc-kzV3Br0pb3vZiPvnF35xqbrpt8brgyQ2vS7C8ZYuRtGszeBv129rw_UtiDKrWBXkHsf59qQ2eSvMmfRYM2snBHaxaylLKxiVdJbTMFt7EzPlD8jJMNvBsMxcs6NF1hCratO8_tXm8QKg3IMWAS4N7kbMi7C8N3lvs1mpoewVAe_wvEjhfID4WMiAvxsT5vbMFmqXC-lRz7od0k01pAIv-Q8je53TTdfI2sk-aRGprVWqISAkFHGMNYaT-h2xozwmA1T1coG4GDRBR1GzFB9kuV_olpOzSu6EDe8viDInD2JBie9tyYM3N63FSprzlOabLmRUZ-sga2EBjPFVMKaETmT4fZDJoTH-Sm7m1i7MSbL8ZDXh6Ia1gG2F8OTakJbQP_7suVAUBC2TwBEuqIsuOnc7rBG-QIAx5WZsFflZJMW8vOD1etmLPhRX7N6LUxDRY0sUA5Cekv_0k9TukKIpJiwmrW0PK5x24QISTSCDIBKqTTJwzoeQsLr1y4jiwet3xa7BJj3a2HdpDvDaUoZj6wgZaFHTwam1HxT0RNGiipv35K2u_oqg=w1443-h1923-no


So how do they compare to the name brand lights
 
So how do they compare to the name brand lights
I would say since i've personally never had anything but DIY over MY tanks I'm not the best to ask. I would say spectrum wise equal to better than any name brand. easy of use prolly better than some worse than others. I don't have any real testing to base my spectrums arround so i'm just guessing. i'm going to see if I can borrow a par meter before I really get this tank going and dial it in a bit better. that said. I noticed a lot of corals perking up under the increased light when this was over my 20 cube. that tank is back to its old light for now.

very pleased with the build overall. will continue to update as my build continues. I really need to get the plumbing done so I can move forward.
 
I would say since i've personally never had anything but DIY over MY tanks I'm not the best to ask. I would say spectrum wise equal to better than any name brand. easy of use prolly better than some worse than others. I don't have any real testing to base my spectrums arround so i'm just guessing. i'm going to see if I can borrow a par meter before I really get this tank going and dial it in a bit better. that said. I noticed a lot of corals perking up under the increased light when this was over my 20 cube. that tank is back to its old light for now.

very pleased with the build overall. will continue to update as my build continues. I really need to get the plumbing done so I can move forward.
Any update on your light?
 

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