DIY Radeon clone?

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So, I'm looking at this board. The blues draw 1.5 peak amps. The Mean Well LDD puts out at most 1.5 amps. Is there enough power two drive two of these in series off a Mean Well LDD? I get that full power would probably burn out any corals but is 750ma enough?
 
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So, I'm looking at this board. The blues draw 1.5 peak amps. The Mean Well LDD puts out at most 1.5 amps. Is there enough power two drive two of these in series off a Mean Well LDD? I get that full power would probably burn out any corals but is 750ma enough?

If wired in series you as voltage not divide amps. So for 2 in series you would need 5 Ldd.

395 - 600
450- 1400
420- 600 (says 1amp but don't think there are any Chinese 420s that take more than 600
480 1000
White 600

That's how I wired mine
 
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If wired in series you as voltage not divide amps. So for 2 in series you would need 5 Ldd.

395 - 600
450- 1400
420- 600 (says 1amp but don't think there are any Chinese 420s that take more than 600
480 1000
White 600

That's how I wired mine
Whoops! Basic physics fail. ;Eggonface
 
I bought this 2pcs,colors are radion g4 clone best led sequence for corals. Still on ship
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/cVaIxpJS

this is for 5 channel wifi control and day similation
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/ce36yhhQ

I will wire them with 24v 5a adapter without ldd or led driver. My friend did this just like this and doesnt have any problem.

Sorry for bad english. I will post my light after assambled.
 
Sorry to inform you but you can't use that controller (well you can but not how you are suggesting) to power constant current LEDs.

Constant current LEDs need a driver to moderate voltage. Even being 1 volt off specs can mean giving a led thats raited for 600mah 2+ Amps they will be very bright for a short time.
 
I will use 24v 5a power supply
Sorry to inform you but you can't use that controller (well you can but not how you are suggesting) to power constant current LEDs.

Constant current LEDs need a driver to moderate voltage. Even being 1 volt off specs can mean giving a led thats raited for 600mah 2+ Amps they will be very bright for a short time.
my friend did just like this with 24v 5a power supply and its working without any problem. Yes better with cureent limiter, but you can run without 2,3 year with good cooling.
 
I will use 24v 5a power supply

my friend did just like this with 24v 5a power supply and its working without any problem. Yes better with cureent limiter, but you can run without 2,3 year with good cooling.


the problem comes because the cree diodes on that board need about 3.1-3.2V (depending on binning to be in spec) so say for the blue channels you will need 24.8-25.6V to be in spec. the Violets need 3.5-3.6 per diode so each channel needs 28-28.6V to run at spec (I doubt they even light at 24 volts) the white channel is even worse needing 33-34V to run at spec, and proubly won't light at 24V.

if you run them in paralell you are running them massively over volt and will burn out almost instantly. Your free to try it, and sounds like your convinced you will, but posting this so others don't see this as a good idea and copy you.
 
If wired in series you as voltage not divide amps. So for 2 in series you would need 5 Ldd.

395 - 600
450- 1400
420- 600 (says 1amp but don't think there are any Chinese 420s that take more than 600
480 1000
White 600

That's how I wired mine
@Kampo, it just occurred to me, looking at these (I'm not super experienced with LEDs though I get the concept). These will require a CV driver, right? The drivers I was about to order were LDD CC drivers but these LEDs take a fixed voltage... or am I misreading/understanding something?
 
@Kampo, it just occurred to me, looking at these (I'm not super experienced with LEDs though I get the concept). These will require a CV driver, right? The drivers I was about to order were LDD CC drivers but these LEDs take a fixed voltage... or am I misreading/understanding something?


Constant current. But you can look up the specs to know roughly what voltage they will be at a certain current.

constant current driver basically just ramps up voltage to a led chain until it's running at it's set current.
 
Constant current. But you can look up the specs to know roughly what voltage they will be at a certain current.

constant current driver basically just ramps up voltage to a led chain until it's running at it's set current.

So, on the eBay page it lists the LED as taking one voltage and a range of current. This is likely my ignorance on LEDs I'm confused why that would be a constant current LED.
 
chinese sellers like to list a voltage that should work, but isn't optimal to drive them that way. if you look up the data sheets for the individual diodes you get a better idea of what the voltage is at certain currents. generally the better quality diode the lower voltage. semileds are 3.5-3.6 for raited current Cree stuff is 3.1-3.3 lluxeon 2.8ish
 
I see a lot of talk about drivers and arrays but does anyone have any advice for power supplies? I ended up settling on the 5 channel custom cree arrays. I bought 4 but will probably need 6-8 for a 480 gal tank with each one able to draw 5 amps. I'm having trouble figuring out what power supply would be able to meet my longterm needs
 
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I highly doubt (without resorting to something commercial) that one power supply will do it.

I would probably do no more than 3 or 4 on one supply and that is pushing it.

Plus, the more power supplies you use, the less you have to worry about one goes out, they all go out scenario.
 
I see a lot of talk about drivers and arrays but does anyone have any advice for power supplies? I ended up settling on the 5 channel custom cree arrays. I bought 4 but will probably need 6-8 for a 480 gal tank with each one able to draw 5 amps. I'm having trouble figuring out what power supply would be able to meet my longterm needs

Each puck is only 60W (assuming not blowing everything to 100%), so a pair or trio of the 240W or 320W Meanwell HLG series is my recommendation

https://www.meanwell.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=hlg-240h

They are weather sealed and fanless. Works great as a CV power supply.
 
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Sorry to inform you but you can't use that controller (well you can but not how you are suggesting) to power constant current LEDs.

Constant current LEDs need a driver to moderate voltage. Even being 1 volt off specs can mean giving a led thats raited for 600mah 2+ Amps they will be very bright for a short time.

Not so difficult you just need a 12V Buck Converter(or 24v) for powering the TC421(or TC420)
and connect the controller channels to PWM @ LDD Drivers
look @ tc420.net
TC420-High-Power-LED-Circuit.png


TC421 is one of the cheapest controllers... 4 a reefing newbie like me ^^
 
I purchased a RBTA from a gentleman that used Radion gen 3’s over his tanks. The way the anemone looks was amazing. See picture. See the glow! 14EC6DBA-166A-4A47-92C3-0F6DCDD061C8.jpeg
Now I am using .viparspectra boxes over my tank and it looks totally different. I would like to know if these boards provide that glow like in the photo.
 
What do you think about 60° or 90° Honeycomb Lens form topledlight?
Or does the Wide Angle TIR Lense Kit fit the round 120mm or square 100mm PCB?

It might be better to build a Diffuser like the name Brands do it... or?
P-CC looses only 20% with Diffuser but the light spreading is much better... T5 like or?

All so i would like to be able to drive @ max & dim them down...
The XP-G3 (2-3°C/W) with 2A there is no LDD Driver :( they sound nice with Overpowering :D
I found a power test @ German Forum they took 16,6 A & 5,42 V ~90Watt for 10Sek! ;Spiderman "Sweet Spot 6 A (1622 lm @ 3,76 V / 1440 lm @ 85 °C Tsp)" ;Stig
https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/...mp-xp-g3-bin-s5-farbgruppe-e2-≈-5700-k.49228/

I all so think about ordering an empty Chinese 5 channel PCB, soldering paste & the 3535 SMD´s i want... soldering with a hot plate doesn't look so hard (never done it)...

Or the Type 3 (& maybe change some later)
http://www.topledlight.com/5-channe...m-led-aquarium-light-for-reef-tank_p2478.html
 
What do you think about 60° or 90° Honeycomb Lens form topledlight?
Or does the Wide Angle TIR Lense Kit fit the round 120mm or square 100mm PCB?

It might be better to build a Diffuser like the name Brands do it... or?
P-CC looses only 20% with Diffuser but the light spreading is much better... T5 like or?

All so i would like to be able to drive @ max & dim them down...
The XP-G3 (2-3°C/W) with 2A there is no LDD Driver :( they sound nice with Overpowering :D
I found a power test @ German Forum they took 16,6 A & 5,42 V ~90Watt for 10Sek! ;Spiderman "Sweet Spot 6 A (1622 lm @ 3,76 V / 1440 lm @ 85 °C Tsp)" ;Stig
https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/threads/led-test-cree-xlamp-xp-g3-bin-s5-farbgruppe-e2-≈-5700-k.49228/

I all so think about ordering an empty Chinese 5 channel PCB, soldering paste & the 3535 SMD´s i want... soldering with a hot plate doesn't look so hard (never done it)...

Or the Type 3 (& maybe change some later)
http://www.topledlight.com/5-channe...m-led-aquarium-light-for-reef-tank_p2478.html


Soldering with a hot plate is not difficult. I personally like soldering these star boards with hot air. Just heat the bottom side of the board up. Basically same thing that soldering with a hot plate does.
 

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