DIY Reef Light HELP

[mk_reefs]

I'm making my own Diy reef light, more so to see if I can do something for a certain goal I would like to achieve.

I have a PCB board with 6, 3w LEDs in series.
I got my driver's in they are 3-20v constant current drivers 300mA. They run the lights fine but just not as bright as 6, 3w LEDs should be.

Could it possibly be a wattage thing?

I have new drivers coming. The new ones are 18-36v 12-18w 600mA.

LEDs are made by Chazon, if the spelling is correct as well as the driver's, I was reading they are the same LEDs used in the black boxes.

 

[ISpeakForTheSeas]

I know nothing about electronics - so I can't help you there - but I'm happy to bump your thread and see if we can't find someone who can help. Also, you may or may not get more results if you post this question in the Aquarium Lighting forum (I honestly don't know if you will or not, but it may be worth a shot).

Aquarium Lighting

Discuss all topics pertaining to aquarium lighting. LED, Metal Halide, T5 etc.

www.reef2reef.com

Good luck, and welcome to Reef2Reef!

 

[mk_reefs]

Thank you still haven't figured out this site yet!

 

[dansyr]

Hi! Sounds like a driver strength issue, no driver is 100% efficient so you might be getting 1-20% less depending on the specifics of your setup. To check, if you have a multimeter you can measure the voltage drop across the LED side of the driver (should be just about 6 * 3.3v = 19.8v if these are the LEDs I'm thinking about). Or, if you can, drop the 6th LED from the circuit and check if the math works out better (or it gets a lot brighter, if you don't have multimeter). If it does, that's a sign your driver just can't put out enough.

It could also be a weak solder joint, much less likely but when doing long runs I've done that.

 

[Amphibious Wallet]

Assuming the forward voltage is 3v, they'll be rated for 1000mA in order to be a 3W LED. 3V x 1A = 3W.

3V - 20V @ 300mA = 0.9W - 6W. There is flexibility in the voltage meaning you can run 1 LED or 6 off this unit, but constant current drivers are exactly that and that driver is limited to putting out 6W in any configuration.
You're running 6x LED's for a forward voltage of about 20V and they're only getting 300mA each. Not a bad thing entirely, as LED's are more efficient at lower loads, but you'll be limited to 6W output with that driver.

 

[mk_reefs]

 

[mk_reefs]

That's what I'm working with and those are the new drivers I ordered. I just mocked it up over my 8 gallon but this will be going on my 20 gallon waterbox. The new drivers say they are rated for 12-18w which should be what I need and then add an inline dimmer.

 

[dansyr]

The new drivers should be substantially better, but I suspect not maximum depending on what your expectations are. Mostly, because these might be nominally 0.7A LEDs if they're 3w, sorry I missed the 3w part earlier . They will likely be slightly dimmer than maximum brightness but practically close.

For some context, LEDs usually have spec sheets from manufacturers listing the properties at different voltages and current. So there is usually a maximum amount of current you can pump through (in this case likely slightly below 1A) and this is usually where the name comes from. But there is also a minimum number and the "rated" current which is the current they used when measuring for numbers for lumens/watt. So for example, a generic Samsung LED gives you a "typ" number that is 6.08 V @ 0.64mA = ~4W = 720 lumens, as well as a "max" number of 6.4V @ 1A. And if you click on the datasheets, you'll see all the curves for output or consumption across different current, voltage, temperature. This is how you decide how hard you want to run your LEDs, which affects lifetime & energy efficiency. Rule of thumb, aim for 'typ' params as a starting point.

Sorry for the ramble, TL;DR, with these eBay LEDs we usually don't have the most reliable manufacturer data, so optimizing is hard. Don't get me wrong, I love cheap LEDs and have used them in several settings. But, it's difficult to know the true parameters so I suggest treating them like their optimum is somewhere in 600-700mA at ~3.3v (typical for most 3w LEDs), and assume that if you're driving at more than 0.9A and getting the full wattage you're getting close to maxing out.

 

[Amphibious Wallet]

these eBay LEDs we usually don't have the most reliable manufacturer data, so optimizing is hard

If we even get a datasheet, accuracy of them notwithstanding lol.

I think OP is onto something in any case, getting a broader/wider compliment to the main unit that will no doubt help out with reflected light from the tanks walls.

 

[mk_reefs]

If we even get a datasheet, accuracy of them notwithstanding lol.

I think OP is onto something in any case, getting a broader/wider compliment to the main unit that will no doubt help out with reflected light from the tanks walls.

I'm just trying to experiment in the nano world, I just wanna reach places that the main light can't, and reef brites or any led bars won't fit my needs that I haven't found yet.. fun project though!

 

[Amphibious Wallet]

I'm just trying to experiment in the nano world, I just wanna reach places that the main light can't, and reef brites or any led bars won't fit my needs that I haven't found yet.. fun project though!

100%. Once I get a few goals out of the way before I throw my money down the marine rabbit hole I'll be doing the same thing. I feel that DIY and questionable spectrum LED fixtures are a little more forgiving for freshwater plants than they are marine.
I'd be interested to see how you feel they turn out on the 20 and if they achieved what you were looking for.

 

[Nonya]

I'm making my own Diy reef light, more so to see if I can do something for a certain goal I would like to achieve.

I have a PCB board with 6, 3w LEDs in series.
I got my driver's in they are 3-20v constant current drivers 300mA. They run the lights fine but just not as bright as 6, 3w LEDs should be.

Could it possibly be a wattage thing?

I have new drivers coming. The new ones are 18-36v 12-18w 600mA.

LEDs are made by Chazon, if the spelling is correct as well as the driver's, I was reading they are the same LEDs used in the black boxes.

So what amperage are the LEDs rated at? 300mW is awfully low in most cases.

 

[mk_reefs]

100%. Once I get a few goals out of the way before I throw my money down the marine rabbit hole I'll be doing the same thing. I feel that DIY and questionable spectrum LED fixtures are a little more forgiving for freshwater plants than they are marine.
I'd be interested to see how you feel they turn out on the 20 and if they achieved what you were looking for.

Mk_reefs on Instagram! Excited to get it up and running!

 

[mk_reefs]

So what amperage are the LEDs rated at? 300mW is awfully low in most cases.

 

[Amphibious Wallet]

Mk_reefs on Instagram! Excited to get it up and running!

Looking very nice there!

 

[Tavero]

I'm making my own Diy reef light, more so to see if I can do something for a certain goal I would like to achieve.

I have a PCB board with 6, 3w LEDs in series.
I got my driver's in they are 3-20v constant current drivers 300mA. They run the lights fine but just not as bright as 6, 3w LEDs should be.

Could it possibly be a wattage thing?

I have new drivers coming. The new ones are 18-36v 12-18w 600mA.

LEDs are made by Chazon, if the spelling is correct as well as the driver's, I was reading they are the same LEDs used in the black boxes.

You shouldn't run these junk chinese led chips at 100% power anyway.
They will overheat and burn out in under one year and give you terrible efficiency. No led chips have a linear efficiency power curve, but these chinese rejects are particulary bad.
I am using them too, but running mine at 30% power max. Just means i need more LEDs to reach the required par, but they are so cheap it doesn't matter.
Right now i am running 180 watts of leds at 40 Watts over 15 gallons.
You may want to look at meanwell drivers. They are dimmable.

 

[Nonya]

Package says they're intended for much higher amperage (400-700 milliamps) than the 300mA at which you're operating. You should be using drivers in the 400-700 range. A 500 mA driver will give you good brightness without coming close to overdriving them (overdriving = heat = shorter LED lifespan).

 

[dansyr]

100%. Once I get a few goals out of the way before I throw my money down the marine rabbit hole I'll be doing the same thing. I feel that DIY and questionable spectrum LED fixtures are a little more forgiving for freshwater plants than they are marine.
I'd be interested to see how you feel they turn out on the 20 and if they achieved what you were looking for.

If you haven't yet, you should check out steve's leds for name brand stuff at good prices currently.

 

[Tavero]

Package says they're intended for much higher amperage (400-700 milliamps) than the 300mA at which you're operating. You should be using drivers in the 400-700 range. A 500 mA driver will give you good brightness without coming close to overdriving them (overdriving = heat = shorter LED lifespan).

300 mA is the maximum he should run these chips at, actually. They are probably rejects and have bad efficiency, but he can counter that by running a lot parallel.

 

[Nonya]

You shouldn't run these junk chinese led chips at 100% power anyway.
They will overheat and burn out in under one year and give you terrible efficiency. No led chips have a linear efficiency power curve, but these chinese rejects are particulary bad.
I am using them too, but running mine at 30% power max. Just means i need more LEDs to reach the required par, but they are so cheap it doesn't matter.
Right now i am running 180 watts of leds at 40 Watts over 15 gallons.
You may want to look at meanwell drivers. They are dimmable.

Chinese or otherwise, I realize that most LED luminaires are overdriven, meaning shorter lifespan than the 50,000 hours they so freely advertise. I agree with you--I always run mine lower than 100%, and just use more LEDs to compensate.