DIY Screen Net Tops: Tips, Tricks, and Pics!

James Jordan · Feb 17, 2017

I have the clips. I have a glass cover right now. I literally just filled my tank and the glass is already fogged over and starting to precipitate. I imagine it will be encrusted with salt in a few days. It's going to look ugly.

Joeganja · Feb 17, 2017

James Jordan said:
I have the clips. I have a glass cover right now. I literally just filled my tank and the glass is already fogged over and starting to precipitate. I imagine it will be encrusted with salt in a few days. It's going to look ugly.

Especially if you want coral the light will reflect it.

Tonii · Feb 17, 2017

SharkLaser said:
I used my handheld wood router (dewalt 611 to be exact) and a couple of regular wood router bits to cut the frame. Picked up 0.22" sheet of acrylic from Lowes, did some measurements, made some router guides out of scrap plywood and cut two frames like this in about a day around Christmas break. 1/4" router bit to cut the frame and 1/8" bit for the spline groove. I also used 1-1/2" hole saw in a drill to cut rounded corners. The frame is 1-1/4" wide.

How deep did you do the spline groove?

Fence13 · Feb 17, 2017

I have my return pipes come up over the top and I learned from my 75g (in the first picture) that the back flaps don't go back nearly far enough and so I've still got the occasional fish jumping to their death. There are only three frames on the first picture, the white (4th) frame is removable and acts to hold the shape of the first three.

In the newer 93 cube I used the clips like Innovative Marine has to give my rimless a nice look. And I extended the netting further down the back this time. This has made it harder for fish to jump to their death. I use the magnet on my gyre to help hold it down.

jdog1989 · Feb 17, 2017

SharkLaser · Feb 17, 2017

Tonii said:
How deep did you do the spline groove?

Well, the bit was 1/8" and the spline is round, so I'd say may be a bit deeper than 1/8".

Redswine · Feb 17, 2017

Got the BRS kit and installed this 2 weeks ago. Super easy and the tank looks so much better. You could visibly see the difference right away from our glass lid. we tried going with no lid, loved the look, but one of our clowns jumped. Luckily it landed in the overflow. So this gives us the best of both worlds. Great light penetration and no jumpers.

Manny2reef · Feb 17, 2017

I did egg crate tops and covered the bottom of them with netting and attached the netting with clear wire ties on my 210.

MeshmeZ · Feb 18, 2017

here is my solution for screens on a eurobraced tank. I used "polycarbonate h jamb" in the size that matched my screen frame thickness. This is the stuff you use on frameless glass shower enclosures for the door to seal against. I was looking for a solution because I couldn't stand the idea of having this beautiful eurobraced tank and just having a screen sit on top. the screen sits flush with the top of the glass. The screen is the BRS stuff.

leejr · Feb 18, 2017

You can get the Netting kits at www.triggersfish.com for less, and they have more options and will do custom frame sizes if needed.

MayTiumph · Feb 18, 2017

A tip for working around HOB or wiring is to use cross stitch plastic fabric. This is a semi-stiff plastic sheet you can get at any craft store and is easily cut with scissors.

Jstn · Feb 18, 2017

It would of been interesting to look at how eggcrate compare

rtparty · Feb 18, 2017

leejr said:
You can get the Netting kits at www.triggersfish.com for less, and they have more options and will do custom frame sizes if needed.

Sorry to be blunt but that is literally one of the worst sites I've ever run across. Terrible grammar, unfinished pages and shady all around.

ChuzUThisDay · Feb 19, 2017

MayTiumph said:
A tip for working around HOB or wiring is to use cross stitch plastic fabric. This is a semi-stiff plastic sheet you can get at any craft store and is easily cut with scissors.

This looks great and is quite functional. How did you attach the mesh sheet to the frame?

Vanmo92 · Feb 20, 2017

I'd like to see more examples of how best to do an area to remove for feeding, without creating separate panels and the shadows that come with having the screen frame anywhere except around the perimeter. Maybe its possible to somehow hinge a section of it, don't know what I would use as hinges, something with zip-ties maybe?

nascar02 · Feb 20, 2017

Great video!! I left my top open for this very reason. I know now it's really a non factor.

mfinn · Feb 20, 2017

MeshmeZ said:
here is my solution for screens on a eurobraced tank. I used "polycarbonate h jamb" in the size that matched my screen frame thickness. This is the stuff you use on frameless glass shower enclosures for the door to seal against. I was looking for a solution because I couldn't stand the idea of having this beautiful eurobraced tank and just having a screen sit on top. the screen sits flush with the top of the glass. The screen is the BRS stuff.

I love this idea. I saw this on another website and looked for it. It's kind of pricey at Lowes for a large tank, but can be found online, doing a goggle search.

ChuzUThisDay · Feb 20, 2017

Vanmo92 said:
I'd like to see more examples of how best to do an area to remove for feeding, without creating separate panels and the shadows that come with having the screen frame anywhere except around the perimeter. Maybe its possible to somehow hinge a section of it, don't know what I would use as hinges, something with zip-ties maybe?

+1

MeshmeZ · Feb 20, 2017

mfinn said:
I love this idea. I saw this on another website and looked for it. It's kind of pricey at Lowes for a large tank, but can be found online, doing a goggle search.

I found a 90+" section of it online for around $25 shipped. also, i figured i would need it around a large part of the perimeter, but i ended up only needing it on either end (5 foot x 2 foot tank)