DIY Stand Lumber

[NEPAReefer]

I am currently getting ready to build a stand for a 90g with enough room underneath for a 30g sump. All the designs I see use regular lumber. Would there be any benefit to using pressure treated to try and prolong the life of the stand?
My guess would be to not use pressure treated in case the chemicals from the lumber get into the tank system somehow. Am I correct in assuming this?

 

[cromag27 Verified Sponsor]

Correct. even better, use strictly 3/4" plywood.

 

[NEPAReefer]

Correct. even better, use strictly 3/4" plywood.

I was going to frame it with 2x4's and 2x6's and then 1/4 or 1/2 plywood for the front, sides, and top to keep everything square.

 

[cromag27 Verified Sponsor]

Nah, just use 3/4" plywood and still keep it square. check out this recent thread that discusses plywood stands.

http://reef2reef.com/threads/difficulty-of-building-a-stand.278798/

 

[theblackpearl]

Even if you plan to stain the outside to make it furniture quality, paint the inside with waterproof paint to prolong the life of the stand

The chemicals make it not worth the risk for pressure treated wood

 

[NEPAReefer]

Nah, just use 3/4" plywood and still keep it square. check out this recent thread that discusses plywood stands.

http://reef2reef.com/threads/difficulty-of-building-a-stand.278798/

Thank you very much for the thread. What would you suggest if I cannot have a center brace going down the front of the stand due to the size of the sump I have?

Edit: I don't want to have to wrestle with the sump to get it in and out of the stand for cleaning and in case something was to happen that it would need to come out.

 

[NEPAReefer]

Even if you plan to stain the outside to make it furniture quality, paint the inside with waterproof paint to prolong the life of the stand

The chemicals make it not worth the risk for pressure treated wood

I was actually thinking the same thing. I was just curious about using pressure treated b/c I never see anyone suggest it.

 

[SteveM]

Need a rough sketch but either plywood or solid wood 6 or 8 inches on edge will have a minimal deflection from a point load and 0 deflection from a continuous 4' or 6' load

 

[cromag27 Verified Sponsor]

How long is your tank?

 

[redfishbluefish]

I would not, under any circumstances, use pressure treated wood.

1. It's typically sold "wet", and when it dries, it bends, twists, warps, bows, and turns every which way. I was on a job where we had a bunch of "wet" 2x4's delivered. By the time we worked through the pile, we had one that had dried out and a 200 pound man standing on this 2x4 couldn't straighten it out. Very unstable wood.
2. Wouldn't want any of the nasty chemicals leaching out.
3. Requires non-corrosive fasteners. I've seen 5/8 inch regular steel bolts totally gone after 2 years....oxidized to nothing.

Just buy dry standard dimensional lumber and coat it with a quality exterior paint and you'll be fine.

Now if you go the dimensional route, here's the standard plan. Note up to and including a four foot tank, all lumber is 2x4. Anything over four foot, the top boards are 2x6. No center brace needed.

And here's my stand frame for a five foot tank

I would suggest topping the stand with plywood (3/4) and skinning with something that will keep it from racking....again, plywood works just fine.

 

[NEPAReefer]

How long is your tank?

The tank is 48 x 19.

 

[NEPAReefer]

I would not, under any circumstances, use pressure treated wood.

1. It's typically sold "wet", and when it dries, it bends, twists, warps, bows, and turns every which way. I was on a job where we had a bunch of "wet" 2x4's delivered. By the time we worked through the pile, we had one that had dried out and a 200 pound man standing on this 2x4 couldn't straighten it out. Very unstable wood.
2. Wouldn't want any of the nasty chemicals leaching out.
3. Requires non-corrosive fasteners. I've seen 5/8 inch regular steel bolts totally gone after 2 years....oxidized to nothing.

Just buy dry standard dimensional lumber and coat it with a quality exterior paint and you'll be fine.

Now if you go the dimensional route, here's the standard plan. Note up to and including a four foot tank, all lumber is 2x4. Anything over four foot, the top boards are 2x6. No center brace needed.

And here's my stand frame for a five foot tank

I would suggest topping the stand with plywood (3/4) and skinning with something that will keep it from racking....again, plywood works just fine.

This is how I was thinking about doing it.
Thanks

 

[glb]

I would not, under any circumstances, use pressure treated wood.

1. It's typically sold "wet", and when it dries, it bends, twists, warps, bows, and turns every which way. I was on a job where we had a bunch of "wet" 2x4's delivered. By the time we worked through the pile, we had one that had dried out and a 200 pound man standing on this 2x4 couldn't straighten it out. Very unstable wood.
2. Wouldn't want any of the nasty chemicals leaching out.
3. Requires non-corrosive fasteners. I've seen 5/8 inch regular steel bolts totally gone after 2 years....oxidized to nothing.

Just buy dry standard dimensional lumber and coat it with a quality exterior paint and you'll be fine.

Now if you go the dimensional route, here's the standard plan. Note up to and including a four foot tank, all lumber is 2x4. Anything over four foot, the top boards are 2x6. No center brace needed.

And here's my stand frame for a five foot tank

I would suggest topping the stand with plywood (3/4) and skinning with something that will keep it from racking....again, plywood works just fine.

This is like a plan I used for my 40g breeder. I used 2x4's and that thing is solid as a rock. Make sure the stand is level. I painted the inside with Kilz waterproofing paint then enamel paint over that. Then I caulked all the wood seams with silicone. The bottom of the stand is totally waterproof. Good luck!