DIY Stand Question

ihavecrabs

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Tank: 60" x 30" x 20" (LxWxH)
Stand: 2x4 verticals and 2x6" horizontals carrying the load on end. No center brace. All sides are wrapped in 1/4" ply except back and top is wrapped in a two layer 1/2" ply (total of 1").

Question... will I have any deflection? I have a glass bottom tank with no rim. The manufacturer has provided a 1/8" foam pad for under the tank.

Thanks in advance!

#reefsquad
63ed1f2be1f29875231f15a9781ae31d.jpg
 
Picture shows only 1/2" on top. There will be another 1/2" glued and screwed on top that extends out an additional 4" on the front and side to carry a 4" bar top and rail. These will be supported by 45 degree brackets.

If I need to add a center support, I will. It will just rule out using the 50g rubbermaid for the sump.
 
You'll be fine Jon in my opinion. No center brace needed. If you're going to put another layer on top, just glue it no screws. My $.02.
 
Agree....so over built and therefore no center brace needed.

However, the one thing I don't like (if I see this correctly) is standard sheetrock butting up against the stand. I'd prefer to have greenboard over standard sheetrock that close to the tank.
 
I don't see any need for a center brace.

Not far from my 60" x 30" x 18" :)

A 4" surrounding 'shelf' probably won't need any support. My top gives me a 10" 'shelf' on 3 sides, it's simply a full size piece of cabinet grade oak ply, sealed and trimmed. Plenty strong.
 
Agree....so over built and therefore no center brace needed.

However, the one thing I don't like (if I see this correctly) is standard sheetrock butting up against the stand. I'd prefer to have greenboard over standard sheetrock that close to the tank.
I'm not worried about the sheetrock. It'll get a wood surround that will be sealed and any drywall is getting a coating of a paint sealer (acrylic and latex) made for outdoor decking or concrete.

The stand is only in place temporarily while that gets finished off [emoji4]
 
My .395 cent would be to add a 3/4 additional top and glue it with polysel not liquid nails. The 3/4 would make the top rigid and there would be no flex. I would also use a epoxy finish to seal the top from moisture. The weight is going to be on the corners and I would pull the 2x4 the you have from the top down about 12" and replace the 2x4 piece all the way down to the floor. By doing it this way you will really have strong corner down to the floor. :)
 
My .395 cent would be to add a 3/4 additional top and glue it with polysel not liquid nails. The 3/4 would make the top rigid and there would be no flex. I would also use a epoxy finish to seal the top from moisture. The weight is going to be on the corners and I would pull the 2x4 the you have from the top down about 12" and replace the 2x4 piece all the way down to the floor. By doing it this way you will really have strong corner down to the floor. :)
That small 2x4 at the top doesn't hit the top. It was a nailer to keep the 2x6 rubs attached to the two 2x4's in each corner.

This picture should show it before I wrapped it.

https://www.reef2reef.com/index.php?posts/4114957

I'll take that advice on the 3/4" top though.
 
Personally I feel like that 2x6 beam across the front is looking lonely. I don't have the engineering to back it up, but I'd feel better if you glue&screw 3/4" plywood to that face. Either one big piece and then cut out the opening or 1 horizontal and 2 verticals for a nicer visual. Construction adhesive and a couple of 2" lagging screws every 12" or so to sister the beam nicely.
Of course, this is from a guy who sistered a pair of 2x6s for a 48" tank...

new_stand-jpg.485512
 

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