I just built a stand for a 40 breeder. I used the basic diy plans. My question is the structural part of the stand is 35 7/8 in X 17 15/16. The over tank dimensions are 36 1/4 X 18 1/4. Will this small overhang be detrimental to the tank long term? I have some 1/4 plywood I can double up to make a top for the tank to sit on. I can move it forward and put just a small bit on the front trim pieces. Any suggestions, tips, opinions appreciated.
DIY stand question
- Thread starter dnott3
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Idoc
Getting lazier and lazier with upkeep!
Using a 1/2" top or better yet, 3/4" top, would better distribute the hang over pressure without giving any bend. Since it's a 40g tank, you'll probably get away with it.
Measure twice... cut once!!
Measure twice... cut once!!
Idoc
Getting lazier and lazier with upkeep!
Yes, I would make a top for it.
mickeysreef <*))))<
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i think it'd be fine. 40b is a small tank. usually those tanks are only supported either on the sides or front and back.
DaddyFish
“5 percenter”
Support wise it should be fine the way it is for a framed glass 40. If you top it I would go the extra and definitely do 3/4" so there's no curling at the overhang edges. If you have the tools, make the topper oversize by 1" front-to-back and 2" end-to-end. Cut the edges along three sides (front, left, right) at 45-degrees and have yourself a nice looking top. Use wood filler to fill any exposed holes/gaps in the plywood layers.
Edge view of the plywood top...
Do that on three sides and let the back edge be flush with the tank frame.
Edge view of the plywood top...
Do that on three sides and let the back edge be flush with the tank frame.
Last edited:
Idoc
Getting lazier and lazier with upkeep!
I'd use 3/4" to limit the edge from possibly bending downward.
I'll have to see what I can manage because I do like the look of that.Support wise it should be fine the way it is for a framed glass 40. If you top it I would go the extra and definitely do 3/4" so there's no curling at the overhang edges. If you have the tools, make the topper oversize by 1" front-to-back and 2" end-to-end. Cut the edges along three sides (front, left, right) at 45-degrees and have yourself a nice looking top. Use wood filler to fill any exposed holes/gaps in the plywood layers.
Edge view of the plywood top...
Do that on three sides and let the back edge be flush with the tank frame.
Thank you! I'll guess I got some more work to do.
The doubled 1/4 would be fine structurally, just hard to finish... would lead to moisture/de-lamination issues. Perhaps if glued up, properly painted or sealed with epoxy.
3/4 material is often used in cabinetry because it is more stable dimensionally (warp resistant) not because the load requires it.
I wouldn’t bother with a yoga mat or anything on a rimmed tank. Just level the top out.
3/4 material is often used in cabinetry because it is more stable dimensionally (warp resistant) not because the load requires it.
I wouldn’t bother with a yoga mat or anything on a rimmed tank. Just level the top out.
Alternative to adding a top if you are just looking to have more landing area for the tank rim:
Put a banding of 1x4 around the top edge. Just be sure it’s flush with the 2x4. Glue it and screw it... done.
Put a banding of 1x4 around the top edge. Just be sure it’s flush with the 2x4. Glue it and screw it... done.
I debated just adding another 2x4 across the back and down to hold it as well. I haven't decided for sure on a top, was trying to get some other thoughts. It would cover up the ends of the 1/4 around the tank though
