DIY stand strength question

[jtgordon20]

I'll be building a stand for my future 40B build at the end of the month. I'm thinking about building a skeleton out of 2x3's (actually 1.5"x2.5") it will be the top and bottom frame the same as the footprint of the tank (36"x18") then 4 upright legs in each corner, assembled with pocket screws and glue. all wrapped in either 1/4" or 1/2" oak plywood going up and covering the plastic trim on the tank.

Will this be strong enough?
1/4" or 1/2" plywood.


Thank you!!!
I could build a model on Google sketchup when I get home.

 

[redfishbluefish]

Here’s a dimensional lumber plan:

If you are using pocket screws and skinning the stand, you should be able to eliminate that light green piece.


For a 40B, 2 x 3’s should be more than enough. I would also top the stand with a minimum of ½ plywood. And ¼ ply would be enough for the skin.

 

[Stano]

The trick with building a stand is to use the framing members in a way that you are not relying on the screws to support the weight. Position the legs so that the upper frame the tank sits on rests on top of the legs. As far as the sheeting this will be primarily for bracing the structure laterally. I suspect 1/4" on this size of frame is more than adequate. If you put a sketch up model together post it and I can look at it.

Stano

 

[jtgordon20]

I'll work out a model of this.

With that picture, I'm aiming to take out the light green pieces and the front purple piece, leaving one purple piece under the length and width wood pieces

 

[Stano]

The picture actually shows about what you need if using 2x3. You want a support under the end of each horizontal member.

 

[blade009]

I would gusset all the inside corners: IMO

 

[blade009]

I would also rotate the bottom boards 90 deg so u have a bigger footprint on the ground and u could also then add a shelf for the bottom

 

[jtgordon20]

I'm fine with the bottom boards that way so I can put a piece of plywood underneath and seal it so if I have a leak it gives me time.

I'll have to look up gusseting

 

[strange33w]

The stand plans that redfishbluefish posted up work great. Those are just like what I did on my 165 thats in my sig block below. I used 2x4s and it holds up my tank with no worries at all.

 

[jtgordon20]

The problem with that design is that it wouldn't allow me to have a 20L sump.

 

[fragmatic]

+1 all
You do not need the green parts and you skin IS your gussets. In my opinion. Glue up all those joints and that thing will hold plenty more that you are going to put on it. The joints need to fit tight, and be glued. By deciding to glue the joints this makes sure you fit them glue tight and removes the voids so the weight is absolutely transferred directly to the floor not allowing any vertical joint to be stressed.

 

[jtgordon20]

Just glue? No screws?
Here's the sketchup model as promised, finally got the chance.

The top and bottom plywood is 1/2" and the wood is 2x3's (1.5"x2.5")

 

[fragmatic]

Nice sketch. Is it going to have doors? After you skin it with ply it will be strong except for the front. If you add some wood to the front uprights it will give you more safety in vertical load bearing at that area. The rear supports have ply at both right angles, the front only has that in one direction. I understand the all glue concept, and suggest good sized biscuits in the joints for this design. Rent, buy, or borrow a slot biscuit cutter if you don't have one. They are a snap to use and handle the location situation for you.

 

[jtgordon20]

Someone else mentioned glue, my first though was pocket screws with glue for the seams.

There will be plywood around, I guess I should bump it up to 1/2" plywood on the sides too.
I want to avoid vertical supports On the front because I was full sump access and the ability to pull the sump out if need be.

Looks good though? Any more suggestions?

 

[fragmatic]

Pocket screws would be good, I did not suggest because most don't have a way to install them. The 1/2" ply would add the (I think) additional needed vertical support if it is under the plywood cap, and glued in place with clamps. All just my opinion.

 

[jtgordon20]

I'll have to buy the jig for pocket screws. Does anyone know if I could just return it right after I'm done?

What do you mean by under the plywood cap?

 

[fragmatic]

so that the side skins are under and supporting the top ply

 

[fragmatic]

Are you going to skin either front or back?

 

[fragmatic]

Are you going to skin either front or back?

Sorry for short posts, am on the road. If not you will need to drop down from the top 8 to 12" and add another cross board to the front & back and skin those areas too. If not this frame will diamond and crash under load.

 

[Alex27]

Hello everyone, this is my first post on R2R.
I've built many stands out of 2x4 and 2x6. for the size tank you want 2x3 would be fine. I would also follow the first sketch and as stated remove the green pieces. However I differ in the use of the plywood sizes. it would be best to use 3/4" plywood for the top, it provides a sturdier platform. As for the sides, 1/2" plywood would be fine. If you'd like I can post a few pics of two stands that I've built. hope this helps. also if you want to provide a water tight sump area you can use a 3/4" piece of plywood on the bottom of the frame,pocket hole them together and then silicone and pain the inside this will provide a water tight spot for your sump.