DIY Stand

[AbjectMaelstroM]

This is my first attempt at a DIY stand for my upcoming (and first ever) 120G reef tank. Finally got the go-ahead from the boss and I figured I will start with the stand along with the reef pi controller. This thread will focus primarily on the construction of the stand (60x25x36) for the 48x24x24 120g tank. I'm going with a dimensional lumber design (2x4's and 2x6) found on ReefCentral.

After spending a good half hour at lowes rummaging through the entire pile of 2x4's and 2x6, picked were slim but in the end I was able to make it out with the straightest boards I could find....which ain't saying much. Fast forward to yesterday, I completed my initial attempt at the stand; I say initial because when I get back from our Cayman drive trip, I'm breaking it down and starting over. What it boiled down to were two things, my inexperience and availability of straight lumber. The smallest of imperfections in the lumber were amplified significantly as the build went on and culminated in warped, albeit slightly, stand which even with a 3/4 ply top, I could not get my level to sit on it flush. While my tank is going to be of "traditional" framed design from Planet Aquariums, I want to have the best platform for it that I can build given my materials.

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Unfortunately, what I could rally use is a jointer; however, that's a $400+ investment that's just not going to happen. That being said, while I don't have a jointer, I DO have a table saw. ENTER "THE JOINT-INATOR 6000":

I did a test run on a 2ft piece of 2x6 and I'm liking the result. While it's not perfect-jointer quality, it's about as close as I'll be able to get without one. Basically going to take apart the stand, and run the 2x4's and 2x6's through the table saw (~1/8" from each side) and then put it back together. I mean I couldn't possibly make it worse than it is, right? Haha, famous last words.

Of those with some carpentry experience and/or those whom have built a DIY stand before....any suggestions/comments? What did you learn that you wish you knew when you started on your project?

More to come in a week once I'm back from vacation.

PS. Just thought of this, but I may fabricate a 4-corner square jig on the back of a 3/4" top to further help the lumber square.

 

[Crabs McJones]

Looking good so far, would you like me to move this thread to the "Member Tanks" forum if it's going to be your build thread?

 

[Michael Lane]

Nice jointing jig! My stand is based on the same basic design. The offset for the vertical supports is different; is your stand going to be longer than your tank? From what I understand, you want the vertical supports beneath the corners of the tank.

Here's what I learned building my stand -

• The bulkhead for the drains are pretty close to the corners in my tank. I had to remove some material from the top of the rear vertical green parts. It doesn't look like you have that in your build, but it was a problem for me.
• I had to use a ton of shims to get my stand level. It's in a finished basement, but the concrete floor was sloped away from the walls.
• Enclosing the bottom and covering with shower pan liner has been a lifesaver. Water splashes all around when messing with stuff under the tank. It's nice to be able to wipe up spills without any effort or worry.

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Looking good so far, would you like me to move this thread to the "Member Tanks" forum if it's going to be your build thread?

Sure, if that would be more appropriate (Should probably change the title). But this will be a month(s) long project before I even have water in the tank, I was going to add this thread to my main "tank" build thread once I actually start putting everything together. But hey, I'm easy...so whatever.

Nice jointing jig! My stand is based on the same basic design. The offset for the vertical supports is different; is your stand going to be longer than your tank? From what I understand, you want the vertical supports beneath the corners of the tank.

Thanks!

Yes. I was going for a 60x25 top and bottom to give me more space in the sump area with the leg/supports at the 48"x24" LxH to provide full support. However, going back, I will cut down the length back to 48(~ +3/4) x24 (~+3/4) for some more wiggle room and make it easier on myself with skinning plywood.

My "dry-run" I had to use about a dozen shims to get it as level as I could to the floor...carpet+pad has a LOT of give. Tried shimming the ply top and the frame, I still couldn't get it where I wanted. Corners would be flush but as soon as I started shimming the middle (~1/16-1/8) it would raise the corners; that's when I decided to stop trying to fudge it and take it down and joint/plane the lumber. If it's not flush or dang close after jointing....well, then fudge I will, hopefully with more success.

As for the shower liner, you're the 2nd person to suggest that! Sounds like I'll be going that route. I was actually considering coating the bottom shelf/floor as well as the first 2-4 inches of the walls with white flex-seal to create a "tub" of sorts to keep water off of my floor.




I really wanted to work on it some today, but the wife says I have to get my regulators, camera equipment, and backplate/wing off the living-room floor and pack my suitcase.

 

[Crabs McJones]

Sure, if that would be more appropriate (Should probably change the title). But this will be a month(s) long project before I even have water in the tank, I was going to add this thread to my main "tank" build thread once I actually start putting everything together. But hey, I'm easy...so whatever.



Thanks!

Yes. I was going for a 60x25 top and bottom to give me more space in the sump area with the leg/supports at the 48"x24" LxH to provide full support. However, going back, I will cut down the length back to 48(~ +3/4) x24 (~+3/4) for some more wiggle room and make it easier on myself with skinning plywood.

My "dry-run" I had to use about a dozen shims to get it as level as I could to the floor...carpet+pad has a LOT of give. Tried shimming the ply top and the frame, I still couldn't get it where I wanted. Corners would be flush but as soon as I started shimming the middle (~1/16-1/8) it would raise the corners; that's when I decided to stop trying to fudge it and take it down and joint/plane the lumber. If it's not flush or dang close after jointing....well, then fudge I will, hopefully with more success.

As for the shower liner, you're the 2nd person to suggest that! Sounds like I'll be going that route. I was actually considering coating the bottom shelf/floor as well as the first 2-4 inches of the walls with white flex-seal to create a "tub" of sorts to keep water off of my floor.




I really wanted to work on it some today, but the wife says I have to get my regulators, camera equipment, and backplate/wing off the living-room floor and pack my suitcase.

Oh no worries. If you have a build thread going already we'll leave it

 

[Apotack]

Add some wood to the joints

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Add some wood to the joints

Sorry, not quite sure what you mean; could you provide more info. Been a long day. ;Blackeye

 

[Apotack]

Sorry about that. What I was trying to say was if you rebuild the stand wood glue where the joints meet will add a good deal of strength. Titebond III or II are both excellent.

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Sorry about that. What I was trying to say was if you rebuild the stand wood glue where the joints meet will add a good deal of strength. Titebond III or II are both excellent.

Haha, gotcha. Yeah, that makes more sense now.

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Bit of a productive weekend. Along with knocking out more of the Reef Pi build, I got some work in on thr stand.

After running all of the lumber through the jig, I put humpty-dumpty back together.

Dropped on a 3/4 plywood top. 1/2 bottom and 3 out of 4 sides.

General structure put together, filling in any and all imperfections with filler.

Next step will be to face the front with some appearance boards then get cracking on the doors/euro hinges.

Any suggestions on sealing the insides to prevent moisture creep? My thought was sealing the seams with mold resistant silicone and prime with Killz oil based primer, but wanted to see what others were doing.

Also... Looking at it now, should I have left the back panel off to let the stand breathe (sump EVAP etc) ?

 

[jsker]

Nice stand build.

Any suggestions on sealing the insides to prevent moisture creep? My thought was sealing the seams with mold resistant silicone and prime with Killz oil based primer, but wanted to see what others were doing.

I would suggest using the epoxy appliance paint for the inside after priming the inside. I would also suggest venting the back so that there is air exchange to control moisture building up in the cabinet. This will prevent long term issues with rust and equipment failures/controller connections.

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Well, it's absolutely miserable outside today so.... While the wife is out of the house, desides to do some stand work.

After some back and forth, I decided against using appearance board to fa e the front of the stand, instead I used a 1/2" plywood that I had on hand. Made for a much more unuform appearance.

Made a rough cut with the jigsaw

Followed up with a router and a flush bit.

Next, instead of fully seating the back, I out in 24x48 sheet of 3/4 ply I had left over, and flushed it with the router.

May put two 16-18" wide panels on the left and right perimeter of the opening to button it up some more. Plumbing will dictate. What do you guys think?

Still need to do a bunch of filling and sanding before I prime. An unfortunate side effect of warped 2x4s.





Ps. Doors are next, probably this coming weekend.

 

[Barnabie Mejia]

nice build so far! I like it! gonna follow this one! don't keep us waiting too long!

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

nice build so far! I like it! gonna follow this one! don't keep us waiting too long!

Haha, thanks! I'll do my best, but unfortunately, with work, the only time I have to "play" is on weekends. But, when the time comes, I try to make the most of it.

 

[Fragtastic1]

Following along!

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Got a little bit more done today, not as much as I wanted to.

Started on the top and bottom portions of the trim.

Also cut the stiles and rails for the doors.

Unfortunately, if you notice, there is one rail missing from the left pile (door). So, that's what happens when you get overly confident in your cuts and get in the groove.... Then forget your table saw is set for a different size cut.

Anyway, I suppose it's a good a place as any yo stop. Before I go, I did get a test cut on the router for the door rail(s).

Looking good. Tomorrow off to Lowes to get lumber to re-cut the rail, as well as some corner molding. If all goes well, tomorrow should get the doors and most of the trim done.

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Day off today, so I tried to get a little more work done and ended up doing more than planned before it started drizzling.

Added most of the trim, the last but will be added once I have the tank up to make it all flush.

Assembled the doors. Don't mind the scuffs, it'll all be primed/painted over.

Got it somewhat put together. Needs corner molding.

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Added corner molding.

Now... I need to start thinking about colors.

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Ok so, after after about an hour walking around lowes looking at colors, I'm thinking a off white (grayish/bluish white) primary color with a dark grey trim/accent.

Something like:

Inside the stand, I'm not sure yet, probably just white, I think I'll use an oil based paint just to help with moisture. I'm also considering using flex-seal on the bottom of the stand (lower 4") to create somewhat of a rubber rub, to make spill clean up easier; or maybe do bathroom liner as Mike has suggested. I also plan on re-painting the room. Two tone, lower 1/3 (below the chair rail) in the dark gray and 2/3 (above the chair rail in the white/cool gray.

I swear, picking color is harder than building the stand.

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

After some back and forth and looking at others' builds, I think I'm going to try and keep as much out of the sump area as possible, electronics-wise. Which leads me in the crossroads of the Reef-Pi build and the stand. Going to start planning out a small auxiliary cabinet that will be next to the DT stand and will house the "brain" ie. Reef-Pi box and supporting "organs" of the system ie. MP40 controllers, power strip/controller, light power supplies/controllers, maybe even the dosing pump(s).

Off to the drawing board.