DIY Sump

[TroyClark]

I have been planning a 55 gallon sump to go under the 120 Display. I have attached a pic of what I think the layout will be. Would any of you more experienced reefers take a look at it and let me know what you think?

Thanks

 

[dugthefish]

I'm not sure, but I think you only need the over/under set before the return. I'm planning one with a 50 long, just gonna use a prefab baffle kit.
https://www.exoticmarinesystems.com...cts/55-sump-kit-triton?variant=18252867600457

 

[Jberge]

I have been planning a 55 gallon sump to go under the 120 Display. I have attached a pic of what I think the layout will be. Would any of you more experienced reefers take a look at it and let me know what you think?

Thanks

I’m no expert but I would get a pre made filter sock holder for the first compartment and then can get rid of the first B baffle and second A baffle. Then swap the last A and C so it’s over first and then under

 

[theMeat]

Hi Troy,
Guessing the second section is refugium?
Either way, if refugium, On far end of fuge, reverse the bubble trap. Meaning have water go over first pane, and under second. Place them 1 3/4’” apart, so you can place a 2” foam to keep macro in fuge. This will keep flow in fuge area across the top, and allow you to, if you ever want to, put mud of sand on bottom

 

[TroyClark]

Thanks for the comments. Here is my reasoning on laying it out like I did. I could be wrong and would gladly change my layout based on more experienced opinions. This will be my first sump so I am kinda flying blind here LOL. (Got a quote for $80 buck to have the 6 pieces of glass cut and edges sanded but not polished. Does that price sound pretty good?)

Inlet - I think the filter socks are going to be a headache with trying to get the inlet pipe under the waterline to minimize sound and from what I have read, getting the socks off to clean them is a pain with the tubes going down in them. All the sock holders I have seen are acrylic and while I like acrylic, I have not had good luck with trying to silicone acrylic to glass and get it to last. Plus, I have many of the Aquaclear 110 sponges and they would fit perfectly in the 3.5 inch space and they are cheap to replace.

I have the under over configuration to encourage water to flow in each section from high to low around everything in the compartments and not just skim the surface. 2nd compartment will likely be a fuge with live rock, macro algae and aragonite sand plus my 500 watt titanium heater which will be on a Ranco external temperature controller.

I have the baffles in the middle since there is a cross brace on the 55 gallon top trim and didn't want to have to reach around it all the time.

The third section will be for my protein skimmer and reactors and such.

I wanted to make sure I had enough room for the pump to do its thing and not drop the water depth too much. I have a pump planned that is stronger than I need so I was planning on teeing it off with ball valves and having it run my reactors as well as return the water to the display tank.

After it all gets put together, I plan on good lids to minimize evaporation. I have my RO+DI and salt mixing barrels within an arms reach behind this tank so topping it off daily will not be a problem since I have to go back there to feed everyday anyway.

Since this will be an in wall setup, none of this will be visible from the front.

I know this post was lengthy but I really want to set this up right the first time. The tank will have a mix of corals, an anemone with clownfish and a few other reef safe fishes. Thanks for looking and I really do value all opinions so please don't hesitate to chime in.

Thanks, Troy

 

[Matt Carden]

The only thing I will comment on is that you won't need the center brace on top once you silicone baffles in place. You can just cut the center brace out of you way before you get started.

 

[TroyClark]

Good point Matt, hadn't thought of that. Will definitely do that.

 

[Larry L]

I think the filter socks are going to be a headache

I agree and don't use filter socks myself, but I think the sponge blocks are going to be annoying because there's no way to pull them out for cleaning without setting a whole bunch of detritus loose in the sump.

 

[TroyClark]

I agree and don't use filter socks myself, but I think the sponge blocks are going to be annoying because there's no way to pull them out for cleaning without setting a whole bunch of detritus loose in the sump.

Thanks, thats another thing I didn't think about. Thats why I love forums, the more input the better. Thanks

 

[TroyClark]

Thanks, thats another thing I didn't think about. Thats why I love forums, the more input the better. Thanks

Updated Design :

 

[theMeat]

Are you running triton method?

 

[TroyClark]

Are you running triton method?

Whats that?

 

[theMeat]

Triton method is a way of nutrient export and trace elements replacement,

Asked because I see you have refugium first, then skimmer. Why not give skimmer first chance at dirtiest water, then fuge. Then pods that can make it to tank don’t have to pass skimmer to survive the journey as well. Another benefit is skimmer micro bubbles are further separated from return pump

 

[TroyClark]

Triton method is a way of nutrient export and trace elements replacement,

Asked because I see you have refugium first, then skimmer. Why not give skimmer first chance at dirtiest water, then fuge. Then pods that can make it to tank don’t have to pass skimmer to survive the journey as well. Another benefit is skimmer micro bubbles are further separated from return pump

I hadn't really made up my mind what is going where but that sounds like a great idea. Thanks

 

[TroyClark]

I was planning on using an Eshopps PF-1000 overflow at $85 bucks but have seen the Seapora 1000 overflow for $62 bucks. Quite the difference but they don't look very different.

Does anyone have experience with those?

 

[PaulPerger]

I was planning on using an Eshopps PF-1000 overflow at $85 bucks but have seen the Seapora 1000 overflow for $62 bucks. Quite the difference but they don't look very different.

Does anyone have experience with those?

You would be much better off to drill your tank... lose syphon on those and you will flood your floor...

 

[theMeat]

Yes, better to drill, for sure, if not tempered glass.
If you’re not sold, go with tubeless hang on overflow. Like CPR

 

[Retro Reefer]

I would go with the eshopps PF overflow, they are one of the best HOB overflows and work great when properly set up and given adequate flow. Absolutely no need to drill your tank if your not comfortable with it or have tempered glass.

 

[Tompickles]

I was planning on using an Eshopps PF-1000 overflow at $85 bucks but have seen the Seapora 1000 overflow for $62 bucks. Quite the difference but they don't look very different.

Does anyone have experience with those?

I’ve used the eshopps overflow for a year and half now and have never had a issue

 

[theMeat]

A hang on overflow relies on a siphon.
A hang on with tubes can collect air in tube which will make siphon fail.
A tubeless hang on has a back up to remove any possible air that can collect, so safer.
A drilled tank relies on gravity, so safest option.