DIY T5 lighting

kdx7214

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I'm getting close to having water in my tank so it's time to start looking into lighting. Most of what's out there commercially is far out of my price range, so I'm thinking of building it myself.

I have a 75 gallon tank (4') and am considering using either one or two T5 bulbs plus some LEDs in the middle to flesh out whatever spectrum is missing. I've read through tons of stuff from the general lighting threads so have a decent handle on the spectrum I want. The question is how to go about it. I have some electronics background, I know what a ballast is and that sort of thing. What I don't know how to do is choose the right ballast, how to wire it, and what type of endcaps to get.

Anyone know of a basic DIY guide for T5 reef fixtures?
 
I'm getting close to having water in my tank so it's time to start looking into lighting. Most of what's out there commercially is far out of my price range, so I'm thinking of building it myself.

I have a 75 gallon tank (4') and am considering using either one or two T5 bulbs plus some LEDs in the middle to flesh out whatever spectrum is missing. I've read through tons of stuff from the general lighting threads so have a decent handle on the spectrum I want. The question is how to go about it. I have some electronics background, I know what a ballast is and that sort of thing. What I don't know how to do is choose the right ballast, how to wire it, and what type of endcaps to get.

Anyone know of a basic DIY guide for T5 reef fixtures?

Have you looked at the LET Lighting T5 retrofit kits? Fairly reasonably priced and come in dimmable/none dimmable configurations. Might be easier than starting off from scratch (and are compatible with controllers if you ever go that route down the road). I think each "kit" is set up for two bulbs so you can scale up pretty easily if needed.
 
695FE59F-797A-4408-935C-E0318C860114.jpeg

This is 4 T5 and an LED strip.
 
Slightly off topic, but does anyone know how to remove the wires from a waterproof endcap? I want to redo my framing for the lights and it requires me to release the wires from the end caps.
 
Slightly off topic, but does anyone know how to remove the wires from a waterproof endcap? I want to redo my framing for the lights and it requires me to release the wires from the end caps.
You might want to start a new thread to get eyes on it.
 
You need to push the metal piece away from the wire. A small screwdriver works best. Some caps have openings in the side, others you have to go in parallel to the wire.
 
Slightly off topic, but does anyone know how to remove the wires from a waterproof endcap? I want to redo my framing for the lights and it requires me to release the wires from the end caps.
Look for a slot that accepts a small “very small” flat head. That should be the release of the wire quick connect. A picture would help if you can’t find one
 
Got it, thanks guys! There were two small slots on the inside.


This is helpful ince I have a old canopy with LET Led still attached and I have been prolonging moving them since I know what a pain they are to remove. Even taking the end cap of the plastic is a pain. I love them but think they are way overpriced for what you get in the box. Tops I would think $75 but this is a specialty hobby and we need more hobbyist man to drive down cost.


regardless I still love them and ordered 2 new sets for my 400 gallon. :)
 
Question on this, are you worried about a bulb breaking and taking out your tank? Not sure I would use a t5 or halide without a sealed reflector/hood. Maybe it's not an issue but I've seen t5 and halides/hps explode for no apparent reasons
 
Question on this, are you worried about a bulb breaking and taking out your tank? Not sure I would use a t5 or halide without a sealed reflector/hood. Maybe it's not an issue but I've seen t5 and halides/hps explode for no apparent reasons


I've run MH & VHO and T5 without splash guards for 32 years and never had either explode. Back when everyone ran MH it was rare to have splash guards and even then any breaks recorded were from people being startled from a clownfish bite and pulling back fast and breaking a bulb that way.

Or maybe faulty wiring causing a short and cause a bulb to crack, not sure explode.

Never ever remember a bulb breaking and crashing a tank.

I understand your concern but it's a non issue.
 
I've run MH & VHO and T5 without splash guards for 32 years and never had either explode. Back when everyone ran MH it was rare to have splash guards and even then any breaks recorded were from people being startled from a clownfish bite and pulling back fast and breaking a bulb that way.

Or maybe faulty wiring causing a short and cause a bulb to crack, not sure explode.

Never ever remember a bulb breaking and crashing a tank.

I understand your concern but it's a non issue.
I always figured the ones I've seen were from some type of handling/shipping damage that wasn't apparent. Like when a 600 sodium halide conversion bulb shatters, that's a crazy sound/sight. Only witnessed it once in a dozen years of using them
 
I run s3 sbreef extremes and put together a retrofit kit with a wod mount and set it right over top. I'd never go back to just led or just t5.. although they'll do the job you should consider a hybrid.
 
I am more concerned about bulbs breaking when changing or removing the clip on reflector. Once they are stationary they tend to not break. Think about all the office building in the world before LED lights, they where using long bulbs and you never heard about them exploding. Anythings possible but I tend to worry more so about the 6-7 heaters i have in all my systems.

20220221_221207.jpg
 
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IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

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