Do Algae Reactors Work, And Worth It?

How would it be any different though, the sump grown vs reactor grown? It sounds like algae that forms naturally wouldn't be the artificially grown variety. You're still growing algae with an artificial light source and letting your tank water flow through it in both situations.

Some Pods also eat detritus and whatnot. I have pods in my sump without a stitch of algae down there for over a year. Lots of rock rubble though.

But that's very interesting because you would think the algae is uptaking nutrients faster in an artificial setting.

My guess is the reactor grown algae grow so fast it is not as nutrient dense as refugium grown algae. Just speculating...
 
If your LEDs are running too hot, you can dial them down a bit. If you don't have access to a variable DC source (cheap ones on ebay), then maybe something like this would work:
https://www.amazon.com/HitLights-Strip-Light-Dimmer-Installation/dp/B007RFMY1O

Reduce the current 25%, and you reduce the power 25% (and the light output, maybe more than 25%). But running more LEDs at a lower power would last longer.

Additionally, these LED strips can be cut every 3-6", there are cut marks on all of the ones that I've purchased. No problem running them in parallel too, so if the "end gets dim", cut it half and run two strips.

Love the DIY solutions, I'm very impressed. I'm trying to come up with a plan for my own system, I'm setting up a 72g Bowfront, and want to build a algae reactor for it. I also don't like the wrap-around cheap LEDs, I've used them in other areas and have had them fail too fast for my tastes.

But coming up with a custom solution is non-trivial too. The bare LEDs are easy to find, but a setup like the Skims is pretty impressive. Getting that designed and (I assume) UL listed, is a serious project.

Looks like maybe it is a single PCB in a waterproof housing, with LEDs on both sides? I wonder if it is using side firing LEDs too.
210554-skimz-mbr127-reactor-b.jpg
 
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If you have a 60W strip, at 12v, that would be 5 amps.

This one is overkill, but if you found something cheap used, would be great:
https://www.amazon.com/Tekpower-TP1505D-Variable-Voltage-Current/dp/B007IVFLE4

But for seven bucks, I'd seriously consider this item:
https://www.amazon.com/WINGONEER-Controller-Regulator-Switching-Indicator/dp/B06XHGP58T

It's a PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) driver, that says it will dim LEDs. Just put it in-line, and dial back the power until they don't get hot to the touch.
 
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I've read all 14 pages a few times, and it seems like eventually everyone's lights get too hot, except the Accel lights. Is this true?

Can we have a summary of which lights are best to get from Amazon that don't run hot?

I'm hoping to find a Red/Blue strip that can be dimmed and don't run too hot over time.
 
Don't you have to buy specific dimmable led's to use the dimmer? Usually they only come in 1 color. I've never seen dimmable grow lights because they use different resistors for the red & blue colors.
 
It's a little expensive for sure but it's built so well and the spectrum is perfect. I harvest at least 50% of the chaeto a week and it just keeps growing. The only pain in the butt is you have to keep up on trimming it back and rinsing out the chaeto because if you don't you can get some nasty crap growing in there
 
To the best of my knowledge, any BARE LED can be dimmed. One way is to turn them on/off extremely fast (khz range), known as PWM. Biologicals can't tell they are flickering, but the average power goes down.

LEDs with drive circuitry (like in replacement lamps for house lights), can be not compatible with a dimmer, but basic LEDs can all dim.

http://luxreview.com/article/2015/07/dos-and-dont-s-for-led-dimming

The above dimmer:
Specification:

Working temperature: -20-60 DegC
Supply voltage: DC12V-24V
Output: 1 channel

Static power consumption: <1 W
Output current: <8 A
Power output: 96 W
 
Yes any led can be dimmed. But ask yourself if you need to deal with that for the first week or two. After that you won't need the dimming. Just shade the lights instead.

That's why hydro grow lights generally don't dim, because they think in terms of years of growth; not the first week.
 
A good point if you are worried about too much light for the algae, but if the LEDs are overheating in this particular application, you need to drop the voltage, current or PWM them, long term.
 
Led goes straight down the center or the reactor in a tube that's not exposed to the water and at the top there's a big heat sink... It's a mix of red and white LEDs I'm not sure what the exact spectrum is
 
I wonder if these waterproof Marineland led light sticks would work?

If you drilled a small hole through the top of the reactor, offset to one side, for the power cord connection and just epoxy it shut. People in the reviews are saying they use them underwater, just not the cord.

They're 6,600k with blue & white. I used a 6,500k in my fuge that grew chaeto just fine.

So who's gonna drill through their reactor first? :rolleyes:
 
I wonder if these waterproof Marineland led light sticks would work?

If you drilled a small hole through the top of the reactor, offset to one side, for the power cord connection and just epoxy it shut. People in the reviews are saying they use them underwater, just not the cord.

They're 6,600k with blue & white. I used a 6,500k in my fuge that grew chaeto just fine.

So who's gonna drill through their reactor first? :rolleyes:
It kind of worries me the trouble shooting section says something along the lines of, "if the LEDs fall in the water, remove them and wipe them off".
 
So I still haven't built mine due to the lighting issues out there but had a thought. Why are we so focused on these strip lights to wrap around these devices? Why not build a square unit around the device and use two or four flat led devices that are more proven. Like these that alot of people use for turf scrubbers.


Floodoor LED Grow Light,10W US 3 Pr.../B01D9F9GM0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nfxWzbQQ4K970
I think the wrapping ensures the light is hitting everything. I suppose if you had 4 of those aiming angled up each side of the reactor it would be similar, but also it would be 56 bucks + box materials. Tonight or tomorrow I'll be checking the growth of mine.
 
I think the wrapping ensures the light is hitting everything. I suppose if you had 4 of those aiming angled up each side of the reactor it would be similar, but also it would be 56 bucks + box materials. Tonight or tomorrow I'll be checking the growth of mine.
I think 4 LED bars up each side would be better than those lights personally.
 

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