Do Algae Reactors Work, And Worth It?

It's almost impossible to get decent lights on Amazon. I asked a seller that was selling the fully submersible IP68's why he only has them in 2M length and he said because the lights at the end would be dimmer if it was 5M's. They were also 12V and not 24V. But he didn't include a power supply either.

We need somebody to make dedicated, fully submersible lights for this purpose. Because all of these lights are meant for house plants.

That is true, if you run more than one strip of leds you will need to run them parallel to keep the current evenly distributed otherwise the ends will be dim. That is why I went with 3 different strips than the typical grow lights on Amazon, they don't seem reliable enough. Different spectrum LEDs require different resisters. Wondering if the the grow lights have different resisters otherwise that may be the reason the blues burn out before the other colors.
 
I'm curious...

For anybody that bought the Skimz algae reactor, have you had any brown algae growth on the quartz sleeve, or along the acrylic inside?

Seems like this reactor is the only one with somewhat decent LED's made for this purpose.
 
So for anybody that has set up their own DIY algae reactor that has been running for a while, have you had good success with the led's you chose?

I know some people have had the blues burn out, ect...

So who has a link to led's that have been working for a while now?
 
Finally got mine running I bought a cheap light off Amazon it lasted all of two days before it quit. So I ordered the one from marine Depot all white LEDs seems to be much better quality. Anyway here it is only issue I have is the chaeto ball is sinking to the bottom and there are no LEDs but I'm sure the light is still getting to the top of the ball. I am going to try the inner canister to the zeovit reactor and see if that helps tomorrow. Cool thing is the ball spins as it is.
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Finally got mine running I bought a cheap light off Amazon it lasted all of two days before it quit. So I ordered the one from marine Depot all white LEDs seems to be much better quality. Anyway here it is only issue I have is the chaeto ball is sinking to the bottom and there are no LEDs but I'm sure the light is still getting to the top of the ball. I am going to try the inner canister to the zeovit reactor and see if that helps tomorrow. Cool thing is the ball spins as it is.
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The MD lights are pretty short. Not enough to cover a 17" tall reactor. If you're reactor is an upflow model, try turning up the flow to raise the ball up.
 
The MD lights are pretty short. Not enough to cover a 17" tall reactor. If you're reactor is an upflow model, try turning up the flow to raise the ball up.
Good idea I didn't even think of adjusting the flow. I started the lights 5" from the bottom so they wouldn't be in the water and ended them below the drain tube so it's only covering the middle maybe 10". Thanks for the advice
 
Well, I have run an upflow algae scrubber for years and love it on my large 210g. But limited space on picos and my 40g, I cannot get an upflow going. So, I just built an algae reactor. Plugged it in today in my 40g and added a handful of cheato. Lets see how this goes. My 40g is currently quite clean, but I aim to keep it that way. :) Not too clean as it is lps, but clear of algae and too much nutrients.

Build:
AquaMaxx Reactor HOB 14.6" height 1L model
Cobalt MJ 1200 pump
LED Plant Light, BT 3pcs 1.64ft/strip LED Plant Light Grow Strip Light Flexible Soft Strip Light with Power Adaptor for Aquarium Greenhouse Hydroponics Indoor Plant Vegetable Flower Seeds Growth-- from amazon

I just wrapped the lights around the cylinder and taped with black duct tape. Then I added cheato, plugged in pump and it is set. It is on a timer for 18 hrs daylight. Oh, I wrapped it to contain the light too.
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What is the diameter of those reactors?

Has anyone seen clear PVC like in this ebay listing?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/131855689498?chn=ps&dispItem=1

You could get some of this clear PVC, 2 end caps and a couple fittings for a reasonable price.

A 3 inch diameter 1 foot piece was 22 bucks, 4 inch was 30 bucks, with free shipping. If you can find fittings in your local store, you could make a pretty nice algae reactor using this.

I just about got my sump setup, and was planning on doing all cheato in the fuge, but then I saw this post and am having second thoughts.
 
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What is the diameter of those reactors?

Has anyone seen clear PVC like in this ebay listing?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/131855689498?chn=ps&dispItem=1

You could get some of this clear PVC, 2 end caps and a couple fittings for a reasonable price.

A 3 inch diameter 1 foot piece was 22 bucks, 4 inch was 30 bucks, with free shipping. If you can find fittings in your local store, you could make a pretty nice algae reactor using this.

I just about got my sump setup, and was planning on doing all cheato in the fuge, but then I saw this post and am having second thoughts.

It depends on the size reactor for the size tank you have. But generally they range from an interior diameter of 3 inches to 7 inches. The universal media chamber from Geo's Reef is what I plan on using (the middle size, which is 17" tall with a 4" internal diameter).

UMCgroup.jpg

UMCacc.jpg

They are upflow and downflow reactors, come as an open canister, comes with a valve to control flow, and most importantly, has screen and foam padding to keep the clippings in.

It basically has everything you need except the pump and hose. The only thing we haven't been able to nail down is a good set of wrap around LED's. Most seem to burn out or last a few days.

Here's the LINK if you want to check them out.
 
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Ok... So I had a little back and forth with the owner of Pax Bellum, who makes the VERY expensive ARID algae reactor. He gave me some info on designing a reactor, like if you wrap it, it should be white and not black to bounce the light back into the chamber. I brought up the Skimz model and how it's half the price of his similar model and also comes with a pump, while his does not. Here's everything he posted and maybe it'll help some of you out...

"Thanks for the feedback and the link. I understand price is an issue for many people in the hobby and currently we don't have the capacity to make a reactor in the requested price point (half). Eventually we will get there. We can design it, it's just the little issue of getting it to market in volume.

For those that don't know the Skimz version can only run in a sump. The black acrylic might be the worst choice as a reflective chamber wall but does block light bleed fairly well. I did read the wattage on the smallest unit as 18w and believe that includes the power consumption of the pump. I held the light tube in my hand after it had been on all day out of water and the glass light tube was barely warm. I'm guessing, but probably 4-6w is going to the output of the LEDs. The O-ring on the lid doesn't use a gland and simply stretches over the chamber tube. Our smallest is the n18 and was designed to run outside the sump free standing or as a hang on the tank version. The chamber walls are bright white and 100% light blocking besides the logo cut out on one side. The LEDs are 12watts, actually 13.8, but we derated them in case one draws slightly less. That wattage equates to a high measurement of 2885 umol m2/s of PAR according to my apogee meter at the light tube surface. That light intensity penetrates out to the chamber wall and then reflects back in. It requires a cheap pump most people probably already own a MJ900 or any pump putting out about 150gph. I notice many people don't realize how to run a macroalgae reactor to maximize it's efficiency. We plan on working on some videos to get that information out there. Thanks again for your suggestions, we're listening, and will do our best to meet market demand.

The ARID does replace GFO, biopellet reactors, carbon dosing, even skimmers while keeping ph stable day and night and increasing dissolved oxygen higher than could be achieved with a skimmer alone. It's the most efficient light arrangement possible, the chamber body acts as a reflector bouncing light back into the algae. Less light escaping allows it to be placed in light sensitive areas such as aquariums located in bedrooms. The heat pipe and heat sink keeps heat out of your tank while increasing the life of the high output LEDs. Please check out Marine Depots site where they have our FAQ sheet on the product page as a pdf. Thank you for your comment."
 
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I did look for white to cover it, but could not find anything that would also block light laying around the house. So I found blue paper. :) I will find something eventually.

Make sure to get the waterproof leds. These are sold for horticulture and such. My scrubber sits outside the tank.
 
I've been using the same lights from amazon for about 3 months with no issues. They are blue and red grow lights. Came with adapter and are waterproof. If they burn out I'll replace them! They were 15 bucks I think
 

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