Do Algae Reactors Work, And Worth It?

[skiergd011013]

I have a tlf phosban 150. I was going to run gfo, but i like this algae reactor idea better. Online i see that walmart has hydroponic led strips. Has anyone gotten them at wslmart and used them? I could order on amazon, but it'd be easy to just go grab them tomorrow.

 

[SantaMonica]

Wally is in on the hydro market... wow that's pretty neat.

 

[Jeepguy242]

I have a tlf phosban 150. I was going to run gfo, but i like this algae reactor idea better. Online i see that walmart has hydroponic led strips. Has anyone gotten them at wslmart and used them? I could order on amazon, but it'd be easy to just go grab them tomorrow.

Are they available in store. They are going the amazon route and selling online for other vendors.

 

[NefTunzReef]

Do algae reactors work and are they worth it??? I'll let the pictures speak for themselves. About a month's time of growth in between and I added a similar tuft of red macroalgae about a week in...

 

[Forsaken77]

I have a tlf phosban 150. I was going to run gfo, but i like this algae reactor idea better. Online i see that walmart has hydroponic led strips. Has anyone gotten them at wslmart and used them? I could order on amazon, but it'd be easy to just go grab them tomorrow.

I don't know if you read through this thread, but keep in mind that some led's may melt the reactor, some are not water proof or water resistant, and if you use chaeto algae, it has small bits that will come out of the reactor after trimming, so a foam pad before the reactors output is a good idea. It can also cause light bleed to grow algae in your sump. Just a few things to keep in mind

 

[Forsaken77]

Do algae reactors work and are they worth it??? I'll let the pictures speak for themselves. About a month's time of growth in between and I added a similar tuft of red macroalgae about a week in...

That's the Skimz reactor? If so, do you have problems with the O-ring?

 

[skiergd011013]

Are they available in store. They are going the amazon route and selling online for other vendors.

not sure, i just saw them on walmarts site. I have everything but the lights, so id prefer to just go and get them and want to get it running today

 

[NefTunzReef]

That's the Skimz reactor? If so, do you have problems with the O-ring?

Skimz Macroalgae reactor. The O-ring issue that some users report being difficult to keep in place is a simple two second fix. When you first use the O-ring dry, it may inadvertently slip off as you try to put the top cover on. The product comes with a reef safe lubricant that you use around the light wand. Simply put a small amount of this lubricant also on the O-ring and this becomes a non-issue very quickly. It's definitely not a good reason not to buy this very efficient and effective Macroalgae reactor IMO.

 

[NefTunzReef]

I don't know if you read through this thread, but keep in mind that some led's may melt the reactor, some are not water proof or water resistant, and if you use chaeto algae, it has small bits that will come out of the reactor after trimming, so a foam pad before the reactors output is a good idea. It can also cause light bleed to grow algae in your sump. Just a few things to keep in mind

Skimz led is in a water proof glass tube. I can't say the same about DIY macroalgae reactors so use at your discretion.

With regards to chaeto bits and led light bleeding out into sump and causing unintended sump wall micro algae growth, consider this...

I ran a full refugium complete with cheato and refugium grow light prior to the Skimz reactor. I can tell you that chaeto was everywhere in my sump compartments, even bits in my return and some in my DT. What about light bleed and unintended micro algae growth on my sump walls? As you can expect, I had tons of unsightly algae growth on my sump walls because of the refugium light.

The opposite is now true with my microalgae reactor. My sump is pristine CLEAN (no wall algae, no chaeto mess, etc) and my DT has NO annoying bits of cheato anymore as the reactor does a very good job of containing everything within its cylindrical walls.

IF you want to house macroalgae BUT want a clean looking sump like I do, then this is a very good method to achieve those goals IMO.

 

[skiergd011013]

Is there any need to use the sponges, especially the bottom sponge, in my phosban 150 for chaeto?

 

[Forsaken77]

Is there any need to use the sponges, especially the bottom sponge, in my phosban 150 for chaeto?

If that reactor has a thin wall inside that water enters or exits through, then I would push the bottom sponge all the way down to keep little bits from falling through and the chaeto growing in a place you cannot get to it.

The top sponge will keep the bits from exiting. My opinion. It won't hurt anything and will keep the chaeto cleaner because it gets gacked up with stuff easily.

 

[Forsaken77]

Skimz led is in a water proof glass tube. I can't say the same about DIY macroalgae reactors so use at your discretion.

With regards to chaeto bits and led light bleeding out into sump and causing unintended sump wall micro algae growth, consider this...

I ran a full refugium complete with cheato and refugium grow light prior to the Skimz reactor. I can tell you that chaeto was everywhere in my sump compartments, even bits in my return and some in my DT. What about light bleed and unintended micro algae growth on my sump walls? As you can expect, I had tons of unsightly algae growth on my sump walls because of the refugium light.

The opposite is now true with my microalgae reactor. My sump is pristine CLEAN (no wall algae, no chaeto mess, etc) and my DT has NO annoying bits of cheato anymore as the reactor does a very good job of containing everything within its cylindrical walls.

IF you want to house macroalgae BUT want a clean looking sump like I do, then this is a very good method to achieve those goals IMO.

I was talking about a DIY because he is using a Phosban reactor and Walmart lights.

I know the Skimz encases their light in a cortze sleeve. Does micro algae grow on the sleeve or in the reactor?

I had the same problems with a fuge, which is why I started this thread. I asked Pax Bellum a few questions and why their model is soo much more expensive than the Skimz. He told me the black acrylic is the worst possible thing to use because it doesn't reflect light back into the unit. But it doesn't look like that's an issue for you. The black also lessens the bleed.

Quick question... I had asked BRS if there is a screen or sponge at the top and if bits will get through. They told me small clippings will get through because there's nothing blocking them. Did you have this problem? Or did you put a sponge to keep everything in?

 

[NefTunzReef]

It's true that there is no sponge or screen at the top and small chaeto bits could potentially escape. I didn't use any sponges to block the exit pipe as 1) it would eventually get clogged with detritus and impede the flow of water through the reactor, 2) the flow restriction would add to faster wear and tear on the pump, and 3) this would add another maintenance item as I have would have to clean the sponge on a weekly basis. I see this only as a potential issue initially when you start out with just small tufts of chaeto. Over time, as the chaeto grows into a huge tangled web, you should not see any small chaeto bits flying around in your sump. In my experience, especially compared to running a full blown fuge previously, I saw very little chaeto bits if any in my sump after I implemented the reactor.

 

[Forsaken77]

It's true that there is no sponge or screen at the top and small chaeto bits could potentially escape. I didn't use any sponges to block the exit pipe as 1) it would eventually get clogged with detritus and impede the flow of water through the reactor, 2) the flow restriction would add to faster wear and tear on the pump, and 3) this would add another maintenance item as I have would have to clean the sponge on a weekly basis. I see this only as a potential issue initially when you start out with just small tufts of chaeto. Over time, as the chaeto grows into a huge tangled web, you should not see any small chaeto bits flying around in your sump. In my experience, especially compared to running a full blown fuge previously, I saw very little chaeto bits if any in my sump after I implemented the reactor.

I used to gets the small chaeto bits right after trimming the ball. Because some pieces left tiny clippings after being cut. That's when the small bits were the worst for me, not in the beginning, but after trimming.

As for the sponge, I would buy a big sheet of porous filter pad that I cut to size. It shouldn't clog with detritus unless you run it right after the filter socks. Then when you cut the chaeto back, you throw out the pad and cut a fresh one.

How long have you had this reactor running? Did you trim yet? Does it have flow settings on the pump to raise or lower the flow?

I suppose I could run the output into a filter sock to catch the bits. I just don't want the bits to clog it up.

 

[NefTunzReef]

Have it running almost 3 months now. When I "trim" , I just gently pull out some chaeto to reduce the biomass instead of cutting. That's quite possibly why I don't see any chaeto bits anymore lol.

 

[NefTunzReef]

You could also give the chaeto a good rinse with tank water to wash off the small bits before you put the whole thing back inside the reactor after you trim.

 

[skiergd011013]

Well, as usual, i changed my mind. I am running GFO instead. I have it valved down to the point that the gfo is slightly boiling on the surface in spots. I had a brand new marineland mj400( knockoff brand) on it, and HOLY SMOKES, did that pump rattle. I couldnt listen to that thing for 5 secs. Luckily, I had an italian made cobalt mj1200 on hand. I switched to that, and silence! Hopefully its ok throttled way back. Ill just take a minute to say NEVER waste your money on the marineland maxi jets. They are horrible. I work at an aquarium, and my old boss ordered a bunch of them. They either just die and stop working, or leak voltage and trip gfi. Im not talking just one or two, but half a dozen units have failed. In the meantime, 10 yr old plus original maxijets we have are running circles around them. Get the cobalt italian made ones! Rant over.

 

[Forsaken77]

Well, as usual, i changed my mind. I am running GFO instead. I have it valved down to the point that the gfo is slightly boiling on the surface in spots. I had a brand new marineland mj400( knockoff brand) on it, and HOLY SMOKES, did that pump rattle. I couldnt listen to that thing for 5 secs. Luckily, I had an italian made cobalt mj1200 on hand. I switched to that, and silence! Hopefully its ok throttled way back. Ill just take a minute to say NEVER waste your money on the marineland maxi jets. They are horrible. I work at an aquarium, and my old boss ordered a bunch of them. They either just die and stop working, or leak voltage and trip gfi. Im not talking just one or two, but half a dozen units have failed. In the meantime, 10 yr old plus original maxijets we have are running circles around them. Get the cobalt italian made ones! Rant over.

I don't know if you sell them at your store, but the Maxijet 1200 has a prefilter that attaches on the front. It helps keep gack out of the reactor. My pods also like to live in it and eat any detritus. BRS sells a 2-pack for cheap. They also keep from sucking in the pods as well. Because once those stupid pods get in, they never follow the water flow and go out the top. They just wander around on top of the gfo until they die. The prefilter is made for the pump. Just an fyi.

 

[medusala]

What's the cheapest reactor in the 2-4 liter size?

 

[Forsaken77]

What's the cheapest reactor in the 2-4 liter size?

I haven't done any research on this, but are you referring to a professionally made one, or a DIY one?

Because there's only 2 companies that make the full blown setup, that I know of, and are Skimz and Pax Bellum. Much more expensive, but better results.

Then you can use any old reactor, pump and some cheap lights to make your own. As far as the cheapest reactor, I would probably say the Phosban reactor. You would have to check if it fits your size needs. There's 2 sizes.