Do i need a chiller?

  • Thread starter Thread starter JOKER
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users None

JOKER

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 5, 2013
Messages
2,917
Reaction score
819
Location
Pulaski
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
My tank can get up around 80 with lights full on with all MH, and T5 on. Tank is ran by apex, and heaters are set to 78 tops. I have the lights set to turn off if temp hits 82. Was thinking I may lower my lights some in the near future, and was wondering how much heat would be added as I lower lights.. House temp stays at 73 in summer 69 in winter, but you never know when central could go out. I was thinking a chiller may be good insurance if central unit went out.

If I were to decide to add a chiller, what size would I need for about 200 gallon total water volume? thanks
 
if tank runs 80 at most with all lights on then you probably wont need a chiller. Have a fan installed to run across the top of the tank or sump to come on at 80 or 81 and it should drop temp by few degrees, on the down side more evaporation. if you do decide to go with a chiller just for piece of mind any chiller minimum of 1/2 hp to 1 hp will work.
 
Last edited:
Running a fan over your DT and sump can make a shockingly huge difference. I have mine running on the apex and it can drop 2 degrees very fast in a cool room.

Are your MH actively cooled? I bet adding a tiny computer fan to the fixture would also really reduce heat addition to the tank.
 
Even 82 isn't really that much of an issue, but I do get the concern about AC crapping out. I bought a chiller last year because I wanted to try to mitigate the swings (as low as 78 some days, up to 83 on others). I don't run my house nearly that cool (78 mostly) so I use the chiller to maintain nominally 79.5. Size of the chiller depends on a lot of factors, including tank volume to surface ratio and whether it is acrylic or glass. My tank is acrylic, system of about 700 gallons and my 3/4HP unit has no trouble keeping up. I'd think a 1/3 would probably work in your case. Don't want to oversize the chiller as that increases the likelihood of it short cycling.
 
Running a fan over your DT and sump can make a shockingly huge difference. I have mine running on the apex and it can drop 2 degrees very fast in a cool room.

Are your MH actively cooled? I bet adding a tiny computer fan to the fixture would also really reduce heat addition to the tank.
Thanks. The Hamilton fixture has 2 fans that move a lot of air through them. The fans are actually louder than the tank is running. Tank is peninsula with open stand, and no hood. My tank is glass with a surface are of 84" x 24", and the sump is 48" x 18" I believe. I may look into a smaller chiller just in case unit goes out. a couple hundred dollars could save thousands. Even if it was too small it may keep the temperature manageable until I could get something going.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top