Do I Need To Test for Iodine in This Case?

DiZASTiX

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If you're dosing iodine and potassium because it's part of the 3-part system (the alkalinity component, specifically), do I have to test for it?

If so, is the RedSea Pro Iodine kit accurate enough? BRS recommended the Hanna test kit for Iodine.

Is Salifert's Potassium kit accurate enough?

AquaForest, for the Probiotic Method, similar to the Zeovit method, recommends the following parameters:
  • Salinity: 33–35 ppt
  • Ca: 410–440 ppm
  • Mg: 1230–1320 ppm
  • KH: 6.5–8,0 dKH
  • K: 360–400 ppm

Some reefer also mentioned that testing potassium and ensuring it's sufficiently high is important. Would you kindly weigh in?

Thank you, Randy et al.
 
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Aquaforest Component 1+, 2+, and 3+

I also do add ZEOvit Macro Spur ans AquaForest MicroE per bottle instructions.

Thank you
 
Aquaforest Component 1+, 2+, and 3+

I also do add ZEOvit Macro Spur ans AquaForest MicroE per bottle instructions.

Thank you

I do not know how much of what they add, but I presume that in mixtures where you cannot control things independently, there's little risk of overdose.

It also may not actually boost these, even if it contains them. Using the product could even lower them, despite them being present.

I discuss that here:

The Many Methods for Supplementing Calcium and Alkalinity - REEFEDITION
http://www.reefedition.com/the-many-methods-for-supplementing-calcium-and-alkalinity/

One issue that has confused some reef keepers, however, is the presence of trace elements. Assuming that these products are actually formulated with every ion such that a true natural seawater residue remained (let’s call this the “ideal” product), then it will necessarily contain such ions as copper. Since copper is elevated in some reef tanks, and is toxic to many invertebrates, reef keepers have wrongly criticized this method as adding more copper. That’s actually not what would happen. Since these products leave a natural seawater residue, and since copper may be elevated in concentration in many reef tanks relative to seawater, then using these “ideal” products will actually LOWER copper levels because when the increase in salinity is corrected, the copper will drop.

For example:

You have copper in your aquarium at 4 ppb and salinity of S=35.

You add a two part additive that over the course of a month raises salinity to S=36, and raises copper to 4.02 ppb.

Then you correct the salinity back to S=35 by diluting everything in the tank with fresh water, and you get a final copper concentration of 3.9 ppb.

Does this happen in real products and not “ideal” products? I have no idea. But the statement by manufacturers that it contains all ions in natural ratios, including copper, should not be viewed as a concern that it is exacerbating a heavy metal problem.

The rise in salinity of these products over time can be very roughly calculated, though there are several reasons why this calculation is only an estimate. For every 1000 meq of alkalinity added in this fashion (and the matching amount of calcium) these products will deliver on the order of 60 grams of other ions to the tank. In a tank with a low calcification demand (defined later to be 18.3 thousand meq of alkalinity per year in a 100 gallon tank (0.4 dKH/day)) this effect will raise the salinity by 3 ppt per year (compared to a normal salinity of S ~35). In a high demand tank (defined later to be 219 thousand meq of alkalinity per year in a 100 gallon tank (4.4 dKH/day)), the salinity will rise by 35 ppt in a year, or approximately doubling the salinity. Consequently, the salinity should be monitored closely in using these types of additives, especially in a tank with high calcification rates.
 
If you're dosing iodine and potassium because it's part of the 3-part system (the alkalinity component, specifically), do I have to test for it?

If so, is the RedSea Pro Iodine kit accurate enough? BRS recommended the Hanna test kit for Iodine.

Is Salifert's Potassium kit accurate enough?

AquaForest, for the Probiotic Method, similar to the Zeovit method, recommends the following parameters:
  • Salinity: 33–35 ppt
  • Ca: 410–440 ppm
  • Mg: 1230–1320 ppm
  • KH: 6.5–8,0 dKH
  • K: 360–400 ppm

Some reefer also mentioned that testing potassium and ensuring it's sufficiently high is important. Would you kindly weigh in?

Thank you, Randy et al.

The amount added is an educated guess. There is approximately 0.4gr K in a liter skimmate (400 ppm = 400 mg/l = 0,4 gr/l). If you run a skimmerless system or skim very wet makes a big difference.

It is difficult to tell if aquaforest is adding enough to compensatie for the amount consumed and removed..
 
Thank you, both of you. I hope this is a reasonable action taken:


Based on the response of the both of you, I understand:
  • Aquaforest Component 2+, Aquaforest MicroE, Aquaforest Component A, and ZEOvit ZeoSpur Macro attempt to, but may not be successful at adding iodine and potassium.
  • These products furthermore, either cannot or are unwilling to provide anything beyond a guess of the addition of iodine and potassium.
  • The skimmer will export iodine and potassium based on its setting of wet, dry, or somewhere in between.

I conclude:

  • It will be essential to test personally via kits like Salifert, as well as outsourced, like Aquaforest and Triton.
  • It will be essential to dose iodine and potassium personally, unless by some happenstance, these chemicals are at the correct levels.

Action taken:

  • I purchased Aquaforest Component A, which contains iodine, as well as Potassium Chloride and Disodium Phosphate, both food grade.
 
FWIW, I don’t think skimming is a substantial direct iodine export method. I think it is mostly taken up by organisms, especially algae. Iodine in skimmate may be mostly from phytoplankton skimmed out.
 
If you buy the dry powders;
- potassiumchloride (for Potassium)
- potassiumiodide (for Iodide)

you save money and; can made your own stock solutions or just add x amount of powder to your topoff water. e.g.. if you tank is 100 liters.. and you need to go from 370 ppm to 400 ppm.. for potassium = + 30ppm per liter aquarium water.

30 ppm = 30mg/l = 0,03gr/l. 0,03gr * 100l tank = 3gr potassium needed.
potassiumchloride contains 52,445% potassium. So if you need 3gr potassium, you need to add 3 / 0,52445 = 5,72 grams of potassium chloride.

Have a look at randy's improved 2 part; I personally use this as my basis for Mg/kH/Ca and adjusted it a bit for trace elements.. e.g. you can add potassiumiodide to the kH+ mix and potassiumchloride to the Ca+ mix. (Apart from that I incoporate Mo/Sr/K/B to these stock solutions.. ).
 
Follow up question to everyone:

As advised, my phosphates are consistently absorbed after a few hours, like so. I'm using the Hanna Checker ULR. Are you all dosing then checking a few hours later then dosing then checking? Doesn't that get a bit tedious? (Early on I dosed higher amounts. One time I dosed quite a bit. Later on I'm dosing what would effect around a 0.04 ppm phosphate):

Screen Shot 2018-06-22 at 11.28.01 PM.png
 
Arghh!! I just found this, @Randy Holmes-Farley :

https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/is-aquaforest-the-next-evolution-of-zeolite-use.46/

"It seems counter-productive, as one of zeolites purposes is to remove phosphate. Korallin specifically recommends removing GFO media from any zeovit based system..."

An article from @jeremy.gosnell .. prior post says it all, if @jeremy.gosnell you wish to comment as well. Basically I got onboard the train--and I'm running full Aquaforest + partial ZEOvit. Much to the dismay of @Randy Holmes-Farley .. who in posts warned me against those dang zeolites.

Is this what's happening? My phosphates are constantly being absorbed by the zeolites despite phosphate dosing? So it might be pointless to dose phosphates?


Last question before #REEFAPALOOZA !! I promise!!


.... Because if you're there, I can ask you questions in person hehehe :p:D
 
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