Do these values makes sense?

will25u · Mar 7, 2020

I’m slowly buying new test kits. I just finished testing calcium, alk, and phosphate, and nitrate.

I don’t dose except Aquavitro Fuel or use any reactors. I change water once every two to three weeks. The chemistry part has always kinda eluded me. Tank has been up six years and only two small SPS, JB mushrooms, zoas, Favia, and a softball sized hammer. Two fish residents - gold stripe maroon clown and a blue reef Chromis.

Calcium (Red Sea) 35 drops so 525 ca.
Phosphate (Redsea) 0? It stayed clear and I did it twice. Even watched Red Sea’s video. Why would it remain clear unless my phosphates are indeed super low?
Alk (Salifert) .52 so 7.3
Nitrate is the old API test and it’s a hardcore sunny yellow. I meant to get that test today but sold out.

Mag test leaked so gotta get new one this weekend at Reef Dreams.

I use Fritz salt and added new sand two weeks ago after washing and rinsing

Opinions? I don’t know what I’m doing here. should I do anything?

dankaqua · Mar 8, 2020

Have you tried an ICP test?

I think that's a definitive way to check your parameters and this one allows you to check both your tank water and your RO water:

Pics of your tank and system would be very helpful.

will25u · Mar 8, 2020

No, I haven’t. Ultimately, I’m sure everything is fine. Mainly I don’t understand the phosphate test showing totally zero. If that’s indeed the case, I’ll bring N & P up. My tank is established and stable and I’m happy with that. Just surprised at how much I feed my two fish that I’m not producing mega N&P.

Quietman · Mar 8, 2020

Well, could be test kits...but N and P seem consistent indicators that your nutrients are under control. Agree you want to bring them up a tad. You didn't say what your nutrient export method (s) are but they seem to be working.

will25u · Mar 8, 2020

Hey. Nutrient export relies solely on the skimmer, the wc’s, and the rock. I just added a new rock two weeks ago so it’s the ugly brown one. What’s the most controllable method of raising N and P? I prefer not to get into dosers, etc. I did just feed 3/4 cube of PE mysis ha.

Pic of tank this morning since @dankaqua asked.

dankaqua · Mar 9, 2020

You didn't mention a refugium but by the look of the bio mass in your tank I'd conclude that there is some nitrogen and phosphates being consumed by the coral's Zooxanthellae and any other algae in the tank.

The sand bed can contain relatively high nitrogen concentrations (typically 10 times higher than the water column on coral reef). Nitrate and ammonium (coral reef figures) usuallyranges between 0.05-0.5 mM with Nitrite usually below 1 mM. On a coral reef, that level will basically never go to zero. It's questionable whether it would do so in a stable reef aquarium.

Since test kits have a hard time giving accurate results in ranges close to zero, you probably have very low levels. I would think the only reason to boost those levels are if you are looking for better coral coloration, but I'd be interested in hearing why you'd like to boost N&P.

If you are not running a fuge on reverse (display tank) lighting, then you could try testing your N&P before the lights come on in the morning. Or do the ICP test.

(I'll put the link in here again since the link is broken above):

ICP test kit - amazon.com

will25u · Mar 9, 2020

dankaqua said:
You didn't mention a refugium but by the look of the bio mass in your tank I'd conclude that there is some nitrogen and phosphates being consumed by the coral's Zooxanthellae and any other algae in the tank.

The sand bed can contain relatively high nitrogen concentrations (typically 10 times higher than the water column on coral reef). Nitrate and ammonium (coral reef figures) usuallyranges between 0.05-0.5 mM with Nitrite usually below 1 mM. On a coral reef, that level will basically never go to zero. It's questionable whether it would do so in a stable reef aquarium.

Since test kits have a hard time giving accurate results in ranges close to zero, you probably have very low levels. I would think the only reason to boost those levels are if you are looking for better coral coloration, but I'd be interested in hearing why you'd like to boost N&P.

If you are not running a fuge on reverse (display tank) lighting, then you could try testing your N&P before the lights come on in the morning. Or do the ICP test.

(I'll put the link in here again since the link is broken above):

ICP test kit - amazon.com

Thanks again for your response,@dankaqua. I don’t really have a fuge. I have rear chambers that hold the ato and skimmer. I don’t really know why I’m so concerned. I just figured I’d finally do a mostly complete test and then calcium is high and n & p are so low. Ph is fine. I guess everything is ok really. I just hear over and over don’t run a sterile tank, don’t bottom out your n &p, blah, blah, so it had me concerned, but things are happy. I just upgraded lights so things aren’t as happy as they should be.