Do we have a Zeo guru?

[DannyB]

I am looking for some help from someone who knows the zeo system and products very well and can help me with some chemistry/nutrient issues. If you are willing to help me out please give me a PM.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

What are the issues?

I'm not a zeo guru since they don't tell us exactly what is in most of their products, but we are very good at chemistry issues and how to solve them.

 

[DannyB]

Well I have been running zeovit for about 3 months now, zeolites, zeobak, zeostart, sponge power, coral vitalizer, and was previously using zeofood but have not dosed it and am only going with the above now.

I have always shown 0 phosphate and 0 nitrate on my salifert tests but just got a hanna ULR phosphate checker and it shows i am at 37ppb, which is not ideal correct? I have been having a cyano issue for the past month and at least i now know there are detectable amounts of phosphate so i know how it is here now.

I have heard using cyanoclean and coral snow will help but i am a little confused on how it should be used, conflicting info, and was wondering what others have experienced trying this method, good or bad.

So I am wondering what course of action would be best to combat the cyano when running zeo products? I don't want to go overboard on stripping nutrients from the water but the cyano has got to go.

The cyano is about 98% on the sand and very little in a couple other spots. I have no idea what the phosphate levels have been at in the past since I think the phosphate level I have on the hanna should have been detectable on the salifert but hasn't been.
I have cut back on feeding my 2 mocha clowns to a small pinch every other day and haven't fed any additional coral food for the past month. Other than coral and the 2 clowns I have 2 shrimp and a handful of snails, 1 conch, and a RBTA, not sure how much they add to bioload.

Let me know what you guys think or what information i didn't think to add.

 

[DannyB]

I hope you can see them well enough to see the situation.

 

[kschweer]

Looks more like dinoflagellates to me. Usually manual removal along with increased flow and good parameters is the best option. How old is the tank?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

The phosphate is on the high side, especially if you do have cyano. Too much food relative to the export.

Are you using anything like GFO, or just the zeo products?

 

[DannyB]

Just the zeo products. My skimmer is a bit on the questionable side but hopefully will be rectified on monday depending on shipping.

The tank has been running for about 20 months.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

So an improved skimmer would help since exporting organics is especially helpful for cyano. It is the only way you are exporting phosphate. I'd personally also consider a binder to reduce the phosphate.

More organic carbon dosing is not necessarily the best option when cyano is a problem, despite the fact that it reduces phosphate, because the organics themselves may be consumed by the cyano you have. If improved skimming does not help, I might reduce that. Unfortunately, it is the only way I know of that zeo itself exports phosphate (aside from what you'd get from skimming without organic carbon dosing).

 

[DannyB]

The new skimmer is scheduled to be delivered tomorrow. I will be making a stand of sorts for it tonight so it will be at the proper depth. So it should be wet as quick as i can clean it and assemble. Hopefully break in will be quick.

 

[DannyB]

What would you consider ideal for phosphates?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

What would you consider ideal for phosphates?

Normally, I'd say 0.01 to 0.03 ppm phosphate (3-10 ppb phosphorus), but with cyano, on the lower end of that.

This has more:

Phosphate In The Reef Aquarium: By Randy Holmes-Farley

 

[DannyB]

Excellent thanks for the link. How often should i test to monitor it? Not sure how fast it would normally move.

 

[cee]

There is always the forum by the same name as the product you quoted in the title; excellent forum IMO.

 

[marvelousone]

Have you posted on zeovit forum for help.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

There is always the forum by the same name as the product you quoted in the title; excellent forum IMO.

Yes, they will likely have a lot of useful practical info about the effect of the various zeo products, and perhaps how to reduce cyanobacteria when using them.

I would just caution that, at least in the past, they have not always had an accurate understanding of how those results are attained. For example, for a long time (and maybe still) they claimed that the zeolites bound ammonia and made it more bioavailable to bacteria growing on the zeolites. That just isn't true, IMO.

 

[DannyB]

The phosphate is on the high side, especially if you do have cyano. Too much food relative to the export.

Are you using anything like GFO, or just the zeo products?

How often would you suggest I check my phosphate levels to determine if the situation is improving?

 

[marvelousone]

Have you try coral snow or cyanoclean

 

[TDTA1181]

I used their products minus the expensive reactor & zeolites. If I remember correctly I used 4 ml coral snow for 125g tank every night. The cynao product works well but only had to use it once. Stopped Zeofood it's potent along w/ amino acids.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

How often would you suggest I check my phosphate levels to determine if the situation is improving?

If you do something like adding GFO, I'd track it every couple of days. Usually, once a week is probably adequate, IMO.

 

[DannyB]

So i retested and got 2ppb. In my disbelief, i retested and got 0ppb. Would you think I am doing something wrong in my testing or are the phosphates being used up to where i am getting a low reading? Something else?

I am at a loss here with not knowing what is happening or what i would need to do.