Do you need an RO/DI system for a reef tank?

CLYRIC

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I'm relatively new to saltwater keeping and will be planning on getting a saltwater tank soon. I've always used Fritz Complete which gets rid of ammonia, chlorine, nitrite, nitrate, and heavy metals in the water for my freshwater tanks. I've heard that a RO/DI system is used to remove chlorine and other impurities such as copper in the water. Technically the fritz complete already removes "heavy metals" and other impurities such as ammonia, chlorine, etc anyways, so is a RO/DI system really necessary? Or can I just use my usual fritz complete and then add the salt mix?

Thanks for any response
 
I'm relatively new to saltwater keeping and will be planning on getting a saltwater tank soon. I've always used Fritz Complete which gets rid of ammonia, chlorine, nitrite, nitrate, and heavy metals in the water for my freshwater tanks. I've heard that a RO/DI system is used to remove chlorine and other impurities such as copper in the water. Technically the fritz complete already removes "heavy metals" and other impurities such as ammonia, chlorine, etc anyways, so is a RO/DI system really necessary? Or can I just use my usual fritz complete and then add the salt mix?

Thanks for any response
I think those products just neutralize those impurities, RODI will make water that measures at zero (or near zero) TDS. This means pure water, nothing in it. Using tap water, even if treated with fritz, will leave the water with hundreds of TDS (depending on where you live). Many of these dissolved solids will be compounds that are harmful to our reefs and not found in natural environments. RODI is highly advised although I have heard of successful reefs being run on tap.
 
I'm relatively new to saltwater keeping and will be planning on getting a saltwater tank soon. I've always used Fritz Complete which gets rid of ammonia, chlorine, nitrite, nitrate, and heavy metals in the water for my freshwater tanks. I've heard that a RO/DI system is used to remove chlorine and other impurities such as copper in the water. Technically the fritz complete already removes "heavy metals" and other impurities such as ammonia, chlorine, etc anyways, so is a RO/DI system really necessary? Or can I just use my usual fritz complete and then add the salt mix?

Thanks for any response
IM not familiar with that product, and I've heard people can run tanks successfully without rodi. I guess it also depends how good/bad your source water is.

I would recommend a rodi to alleviate any issues that could arise. And just to have peace of mind that your water is 100% safe.

This is the unit I use, works fine for me. 0 TDS.

Screenshot_20221219_191018_Amazon Shopping.jpg
 
I think those products just neutralize those impurities, RODI will make water that measures at zero (or near zero) TDS. This means pure water, nothing in it. Using tap water, even if treated with fritz, will leave the water with hundreds of TDS (depending on where you live). Many of these dissolved solids will be compounds that are harmful to our reefs and not found in natural environments. RODI is highly advised although I have heard of successful reefs being run on tap.
Got it, also I've looked at the RO/DI systems and there are 75 GPD and 100 GPD, which one would be "worth it" in your opinion?
I've heard some people say that the 75 GPD would be the "most worth it", but I also heard some people say that the 100 GPD is worth it as well but yea, I'm still not sure about this
 
IM not familiar with that product, and I've heard people can run tanks successfully without rodi. I guess it also depends how good/bad your source water is.

I would recommend a rodi to alleviate any issues that could arise. And just to have peace of mind that your water is 100% safe.

This is the unit I use, works fine for me. 0 TDS.

Screenshot_20221219_191018_Amazon Shopping.jpg
Yea, after reading some replies, I'm planning to get a RO/DI system as well, coincidentally the same one as the one you showed. I also looked at the same brand that is 100 GPD instead of 75 GPD, which one is more worth it in your opinion? or does it depend on how big your tank is?
 
Fritz Complete or any other additives do not actually "get rid of" anything. They don't purify water, they just neutralize toxins so your fish can tolerate the water. I've been keeping freshwater tanks for 30+ years and adding any such product just makes the TDS go up and doesn't actually improve the water quality. They're useless for Caridina shrimp tanks, so they won't be any more helpful for saltwater.

That said, you don't necessarily need to buy a system. If your local aquarium shop handles saltwater, they will probably sell you RODI water, which could work for a medium-sized tank. If you have a small enough tank (nano), you can also get away with buying jugs of distilled water OR buying a Zero Water filter pitcher--it's not RODI, but it comes close and you will start with a ~6.4pH and 0 TDS.

Also, saltwater fauna is usually expensive compared to freshwater. You should probably want to invest in at least the minimum in good water to try and keep them alive. :smiling-face:
 
Yea, after reading some replies, I'm planning to get a RO/DI system as well, coincidentally the same one as the one you showed. I also looked at the same brand that is 100 GPD instead of 75 GPD, which one is more worth it in your opinion? or does it depend on how big your tank is?
Per BRS website:

"75 GPD vs 100 GPD

By definition GPD = Gallons Per Day which is the rate at which the system will produce purified 0 TDS RO/DI water. This is ultimately dictated by the membrane combined with the appropriate flow restrictor. There is also a performance difference in that your 75 GPD is the best option to provide a balance between TDS removal and lower DI consumption. The 100 GPD has a slightly less efficient rejection rate meaning you could burn through filters a little faster compared to 75 GPD membrane, but your also producing RO/DI water faster so choose based on what matters to you most."

I don't think the extra 25 'gallons per day' will make or break you. I would suggest the 75gpd personally.
 
Hi, what exactly is TDS? I've just recently started my first cycle, and am not familiar with all these abbreviations...
 
Hi, what exactly is TDS? I've just recently started my first cycle, and am not familiar with all these abbreviations...
Total Dissolved Solids. Less is better. I have a RODI but I’m lazy and don’t use it very often , partly due to fact I live in an apartment with non standard fittings on the faucets and have to go outside and down 2 flights to hook it up to make RODI water. I usually use tap but I’m thinking about getting back to using RODI while the weather outside is warm enough to do it.
 
All you really need for a reef tank is a tank and some salt water. Everything else we use makes it a lot easier. I ran my tank for years with tap water that I put through carbon, then my town added zinc orthophosphate to control corrosion in the pipes and I lost most of my livestock in seconds. But it's up to you.
 
I'm relatively new to saltwater keeping and will be planning on getting a saltwater tank soon. I've always used Fritz Complete which gets rid of ammonia, chlorine, nitrite, nitrate, and heavy metals in the water for my freshwater tanks. I've heard that a RO/DI system is used to remove chlorine and other impurities such as copper in the water. Technically the fritz complete already removes "heavy metals" and other impurities such as ammonia, chlorine, etc anyways, so is a RO/DI system really necessary? Or can I just use my usual fritz complete and then add the salt mix?

Thanks for any response
You believe on advertisements too much. How can you remove anything from the water by adding things to it. “Remove by adding” is an oxymoron.
Fritz can neutralize the toxicity of chlorine, and that is about it.
 
Starting with RODI will eliminate the possibility of contaminants in your reef. Tap water can be used, but is not the best practice. A quality RODI system is an asset to your reef.
 
Total Dissolved Solids. Less is better. I have a RODI but I’m lazy and don’t use it very often , partly due to fact I live in an apartment with non standard fittings on the faucets and have to go outside and down 2 flights to hook it up to make RODI water. I usually use tap but I’m thinking about getting back to using RODI while the weather outside is warm enough to do it.
I believe they make parts so you can tap it into your water line coming in underneath the sink. Might be a easy solution, instead of having to haul buckets up and down stairs.
 
Total Dissolved Solids. Less is better. I have a RODI but I’m lazy and don’t use it very often , partly due to fact I live in an apartment with non standard fittings on the faucets and have to go outside and down 2 flights to hook it up to make RODI water. I usually use tap but I’m thinking about getting back to using RODI while the weather outside is warm enough to do it.
You can usually attach it under a sink or in a shower if you have a connection for a hand held shower head
 
Hi, what exactly is TDS? I've just recently started my first cycle, and am not familiar with all these abbreviations...
Here is an article that tells what a lot of the common abbreviations in the hobby are. It may not be a perfect list, but it should give most of the commonly used acronyms.
 
i'm in the camp that an RODI is a basic piece of reefing gear that i wouldn't consider reefing without.

that said, like others have noted, depends on your water if you need one. you should be able to received a free report on what's in your water from your supplier, unless you have a well. always a good idea to start with that, to see what's in your water at the tap, and make an informed decision about whether or not you need the RODI filter and if so how to best configure it.
 
I run a 75gpd that drains into a 150gpd unit. I can make 5 gallons in about 15-20 mins. Great for quick runs or to fill my 32g brute in a coupme hours not 12. When i ran just a 150g until i flooded the house a few times falling asleep with it running. Same with new setups but i can plan 30-2hr runs and be mindful. Not just start and checking for full until you learn the speed of which you make water
 

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