Does a screen to prevent wrasses from jumping out decrease the light penetration significantly?
- Thread starter Chris86
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erinmegan85
Well-Known Member
As long as it's a screen and not glass it should be fine. Glass can build up gunk and salt creep, and will affect the light coming in if not cleaned.
Ty Hamatake
Hi, my name is Ty and I'm a Reefer...
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+1 on the DIY screen tops from BRS.
One tip of you do get it... lay a towel or some cardboard down (something that won't scratch the paint) and do your cutting on the underside of the frame. If, or when, your blade slips you won't have ugly scratches on the top where everyone can see
One tip of you do get it... lay a towel or some cardboard down (something that won't scratch the paint) and do your cutting on the underside of the frame. If, or when, your blade slips you won't have ugly scratches on the top where everyone can see
coral-boss
Well-Known Member
I learned the hard way about not having a screen on my tank. I lost a wrasse and a hogfish. I'll never have a tank without a screen again. I bought the brs 1/4" screen kit and will have it on every tank in the future. The very small percentage change in light from the net doesn't effect anything in my experience. Maybe 1 or 2 percent? Knowing I won't come home from work and see a $100 fish on the floor is good enough for me. Just my experience and opinion.
No it doesn't effect it much.
What lights do you have.
What lights do you have.
I tested some different screening many years ago. From memory, the par loss was about 10-15%. I'll see if I can dig it up....
5.5k par38 with 12 1watt bulbs
20k nanotuners par 38 with 5 3watt bulbs, 80* optics
sensor 9" from bulb
5.5k no mesh-701
Mesh A (1/4") 560-600 mesh @ 6.5" from bulb
Mesh B (3/16") 560-580 mesh @6.5 from the bulb
Mesh A 505 @2" from the bulb
mesh B 520 @2" from the bulb
sensor 22" from the bulb
5.5k no mesh 134
mesh A 95 bulb 2" from the mesh
mesh B 95 bulb 2" from the mesh
sensor 9" from bulb
20k no mesh-332
Mesh A (1/4") 260-310 mesh @ 6.5" from bulb
Mesh B (3/16") 258-281 mesh @6.5 from the bulb
Mesh A 240-287 @2" from the bulb
mesh B 254-281 @2" from the bulb
sensor 22" from the bulb
20k no mesh 71
mesh A 53 bulb 2" from the mesh
mesh B 57 bulb 2" from the mesh
5.5k par38 with 12 1watt bulbs
20k nanotuners par 38 with 5 3watt bulbs, 80* optics
sensor 9" from bulb
5.5k no mesh-701
Mesh A (1/4") 560-600 mesh @ 6.5" from bulb
Mesh B (3/16") 560-580 mesh @6.5 from the bulb
Mesh A 505 @2" from the bulb
mesh B 520 @2" from the bulb
sensor 22" from the bulb
5.5k no mesh 134
mesh A 95 bulb 2" from the mesh
mesh B 95 bulb 2" from the mesh
sensor 9" from bulb
20k no mesh-332
Mesh A (1/4") 260-310 mesh @ 6.5" from bulb
Mesh B (3/16") 258-281 mesh @6.5 from the bulb
Mesh A 240-287 @2" from the bulb
mesh B 254-281 @2" from the bulb
sensor 22" from the bulb
20k no mesh 71
mesh A 53 bulb 2" from the mesh
mesh B 57 bulb 2" from the mesh
Last edited:
Ty Hamatake
Hi, my name is Ty and I'm a Reefer...
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Ouch. My tipping point wasn't stuff getting out... it was stuff getting in. My two year old decided it would be a good idea to throw a towel in the tank. Of course I was away on business so I get a frantic call from the wife talking about how the skimmer is exploding. Lol I ordered it that night.
cool, thats not bad at all. thanks!
I've been manufacturing these acrylic lids for over five years. the clear screen and acrylic really cuts down on light loss vs bird netting (black) or the aluminum frames brs sells. I can't advertise on here because I'm not a sponsor, just giving you an idea if you're an acrylic guru.
aaron23
Valuable Member
1/4. It literally broke through it. I was surprised myself. My gf heard something splashing on the floor in the morning. I ignored it until I came home from work to see my red tail dried up on the floor.
