Does "Dry Rock" Need Curing?

PaulKreider

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I recently got my rock in for the new 120gallon build and I have a few questions about curing.
Keep in mind, this isn't dry pukani or Fiji rock like that, This is CaribSea South Seas Base Rock
Does this type of rock even need curing? Or just a good rinsing?
My thought process is, it clearly doesn't have any dead matter, like dried up sponges or anything such as rock pulled from reefs and sun dried. This rock is just dusty.
I figured I would rinse it off with RO water, but other than that does it really need a month long curing process?
 
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Some people choose to begin extracting phosphate from it with a tub curing for a while, if that applies. Ive seen that occur even before the began cycling it for typical use
 
^^^ That's what I would suggest. I have had some leach phosphates for months and cause a real headache.
 
Some people choose to begin extracting phosphate from it with a tub curing for a while, if that applies. Ive seen that occur even before the began cycling it for typical use

What im wondering is if there is even existing phostphates to extract,Since the lack of dead organisms which is usually the source of these phosphates if i'm correct?
 
Where did you get your rocks?
My Marco Rocks never leached anything that I could tell. "Curing" them was basically a waste of effort.
 
There could still be material in the rock. I think it would depend on the water flow through the area the rock was mined from and possibly how the rock was stored after mining/excivating.

You could take a piece or two and rise it, then drop it in a bucket of RO for a few days to a week and thest for phosphates to see if it leaches anything and go from there.
 
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That article still mostly touches on dry pukani or previously live rock, still not convinced that this completely dry rock needs to sit in a bucket for 2 months...
 
That article still mostly touches on dry pukani or previously live rock, still not convinced that this completely dry rock needs to sit in a bucket for 2 months...

The reef saver rock did have water running through it. (It wasn't always dry) I was just in the keys and snorkeled in one of these quarries.

It isn't going to take 2 months because it doesn't have die off like pukani, it is just leaching previously absorbed phosphate. Using lanthanum chloride will speed it up in most cases.

Let it sit I'm a bucket RO water for a week then test the phosphate (use fresh saltwater if your test kit doesn't work with fresh water). There is still the possibility of it leaching later on, but it most likely won't be as bad if you get a low to none reading from that test.
 
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that sounds like a good decision. better to err on the safe side. my initial thought was, I'd probably not be concerned with curing it first
 
It may not necessarily produce instant positive phosphate results. It shouldn't take 2 months either. To err on the side of caution, it couldn't hurt to cure it in a bin in case it does leach something, it wouldn't be in your system. Adding a bit of established rock to the bin while curing the dry rock will help speed up the process.
 
I use MarcoRock for most of my builds but haven't use the CaribSea before. However, personally for new systems I rinse heavily and soak in RO/DI water for a night or two. Place in aquarium and seed with Dr. Tim's. I've never noticed excessive PO4 ratings using this method. I've done this several dozen times over past couple years.

I take a step further if adding dry rock to existing tanks by power washing if possible (won't do that when my outdoor temps rival Antarctica) and soaking for a few days longer with a couple 100% WC's in between with fresh 0 ppm TDS RO/DI.

The term "curing" regarding live rock refers to the die off that occurs from all the sponges, tunicates, scallops, etc. that don't like being shipped for prolonged periods. You shouldn't get any of this with dry rock, although I've found bit of algae and dried sponge here and there which is where the rinse/soak practice will come in handy.
 
I use MarcoRock for most of my builds but haven't use the CaribSea before. However, personally for new systems I rinse heavily and soak in RO/DI water for a night or two. Place in aquarium and seed with Dr. Tim's. I've never noticed excessive PO4 ratings using this method. I've done this several dozen times over past couple years.

I take a step further if adding dry rock to existing tanks by power washing if possible (won't do that when my outdoor temps rival Antarctica) and soaking for a few days longer with a couple 100% WC's in between with fresh 0 ppm TDS RO/DI.

The term "curing" regarding live rock refers to the die off that occurs from all the sponges, tunicates, scallops, etc. that don't like being shipped for prolonged periods. You shouldn't get any of this with dry rock, although I've found bit of algae and dried sponge here and there which is where the rinse/soak practice will come in handy.

Thanks for sharing your experience, I planned on rinsing it with RO forsure, I guess I'll soak each piece for a few days too!
 
I am stuck between what to do. I have 100lbs. of Marco Dry Rock and not sure whether to rinse and put it right into the tank or to Put it in a brute bin with RODI Saltwater and let it sit for a few weeks
 
To help
That is a choice between in tank or external curing. To do it in tank means you hand guide more, stay busy, exchanging water and guiding early brown and algae growths off the rocks

Do not let the system early seed with endless unnecessary algae and diatoms remove them out, stay busy. You could actually keep some life in the tank to enjoy while guiding, few things we keep mind big water changes and good tank feeding. Your substrate has to mature purple before it self guides very well.
 

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