Does External Bracing Add much Strength to Aquarium Seams?

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The further along my tank gets the more I envision suicide as the only option to a seam failure ;). I'm not thrilled with the seam quality on my tank and would like to do whatever I can to prevent any issues in the future. Tank is 6' x 2' x 2' (165g) with euro bracing and custom external steel perimeter frame on top but no internal bottom or side bracing. I'm thinking of adding external steel frames to the bottom seam and potentially side seams as well to add strength. I'd use steel angle stock on the corners and a flat steel bracing on the bottom that wraps around the sides. All would be powder coated to match my top frame and prevent corrosion.

What do you think? Wast of effort or would this add a good deal of strength to the seams?

Please note: there is nothing actually wrong with my tank. I'm just curious what kind of strength external steel bracing can provide. I've seen it on a few tank and am interested in adding it as a precaution only, and in no way to fix an already broken or suspect seam.
 
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I think if you dont trust your tank, get another tank.

i wouldn't drive my car if I didn't have 100% confidence in my braking system

Lol. Not in a million years. The amount of hours and money I have into this build is crazy. If this tank breaks I'm out for quite a while. There is nothing actually wrong with the tank and the seams are fine. I'm just paranoid with anything less than reef savvy quality :p. I was new to large tanks when I got this tank and didn't really appreciate bottom perimeter bracing and other strength features offered by top manufactures at the time I got it.
 
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I
1/2" glass and lots of photos in build thread linked below. Thanks

I would not worry at all. I have built a few 100g tanks so I feel I know a little about the construction techniques. For a tank that size 1/2" glass is good, very little if any bowing and plenty of surface area for the seams. The silicone used by professional tank builders is incredibly strong. What don't you like about the seams? I really doubt that you need a frame plus euro bracing on the top. I would be tempted to remove the frame for appearance sake but if it gives you comfort that is also important.
 
I


I would not worry at all. I have built a few 100g tanks so I feel I know a little about the construction techniques. For a tank that size 1/2" glass is good, very little if any bowing and plenty of surface area for the seams. The silicone used by professional tank builders is incredibly strong. What don't you like about the seams? I really doubt that you need a frame plus euro bracing on the top. I would be tempted to remove the frame for appearance sake but if it gives you comfort that is also important.

Okay that's good to know. So here are a few of the reasons I'm interested in these precautionary measures. What do you think?

I added the top frame since the rear panel was bowing more than I'd like to see. Luckily I love the look of the custom powder coated top frame which eliminates the bow. It also covers all the ugly condensation under the euro brace .

Before:
bow.jpg

After:

IMG_20181209_103401.jpg

2 (1).jpg

Some other concerns:.

This is by fare the worst of it, but the seams have some bubbles in places.
bubbles.jpg

Not sure this is really an issue since the inside of the seam is clean, but goes to show the quality of this tank.

seam.jpg

Bottom glass wasn't cut perfect straight so the center of the panel is raised a bit which doesn't give me the full strength of seam. The sides of the panels are flush, however.

bottom.jpg

No silicon between euro brace (just on top), but the frame I added already strengthened this sufficiently.

euro.jpg
 
I have to agree that is not the best looking job but seam is not a big deal. The seam has a little air pocket but that isn't going to cause a problem.

The bowing really doesn't look bad and I would imagine it is well within spec. Believe it or not glass can move quite a bit. If you were going to have problems I think you would see the seams pulling.

The other seam in the pic looks to me like it is what I refer to as the inside seam which has no structural purpose. They usually get beat up from algae scrapers. They are just a result of not being able to get all of the silicone out of the inside corners.

I don't know what to say about the bottom seam. I think I kind of see a minuscule gap but obviously there is silicone in there or you would not have water in the tank. It is nice to have silicone less than 1mm and consistent but that doesn't always happen. I have built tanks where it wasn't the perfect thickness from top to bottom because I put a little to much pressure on place but that never caused a problem. I built my tanks with a gap under the bottom panel and the sides would over lap the bottom instead of sitting on it. I haven't seen many tanks built that way but it eliminates the need to put foam under the tank to even out the pressure. If my glass wasn't cut just perfect I would not have noticed it.

All in all I would not mess with putting any additional bracing but that is just me. The top brace looks nice and the tank as a whole looks very good.
 
I have to agree that is not the best looking job but seam is not a big deal. The seam has a little air pocket but that isn't going to cause a problem.

The bowing really doesn't look bad and I would imagine it is well within spec. Believe it or not glass can move quite a bit. If you were going to have problems I think you would see the seams pulling.

The other seam in the pic looks to me like it is what I refer to as the inside seam which has no structural purpose. They usually get beat up from algae scrapers. They are just a result of not being able to get all of the silicone out of the inside corners.

I don't know what to say about the bottom seam. I think I kind of see a minuscule gap but obviously there is silicone in there or you would not have water in the tank. It is nice to have silicone less than 1mm and consistent but that doesn't always happen. I have built tanks where it wasn't the perfect thickness from top to bottom because I put a little to much pressure on place but that never caused a problem. I built my tanks with a gap under the bottom panel and the sides would over lap the bottom instead of sitting on it. I haven't seen many tanks built that way but it eliminates the need to put foam under the tank to even out the pressure. If my glass wasn't cut just perfect I would not have noticed it.

All in all I would not mess with putting any additional bracing but that is just me. The top brace looks nice and the tank as a whole looks very good.

Very much appreciate the thoughtful response. I have a bit more confidence in the tank now. Thank you!
 
The further along my tank gets the more I envision suicide as the only option to a seam failure ;). I'm not thrilled with the seam quality on my tank and would like to do whatever I can to prevent any issues in the future. Tank is 6' x 2' x 2' (165g) with euro bracing and custom external steel perimeter frame on top but no internal bottom or side bracing. I'm thinking of adding external steel frames to the bottom seam and potentially side seams as well to add strength. I'd use steel angle stock on the corners and a flat steel bracing on the bottom that wraps around the sides. All would be powder coated to match my top frame and prevent corrosion.

What do you think? Wast of effort or would this add a good deal of strength to the seams?

Please note: there is nothing actually wrong with my tank. I'm just curious what kind of strength external steel bracing can provide. I've seen it on a few tank and am interested in adding it as a precaution only, and in no way to fix an already broken or suspect seam.
Did you ever end up bracing the outside of the tanks seams? I just got a tank second hand and wanted to reinforce the seams with angle iron but I can’t find anyone else that’s attempted it
 

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