Does my blue hippo tang have Ich?

Throughout the thread you mention your Hippo, but just to make sure, you did move the group of anthias and ALL other fish into the QT for treatment didn't you? Just checking...
 
Two problems:
  1. You need to treat with copper for 4 weeks and then observe afterwards to ensure symptoms of ich do not return.
  2. You should go fallow (fishless) in the DT for 76 days to starve ich out of there.

IMO you should keep the same thing going for at least 72 days... I know you miss her being in the display as well as the other fish but I am speaking from experience... Better safe than sorry...

Throughout the thread you mention your Hippo, but just to make sure, you did move the group of anthias and ALL other fish into the QT for treatment didn't you? Just checking...

+1 +1 +1 I agree with all of this
 
Thanks everyone. What a nightmare. I'm ok keeping her out but going fallow will be a challenge especially for my Mandarin. I have some planning to do if I'm going to make this work because my 10 gallon HT is not big enough for 9 fish.
 
The petco sale ended so I'll grab a setup off Craigslist I think. Question regarding the Mandarin goby. Won't any copepods die in the copper HT? How can I feed him for 76 days?
 
The petco sale ended so I'll grab a setup off Craigslist I think. Question regarding the Mandarin goby. Won't any copepods die in the copper HT? How can I feed him for 76 days?

Yes and you won't be able to treat a mandy in copper either. They tolerate Chloroquine phosphate, tank transfer method or hyposalinity much better. You can feed Nutramar ova, baby brine shrimp, ROE and live blackworms while in QT. Or rehome him to a LFS and get another one after the fallow period has ended.
 
Throughout the thread you mention your Hippo, but just to make sure, you did move the group of anthias and ALL other fish into the QT for treatment didn't you? Just checking...

No I only moved the Hippo. The LFS I got the copper and medicated food from said get her out and monitor the others. At this point, it seems all that did was fix the immediate problem to save her and buy me time to figure out how to treat all the tank inhabitants.
 
No I only moved the Hippo. The LFS I got the copper and medicated food from said get her out and monitor the others. At this point, it seems all that did was fix the immediate problem to save her and buy me time to figure out how to treat all the tank inhabitants.

Don't put her back until you have removed all the other fish and the tank has been fishless for 76 days. She will just get reinfected if she goes in before this is done.
 
Don't put her back until you have removed all the other fish and the tank has been fishless for 76 days. She will just get reinfected if she goes in before this is done.

Got it. I'm going to get a 40 gallon breeder setup in my basement and then move all of them minus the Mandarin. I can put him in the 10 gallon setup I have and do one of the other non-copper treatments on him.

At this rate I should be back to normal by summer lol. Thanks for all your advice.
 
Quick update. I picked up a 40 gallon breeder setup with stand, heater, filter and light for $80 today off Craigslist. It's only 4 months old. A steal!!!

Cleaned it up and will get it running tomorrow. Ordered MarinePure bio balls for media and Dr. Tim's one and only for seeding the bacteria. Figure I should be good to go by next weekend if all goes according to plan.

So I have 2 gobies. One Mandarin and one Firefish. One of you said they don't respond well to Cupramine. I couldn't find anything online to verify. Just wanted to double check to avoid setting up 2 HT's. Let me know what you think. Thanks!!! #heckofajourney
 
That's the mandarin goby. You won't want to put her through copper. TTM, CP or Hypo is better for her.

Ok thanks. Just the Mandarin then. I'll setup the 10 gallon for her and see if I can find CP treatment. Where do you get it at the LFS? I couldn't see much online at the normal outlets.
 
Ok thanks. Just the Mandarin then. I'll setup the 10 gallon for her and see if I can find CP treatment. Where do you get it at the LFS? I couldn't see much online at the normal outlets.

You'll have to find a vet to prescribe it to you and have it filled at a pharmacy. There is an online pharmacy that has been vetted and has good prices as well. If you get the scrip then fill it at http://www.diamondbackdrugs.com/
 
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Also, would it be better to treat all the fish with CP so I don't have to setup 2 HT's?
I wouldn't and the reason is purity. Diamondback has pure, medical grade CP which makes it easier to know exactly how much base you are getting with it, which then makes it easier to know you have the therapuetic dose in the QT. Others are mostly sourced from China where the purity is suspect at best.
 
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I wouldn't and the reason is purity. Diamondback has pure, medical grade CP which makes it easier to know exactly how much base you are getting with it, which then makes it easier to know you have the therapuetic dose in the QT. Others are mostly sourced from China where the purity is suspect at best.

Gotcha. So if I can score some CP can I do all the fish... clowns, blue hippo, yellow tang, firefish, Mandarin and Lyretail Anthias?
 
Gotcha. So if I can score some CP can I do all the fish... clowns, blue hippo, yellow tang, firefish, Mandarin and Lyretail Anthias?

Welllll, at that point the Hippo would be the one that is outed. It's been done, and is being done currently by a reefer here on R2R with no bad side effects, but the blue hippo is on the list to avoid using CP with. There have been several instances where the blue hippo just withered and died in CP. Up to you in the end if you wanna chance it. You could always try it and take him out for copper treatment if you see negative side effects.
 
Perhaps hyposalinity is the better option then. What is the target salinity reading for that treatment?
 
Perhaps hyposalinity is the better option then. What is the target salinity reading for that treatment?

1.009 for 30 days. Salinity must not fluctuate. So, using a recently calibrated refractometer and ATO are both highly recommended.
 

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