Does my tank need a brace?

Jvesche20

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I’m currently in the process of getting everything ready for a build. I got glass super cheap from a guy on Facebook. I plan on using scs1200 silicone and having the tank drilled in the back. The glass is 1/2 inch thick on sides and 5/8 inch thick on the bottom. When he gave me the glass he gave me 3 top braces. The picture attached is a bad picture but it’s what he sent me of what his tank looked like before he broke it down. He didn’t give me a reason why it’s broken down but it looks fine to me. Now my question is do I need these top braces like the picture attached? Will they even help or can I go without? I would love to have a rimless tank with no braces

7509D5BA-4F30-42E6-8A9F-51644FC06911.jpeg
 
I know the picture isn’t the best but there’s 3 glass panes. One in the middle that’s 17” long I believe and the other ones are on the corners and I haven’t measured them yet. There is no trim like in the picture
 
The problem with the picture is that it is a snapshot from off of your computer screen. Save the picture to your computer and then upload it here for a better look.

I would be interested in knowing how long the tank was assembled and holding water. I think it will hold water at first, but will it stand the test of time?

A well designed canopy can serve as a brace.
 
+1 on needing the braces. I had a tank built to about the same dimensions as yours, with 1/2" glass, and the builder would not even consider anything less than eurobracing all around. If you don't like that middle brace, you might be able to DIY eurobracing to replace it ...
 
The problem with the picture is that it is a snapshot from off of your computer screen. Save the picture to your computer and then upload it here for a better look.

I would be interested in knowing how long the tank was assembled and holding water. I think it will hold water at first, but will it stand the test of time?

A well designed canopy can serve as a brace.
The picture is what the guy who I got the glass from. He showed me that it was once a tank but he took it apart for whatever reason. so I do not have an actual picture of the tank. Its all just glass panes right now and im going to build a tank. But I will add a brace seems like everyone is saying to add the brace
 
The picture is what the guy who I got the glass from. He showed me that it was once a tank but he took it apart for whatever reason. so I do not have an actual picture of the tank. Its all just glass panes right now and im going to build a tank. But I will add a brace seems like everyone is saying to add the brace

Ah... I understand now...

Yes.. I agree... some bracing is in order. I think it's better to be safe than sorry.
 
I know its a really bad picture but would the top 3 glass panes siliconed across be enough?

I'm not sure. I lean toward no; it wouldn't be enough. Unless I'm looking at it incorrectly, you are relying on the strength of the silicon to hold the pressure of the water pushing out.
 
I'm not sure. I lean toward no; it wouldn't be enough. Unless I'm looking at it incorrectly, you are relying on the strength of the silicon to hold the pressure of the water pushing out.



Just saw this on an old post not sure if its super accurate.

Now you're just getting silly. The GE SCS1200 mentioned by @Ryben has a tensile strength of 430lb/in versus the Momentive RTV100 series at only 400lb/in. That's 7.50% additional which on your scale is a fair bit especially considering the surface area we're talking about. I think this is moot however given it's overbuilt and not your main weakness. Much like a chain you are only as strong as your weakest link.

Using 3/4" as you're planning will give you 191.25 linear inches of glass to be connected with a surface area of 143.44in². At430psi you have 61,679lbs of holding force! Your prospective aquarium is roughly 126 gallons once you subtract the glass thickness which means your water is roughly 1,284lbs at 1.026sg. At this size and thickness the euro brace is going to do more for your mind than it will your tank.

Your likely failure point is not the silicone. It's probably the impact resistance of the glass. If you want to sleep better at night consider a liner of polycarbonate for the bottom and a nice foam pad for the tank to rest on to prevent any unnecessary forces.

This person is building a tank and debating whether or not to use scs1200 silicone or something else. The only difference is the person is using 3/4" glass and I have 1/2" he thinks the euro brace isnt going to do anything. I'm just trying to figure out how he got the linear inches and the surface area. my calculations arent matching up with his. I would like to see what the numbers would be for my build
 
I agree you definitely need a brace for 1/2" glass at that length and depth. I think the end braces are unnecessary, but you need something in the center or every 2 feet. The 17" center brace is basically the same as the old Oceanic 180, so I am sure it would work assuming it is also 1/2". You could probably get by with two 6-8" wide 1/2" thick braces at 2 and 4 foot centers which would make the tank more accessible. Eurobracing is an option but it will be very expensive for those long slender front and back braces.
 
I agree you definitely need a brace for 1/2" glass at that length and depth. I think the end braces are unnecessary, but you need something in the center or every 2 feet. The 17" center brace is basically the same as the old Oceanic 180, so I am sure it would work assuming it is also 1/2". You could probably get by with two 6-8" wide 1/2" thick braces at 2 and 4 foot centers which would make the tank more accessible. Eurobracing is an option but it will be very expensive for those long slender front and back braces.
I believe it is 1/2" glass. so should I move the 2 end pieces to the 2 and 4 ft mark?
 
Yes, that is what I would do. I would test it by first filling it in a safe location, but it should work. Pay very close attention to the overall support of your stand. I believe most tank failures are the result of unequal support around the base. You might still want to keep the side braces only for supporting a lid or screen if you do not have a top trim and the braces are sized to go inside of the tank rather than the top of the glass. I believe your picture shows a top trim.
 
Yes, that is what I would do. I would test it by first filling it in a safe location, but it should work. Pay very close attention to the overall support of your stand. I believe most tank failures are the result of unequal support around the base. You might still want to keep the side braces only for supporting a lid or screen if you do not have a top trim and the braces are sized to go inside of the tank rather than the top of the glass. I believe your picture shows a top trim.
I have a workshop in the basement that I'm going to work with. Going to keep the tank in the basement so I figured I'll work on it down there. I'll have to clear everything off the ground worst case the tank explodes. Its concrete so not too worried but almost 200 gallons on the floor might be bad. It's just going to be too hard to carry 180 gallon tank from the garage through the house and down the basement. The way my basement door is facing makes it super hard to get anything large down there. When I got my 125 gallon tank it barely fit and took 5 people. Couldnt imagine what 180 would be like. I think the stand is pretty solid I'll take a picture when I get home. I will definitely need to add some 2x4 to the back to support the back. The back is all open.

The glass is made to go on top of the tank. The only thing is if I do put the 2 pieces at 2 and 4 ft what will I do with the large one? I can't really cut it in half. Glass is too thick. I do have a glass cutter but I dont think it will work very well on 1/2" glass. I get home in a few hours I'll look at it again when I get home
 

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