Does this Green BTA look ok?

[dedragon]

Honestly light shouldnt be a huge problem then especially if the aquascape is very high. Light needed for anemones (IMO 120+ par levels) which should be met around 12 inches away from the light. Again how long has the tank been up though? Cipro treatment is a thing too but I would ask Orion or a couple other members before using that

 

[bherbold8]

agree with others about OP light, is probably too weak and tank too new. Fluval lights suck for light output

Sometimes "tank too new" can be a bit misleading . If his parameters are stable and healthy 9 months shouldn't be too new to purchase an anemone

 

[averagesteve]

Honestly light shouldnt be a huge problem then especially if the aquascape is very high. Light needed for anemones (IMO 120+ par levels) which should be met around 12 inches away from the light. Again how long has the tank been up though? Cipro treatment is a thing too but I would ask Orion or a couple other members before using that

Tank been up 9 months now. I realize now that is considered early for a nem.

 

[OREGONIC]

You posted your parameters, are those stable or are they fluctuating? How often are you testing and what test kits are you using? PO4 may be a little high at .2 but not crazy high and many have mature tanks that do ok at that level. Lighting could be a cause but I would think the nem would just climb higher for more light if he wanted it unless something like direct flow upsets him up higher. Has the nem been moving around alot? I also believe there is a little truth when it comes to nems and tank maturity but it has more to do with experience as a seasoned reefer can likely house a nem in a tank that is just a few months old. Fluctuations seem to slow how quick tanks balance, if you have many fluctuations you will have many organisms out competing each other changing often.

 

[bherbold8]

You posted your parameters, are those stable or are they fluctuating? How often are you testing and what test kits are you using? PO4 may be a little high at .2 but not crazy high and many have mature tanks that do ok at that level. Lighting could be a cause but I would think the nem would just climb higher for more light if he wanted it unless something like direct flow upsets him up higher. Has the nem been moving around alot? I also believe there is a little truth when it comes to nems and tank maturity but it has more to do with experience as a seasoned reefer can likely house a nem in a tank that is just a few months old. Fluctuations seem to slow how quick tanks balance, if you have many fluctuations you will have many organisms out competing each other changing often.

Good post ! Stability is key . At 9 months you should be seeing some coralline growth , decent indicator of a stable system

 

[sfin52]

In my humble opinion in run a fluval marine and a fluval 1st generation for a reef tank. Had them running for a while. Coral and cooling grew but not fast. I switched to a to when the 1st gen went out. Growth picked up and so did the Coralie. Switched in 2020

 

[averagesteve]

You posted your parameters, are those stable or are they fluctuating? How often are you testing and what test kits are you using? PO4 may be a little high at .2 but not crazy high and many have mature tanks that do ok at that level. Lighting could be a cause but I would think the nem would just climb higher for more light if he wanted it unless something like direct flow upsets him up higher. Has the nem been moving around alot? I also believe there is a little truth when it comes to nems and tank maturity but it has more to do with experience as a seasoned reefer can likely house a nem in a tank that is just a few months old. Fluctuations seem to slow how quick tanks balance, if you have many fluctuations you will have many organisms out competing each other changing often.

I usually test once or twice a week using the Red Sea test kits. The only things that usually ever change are the PH ranges from 8.1 to 8.3 and the Alk ranges from like 7 to 11, which could also be why the PH changes? Started with 100% dry rock that was all white, and now some of it is starting to take a pink/small spots of purple hue which I assume is coralline.

Edit: I also have a terrible cyano problem that I'm working on right now, if that matters.

 

[bherbold8]

I usually test once or twice a week using the Red Sea test kits. The only things that usually ever change are the PH ranges from 8.1 to 8.3 and the Alk ranges from like 7 to 11, which could also be why the PH changes? Started with 100% dry rock that was all white, and now some of it is starting to take a pink/small spots of purple hue which I assume is coralline.

Edit: I also have a terrible cyano problem that I'm working on right now, if that matters.

Alk swings too large , that's a big problem for organisms in the tank .

 

[bherbold8]

Have you said what the rest of the tank stock consists of ?

 

[averagesteve]

Alk swings too large , that's a big problem for organisms in the tank .

Have you said what the rest of the tank stock consists of ?

The alk was stable at 9 for awhile, just recently it had a little swing. I will try to get that under control. The rest of the stock is:

2 ocellaris clownfish
1 firefish goby
1 yellow watchman goby

and I am likely done adding fish as it's only a 32.5 gallon tank.

 

[dvgyfresh]

The alk was stable at 9 for awhile, just recently it had a little swing. I will try to get that under control. The rest of the stock is:

2 ocellaris clownfish
1 firefish goby
1 yellow watchman goby

and I am likely done adding fish as it's only a 32.5 gallon tank.

Alk swings from 7-11 is pretty big for anemones , I try to keep mine 8.8-9.5 dkh also salinity swings would make them angry I recently brang mine too high at 1.027 I usually aim for 1.025 so I need to take out water and replace with rodi to lower

 

[averagesteve]

Alk swings from 7-11 is pretty big for anemones , I try to keep mine 8.8-9.5 dkh also salinity swings would make them angry I recently brang mine too high at 1.027 I usually aim for 1.025 so I need to take out water and replace with rodi to lower

Thanks, I'm going to raise my dkh by like .5 every day using marine buffer until it's at 9 then I'll test every day and try to keep it stable from there. I confirmed in the group specifically for this tank, that many people have the same light and have kept these anemones with absolutely no issue. I posted the pictures of it there also and a few people agree that it's either a water quality issue or a flow issue. I'm a little low on salt, I am also a little low on salt, so I just ordered enough salt to keep me set for awhile. I'm going to dump all of my RODI and filter all new, confirm it's 0 TDS then mix up and maybe do like 10% water change every 3-4 days until more stable? or what kind of water change schedule should I do to improve water quality? I have been doing 10% like every other week since I was low on salt.

 

[OREGONIC]

I usually test once or twice a week using the Red Sea test kits. The only things that usually ever change are the PH ranges from 8.1 to 8.3 and the Alk ranges from like 7 to 11, which could also be why the PH changes? Started with 100% dry rock that was all white, and now some of it is starting to take a pink/small spots of purple hue which I assume is coralline.

Edit: I also have a terrible cyano problem that I'm working on right now, if that matters.

That is a large alk swing. You want to keep you alk swings very minimal. Any swing larger then 1.0 is big in my opinion, and really should strive to swings less then .5. Your ph swing is not a big deal, and in range of many tanks daily swing. Are you using water changes as your main method of nutrient reduction and alk/cal dosing? If so you really need to pick a salt that matches the alk of where you are keeping your tank. This allows for large water changes in emergencies with little to no effect on the tanks alk. If your tank is consuming alk at a noticeable level it may be time to start dosing. It can be as easy as adding a little kalkwasser to your top off water. Stability is key and stability of alk is the most important thing in keeping a happy reef. For a newer reefer I think focusing on keeping alk stable should be the goal, as long as you are dosing alk and cal in equal balanced proportions you dont really need to track cal very often. Test nutrients and as they creep up do a water change, just make sure the alk of your replacement saltwater matches the alk of your tank.

 

[averagesteve]

I have an update for the nem. So the other night it started to move towards a bottom cave under the rock at the very bottom and shriveled up quiet a bit. It actually seemed to be going after a snail (or the snail kept going in it?) either way, something was up. I got the snail out of the mouth area and got a raw piece of fresh shrimp and cut a sliver off about the size of it's mouth and put it into the shriveled up tentacles. It's now about an hour later and the piece of shrimp has been almost completely consumed by the mouth and the tentacles are actually looking fuller and a little bit bubblier than the original picture, tho it's current location makes it hard to get a picture of.

I also did a 15% water change as my salt came today, and will continue to do 10% every couple days because I think something is a little off with the water even tho it's testing ok.