Does this look like the basic equipment needed to start a tank?
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Philly Reefer
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As I said, I don't trust my ammonia test from API.
The ammonia and Nitrate are the only 2 you will be testing throughout your reef life. API nitrate is not accurate enough. Not just 0, 5, then 10.
You will want everything in between.
Oo the pH will be useful too. But still... Range are too broad
SPitts6654
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They also gave a reef kit that covers others. That kit will be good enough to get you through your cycle, but you’ll only use the nitrate from that kit afterwards. If you’re going to do coral, you’ll need to check the others as well. You can always get that down the road, but I wouldn’t get API, it maybe top for freshwater, but it’s definitely not for a reef tank.
Philly Reefer
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Yes.... I said that earlier... And I did that too.
Philly Reefer
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You need to test Alkalinity, Calcium, magnesium.
If you want the best for Alk, Hanna.
Calcium, I also use hanna but some reported that hanna is not accurate.
I need to buy magnesium test. According to BRS, Aquaforest is their 2019 choice for that.
So if you want to buy a set, RedSea Foundation Test kit
Yes
Once the tank has cycled you dont need to test for ammonia. Unless something dies in the tank the rock will process all the ammonia that a few fish will generate.
You dont need a test kit if you take a water sample to your LFS and have them do it. If you are doing 5 gallon water changes every week with a good salt mix then testing can be done once a month by them. Test a lot in the begining, then once you have it established, not so much testing is needed. Plus easy to keep corals are more forgiving of changes in water.
You will need to test alkalinity, calcium, magnesium on a regular basis if you wish to keep some LPS or SPS coral.
Test kits:
Salfert for cal and mag
Hanna for alk and phos
Red Sea Pro for nitrate
These are prob the best choices but will require a bit of money.
Depending on your tap water an RO can be just fine. Do you know the TDS of your tap water?
An RO unit will remove 95% to 98% of the tds. 0 tds into the tank is the best. As you get closer to 5 tds you might have issues depending on whats in your water. There are tanks that are run on tap water so its not an easy question to answer
Philly Reefer
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There are some ppl that says they are fine with using tap water directly (with using water conditioner of course) but you will be more successful with an RODI 0 TDS water.
Refractometer is to test your salt water content. Totally different with alk test.
Alkalinity is for coral growth.
tanked4u
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I have been keeping a Biocube 32 LED for the past 2.5 years. I love it. It is a great intro to the hobby while keeping costs in check, somewhat.
Here are a few of my recommendations/random thoughts:
- I used dry rock with live sand to seed my system. The cycle took about 2-3 weeks.
- I used Dr. Tim's Ammonia during the cycle. It is superior to the rotten food method because you know exactly how much ammonia is going into your tank.
- The stock return pump is okay at first, but I recommend adding another pump or upgrading the return pump to get better flow. It will help your corals and keep your tank clean.
- Slowly, very slowly add fish and corals to your tank. This will allow you time to observe any changes to your system and adapt as needed.
- A regular weekly 5 gallon water change will solve most if not all of your problems for the first year+.
- I used RO water from my grocery store for the first couple of years before purchasing a BRS system. This purchase was driven primarily due to COVID shutting down my grocery store's machine. I have been happy with the BRS system, but I don't think you need it day one. You could also buy RO/DI from your local fish store as an option. My LFS charges $.31/gallon for just the water.
- Start off with some soft corals (e.g., a toadstool, ricordea mushrooms and some zoas/palys). Once you have coraline algae growing, you can add LPS, such as blastos and/or hammer corals. I have yet to find an LPS/soft coral that I cannot grow in my Biocube. The stock lights get the job done.
- I do not use an ATO. I check the water level every night when I feed my fish and add water as needed. Some nights I do not need to add any water. Caveat - My tank is in the basement which is the opposite of a dry environment. If you live in a desert or something, your mileage may vary.
- Throw out the Biocube filter cartridge. It is really overpriced for what it is, activated carbon and filter floss. Instead purchase some carbon and media bag(s) from BRS and filter floss from inTank. I would also recommend purchasing a media basket from inTank.
- I used the ATI testing kit for my first year+. It is not great, but it is sufficient for what you will have in your tank initially.
- As you you SLOWLY add LPS corals, you will hit a point where they start to look a little sad. This is your queue to start thinking about testing and adding Alk and Calc to your system. I now add about 5 ml of Alk and Calc each night, and I have a lot of LPS in the my tank. My magnesium is still handled by the water changes.
- I purchased a Tunze nano skimmer early on and have been happy with it. I don't think it is completely necessary right out of the gate, but it does give you a little bit of buffer for keeping your tank parameters in order.
- I know this seems crazy, but you should really consider setting up a 10 gallon quarantine tank, too. I have struggled with some fish deaths that I contribute almost fully to my initially poor quarantine and social acclimation practices. This does not need to be anything elaborate: 10g tank, heater, hang-on-back filter, a desk lamp on a timer, and PVC pipes.
- Once you hit a critical mass of fish/corals in your tank, you should consider adding a backup battery/return pump to your system. I went with an Innovative Marine DC pump + IceCap battery combo. These are reasonably priced and get the job done for 24 hour power outages.
Good luck starting off! It is a fantastic hobby, but please understand it will demand some of your time and money.
Here are a few of my recommendations/random thoughts:
- I used dry rock with live sand to seed my system. The cycle took about 2-3 weeks.
- I used Dr. Tim's Ammonia during the cycle. It is superior to the rotten food method because you know exactly how much ammonia is going into your tank.
- The stock return pump is okay at first, but I recommend adding another pump or upgrading the return pump to get better flow. It will help your corals and keep your tank clean.
- Slowly, very slowly add fish and corals to your tank. This will allow you time to observe any changes to your system and adapt as needed.
- A regular weekly 5 gallon water change will solve most if not all of your problems for the first year+.
- I used RO water from my grocery store for the first couple of years before purchasing a BRS system. This purchase was driven primarily due to COVID shutting down my grocery store's machine. I have been happy with the BRS system, but I don't think you need it day one. You could also buy RO/DI from your local fish store as an option. My LFS charges $.31/gallon for just the water.
- Start off with some soft corals (e.g., a toadstool, ricordea mushrooms and some zoas/palys). Once you have coraline algae growing, you can add LPS, such as blastos and/or hammer corals. I have yet to find an LPS/soft coral that I cannot grow in my Biocube. The stock lights get the job done.
- I do not use an ATO. I check the water level every night when I feed my fish and add water as needed. Some nights I do not need to add any water. Caveat - My tank is in the basement which is the opposite of a dry environment. If you live in a desert or something, your mileage may vary.
- Throw out the Biocube filter cartridge. It is really overpriced for what it is, activated carbon and filter floss. Instead purchase some carbon and media bag(s) from BRS and filter floss from inTank. I would also recommend purchasing a media basket from inTank.
- I used the ATI testing kit for my first year+. It is not great, but it is sufficient for what you will have in your tank initially.
- As you you SLOWLY add LPS corals, you will hit a point where they start to look a little sad. This is your queue to start thinking about testing and adding Alk and Calc to your system. I now add about 5 ml of Alk and Calc each night, and I have a lot of LPS in the my tank. My magnesium is still handled by the water changes.
- I purchased a Tunze nano skimmer early on and have been happy with it. I don't think it is completely necessary right out of the gate, but it does give you a little bit of buffer for keeping your tank parameters in order.
- I know this seems crazy, but you should really consider setting up a 10 gallon quarantine tank, too. I have struggled with some fish deaths that I contribute almost fully to my initially poor quarantine and social acclimation practices. This does not need to be anything elaborate: 10g tank, heater, hang-on-back filter, a desk lamp on a timer, and PVC pipes.
- Once you hit a critical mass of fish/corals in your tank, you should consider adding a backup battery/return pump to your system. I went with an Innovative Marine DC pump + IceCap battery combo. These are reasonably priced and get the job done for 24 hour power outages.
Good luck starting off! It is a fantastic hobby, but please understand it will demand some of your time and money.
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wtusa1783
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Thanks! So the stock lighting is good for some easy corals? Could I add some snails after a week to get the cycle going even after I add bacteria? I want a pair of clowns so how long after would you add them? Does this list look like a good starting point?
KingTideCorals
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Seems good I would +1 on the ATO! Will save a lot of heart ache
Welcome and good luck with the tank build!
Welcome and good luck with the tank build!
SebastianReefer
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I have a bio cube 14 or 16 gallon can’t remember which one but I have acros half way down in the tank on my rock and stock lights are growing them well
