Dosing an all SPS tank with hydrogen peroxide

In the UK and Europe, many seahorse breeders use Oxydators and report increased fry survival. Many of my friends have run Oxydator's for many years wIth increased water quality and O2. I have seen cyno cleared using Oxydator's but you need to deal with the cause or run Oxydator's with the correct % of H2O2 and number of catalysts 24/7 367 days of the year.
 
yep agreed. bee shrimp are uber sensitive, we can kill them just by using water with a slight variance in total dissolved solids, I rate them as the complete inbred wimps of the fw shrimp world but an oxydator is so safe they'll be crawling all over them and having babies directly on the OD while its running. OD gets kudos for what they can kill, with a zero collateral loss characteristic which is very similar to UV although UV wont add O2 to our water which is always nice too. considering the pent up sandbeds everyone likes in reefing, and the biological oxygen demand from that, a little boost in 02 is a-ok if that cost isn't an issue
 
I have a 40 breeder with really bad hair algae. I dose 10ml directly on the algae in the morning and dose the tank with another 10ml in the evening. It doesn't seem to affect sps at all. Slowly I'm winning the battle with the algae.

Try the magic Bryopsis cure. Took out all my hair algae too. Flucanizole....
 
I dosed 15ml of h202 store level for 6 days with lights off in a strictly SPS tank. This was in an effort to clear Dinos.

It did make all of the bases recede and I lost some patches on several delicate SPS corals. I have done lights off like that before and not had problems. Polyps also stopped extending till a few days after carbon cleanup and WC

Everything now is starting to color back up and looking better.

Finally be careful to realize you can kill off bacteria, snails, algae, toxic inverts.

The death of inverts, algae, and bacteria can be toxic! Be careful.
 
I have a 40 breeder with really bad hair algae. I dose 10ml directly on the algae in the morning and dose the tank with another 10ml in the evening. It doesn't seem to affect sps at all. Slowly I'm winning the battle with the algae.
did this work on Green hair algae. I did it for Dino a year ago, but did lights out for 3 days too.
 
I have a 72 gallon tank, mixed reef, and dose 5ml per 10 gallons. Have been for 6-7 months. No negative effects only positive. Slowly worked myself up from 1ml to 5 ml over 5 weeks.
 
I just did a remove and target a 50/50 peroxide on my rocks due to a GHA issue that just would not go away no matter what I tried. My tank is small so it was easy to pull everything out. I syringed the H2O2 on the rocks staying away from attached corals and my nems. Dipped my frag plugs to the coral base. So far the only loss is the GHA and a ton of some sort of invert/worm I could never ID ( less than 1/4 in long sort of looked like min bristles but have never seen bristles in the tank. I also stripped and rinsed the sandbed. We shall see if this worked!
 
did this work on Green hair algae. I did it for Dino a year ago, but did lights out for 3 days too.

It has been working very well for me. I'd say my GHA is down 80%. It turns white and slowly deteriorates. Removing the live rock and dipping it completely removes the algae but that's not always practical. I'm using this as a temporary measure until I figure out why I'm getting so much GHA.
 
it is for sure better than letting it self-seat further. these tufts of algae become little microcosms of self support, they literally catch and hold detritus to rot in place, and not be exported from the tank. actually targeting algae directly can kill it off independent from nutrients, that's why all the pico reefs on nano-reef.com have no algae we're peroxide zappers. Its not natural, its a total cheat, and to not have algae in the first place would have been ideal and for 17 yrs of reefing ive been trying to get that ideal but I found that early guidance for the system makes the algae come back less and less to the point I don't have to manage it anymore, and I have no idea what my nutrient params are I don't own test kits to know.

I attacked algae over and over till it died but it wasn't just pouring over the target either, it was using a steak knife to score off all the algae roughly, taking some topical scrapes on the rock too until that section was clear of algae. I only used peroxide as the final rinse on the cleaned areas, the rasping made those areas algae free like an urchin does. adding that physical destruction element is important as it kills the holdfasts, when we get growback after a peroxide treatment its because the holdfasts were in the rock crevices and weren't fully killed

removing the topical growth of the plant mass first allows for direct holdfast attack thereafter. less growback

I find nutrient management only important for making me have to garden less. its true I used to change my water more often during the guiding phase; I knew nutrients contributed to algae but managing nutrients wasn't required to get my tank into compliance.
 
Ive dosed it in the past. My zoas would close up for maybe 20 minutes, then back to normal.
 
I have some old 30% hydrogen peroxide which I'm guessing is closer to 15-20% being a couple years old that I use for injecting aptasia and majano anemones and hair and bubble algae. I will usually inject up to about 30 mL into anemones/algae in my SPS dominated tank once a week. I have found if I dose more then that it starts to effect the algae and beneficial bacteria and I'll start to see traces of redslime show up in the sand which dissapears after a couple days on its own. Haven't effect anything else other then that, I have almost all SPS, a couple flower pots, Christmas tree worm rock, electric flame scallop, sponges, pairs of cleaner, blood, and coral banded shrimp, 2 different types of urchins. I have been dosing like this for almost 10 months, no losses or effect on pods. I believe at lower doses it would be more effective for algae control as it wouldn't effect the beneficial bacteria as much and it would help breakdown/oxidize the detris that eventually leads to nutrients. I do find chemiclean much more effective for red slime tho.
 
I have a 72 gallon tank, mixed reef, and dose 5ml per 10 gallons. Have been for 6-7 months. No negative effects only positive. Slowly worked myself up from 1ml to 5 ml over 5 weeks.

You've been dosing for awhile, I'm interested if you have any updates.
 
I have a 120 that's about 1/3 full of mixed frags and colonies of sps and have have no I'll effects with it other than my dinoflagellets. Up to 15 mils in the morn and at night. No negative effects yet

@ncaldwell ... How has the dosing worked for you over the last few months ?? I'm seriously considering this method and i have an ALL high end Acro tank, so it makes me a little nervous.
 
I dosed for about 2 months but it wasn't killing it off. It definitely slowed the dinos especially after cleaning it off the glass and rocks, but didn't do anything to already established patches of dinos. On the plus side i didnt have anything die from the h2o2. I've since switched to vibrant dosing twice a week and it seems to be going really well. Just remember that this is only the case with my particular dinos strain. It could be way more effective for you, or of course do absolutely nothing
 

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