Dosing nitrates and phosphates increase

[homer1475]

Fish and fish foods are certainly not cheaper (except perhaps petco specials), but they might be "easier" and might be more fun.

Over brightwells products, I might have to disagree with you on that one.

 

[diver22]

If you feed more, with or without adding fish, that would be called increasing bioload, and one effect of increased bioload is increased nitrate and phosphate.

Since that may be the only effect you want, dosing those exact things is a good plan, and isn't called increasing bioload.

Food grade sodium nitrate and phosphate are the topics of dozens of threads here. They can be obtained from amazon for far less than the Brightwell products, and should not in any way be considered second rate. if anything, I'd use them over Brightwell even if they cost more since they are of known purity and the Brightwell products are not.


Examples:

Thank you for the advise Randy and also the education, need to use the correct lingo sorry if it mis lead anyone.

 

[homer1475]

I brought up bioload(more fish, inverts, food, etc), and it somehow got mixed up with the dosing.

 

[diver22]

One last question, should I remove my filter sock and turn off skimmer until I bring the levels up ?

 

[Righteous]

Randy's suggestions are spot on. I personally use Triton because I'm too busy (lazy) to mix up my own solutions and I trust the Triton purity. Plus, I also dose the Triton NH Alpha product which is ammonia dosing (I don't recommend that at all when you're starting out).

If cost is of concern, then dosing with products Randy suggested is really going to be your go to, to get things balanced.

As for adding fish, I would look at that as a long term solution (and a natural constant low dose ammonia production which corals like).

 

[Righteous]

One last question, should I remove my filter sock and turn off skimmer until I bring the levels up ?

Filter sock actually helps with the dinos. When you blow it off, it'll capture a lot and then you can swap it out every couple days. Skimmer and sock will capture stuff that is going to take a long time to break down anyway, so you're better off leaving them on and dosing.

 

[homer1475]

Randy's suggestions are spot on. I personally use Triton because I'm too busy (lazy) to mix up my own solutions and I trust the Triton purity. Plus, I also dose the Triton NH Alpha product which is ammonia dosing (I don't recommend that at all when you're starting out).

If cost is of concern, then dosing with products Randy suggested is really going to be you're go to, to get things balanced.

As for adding fish, I would look at that as a long term solution (and a natural constant low dose ammonia production which corals like).

I was going to bring up how corals prefer ammonia over residual N&P, but figured it was an advanced topic, and might be over the Op's head right now.

Kind of why I suggested just adding more fish.

 

[homer1475]

Sorry just went back and re read the OP.

For an immediate issue like dino's, just dose more. 100% agree.

More fish is more of a long term solution.

 

[Patman]

I ended up having to dose a total of 11ml in one day to get a reading of .02 po4 in my 10 gallon, back to 0.00 by the morning. Can't wait for it to stabilize testing 5 a day is getting old.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

I was going to bring up how corals prefer ammonia over residual N&P, but figured it was an advanced topic, and might be over the Op's head right now.

Kind of why I suggested just adding more fish.

Yes, dosing ammonia is also a fine plan that some are doing. But if you need N and P, feeding more is also fine.

 

[diver22]

Hey guys is this something i can use ? I have Prime so was wondering if is the same as "

Sodium Phosphate Dibasic "​

This was suggested Randy, but the above wanted to get confirmation...

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

"Lab Grade" is not really a useful designation. It can mean anything.

Good grades are USP (pharma), FCC (food) WCC (water supply grade), or ACS Reagent grade.

The nitrate one is good.

 

[diver22]

"Lab Grade" is not really a useful designation. It can mean anything.

Good grades are USP (pharma), FCC (food) WCC (water supply grade), or ACS Reagent grade.

The nitrate one is good.

Thanks a bunch Randy learned lots today....

 

[diver22]

I see reviews that they use this one, any concerns ?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

I can only see part of the ad, but it looks good.

Searching food grade sodium phosphate at amazon turns up many suitable products. There are fewer nitrate ones.

It can be trisodium phosphate, disodium phosphate, or monosodium phosphate.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

The Loudwolf brand is quite popular among reefers: