Can you link your source for that info? Everything I have been told and read about, says it’s bacteria. I’m not trying be combative. I’m asking out of concern, since I’ve been using it as well.
Bacterial product that can't reproduce in our tanks what I thought Vibrant was, as well. If it's an algicide then that's not something I'll be using.
www.reef2reef.com
Does Vibrant mess with Tig Copapods?
Dunno, there's still plenty of pods in my tank. I've just spent the last hour catching up on the Vibrant thread linked above. You should probably do the same. It seems UAC is selling snake oil - basically an algaecide dressed up as a bacterial product. It works, remarkably so. But it's not some magical natural product - it appears to be the same thing as algae fix. I think I'll continue to use it an an eradication effort of bryopsis and bubble algae, and once those are under control, I'll probably stop using it.
Tail spot blenny. Will keep your rocks pristine and give you a funny personality.
Thanks for posting this again. I saw that thread very early on, but hadn't kept up on the developments. Interesting read for sure.My speculation: Vibrant has some fluconazole in it...
I have read the word 'proved', far too many times in this thread being thrown around by people who say they have a science background. Just to be clear - these people are wrong. That is not how science works. I've seen nothing here that does not follow good methodology. Utilizing all available...
Not definitive proof but if you want to read through that massive thread it seems highly unlikely Vibrant is a Bacteria. The "inventor" of Vibrant never really has a solid defense/response
That's the only one I've thought of. Almost pulled the trigger on one months ago, but felt that adding a fish was counterproductive to algae control (bioload). Right now I really feel like I don't overfeed, and my nutrients aren't terrible, but a little high. (2-5 nitrates, 0.06 to 0.1 phosphates). It's like - "do I add more bioload, run higher nutrients, but have less algae"?
What type of lighting are you using? Also what type of photo-period are you running? I found it most times that was solved by taking away whites and running a shorter light cycle helps
I've got a pair of AI primes running 8 hours a day. They are using the BRSTV settings which are fairly blue, and I've got an hour ramp on either end. I've got a PAR meter, and I've tested about 175 on the sandbed, and between 250 and 300 on the top of the rocks depending on any particular spot.
Do you run any chemical media? It sounds like you’ll be okay with adding a tail spot since your nutrients are low. I would also suggest adding a small urchin would also help or even a sea hare will munch down any algae problems in your reef.
Don't fall for the lawnmower blenny if someone mentions that. A LFS sold me on this as the best alternative to my situation in lieu of adding more CUC. He does pick at algae here in there but he mostly eats the meat when I feed my other fish. He doesn't get along great with my watchman goby. Part of why I am heavy handed with my feeding is because I'm trying to make sure the Goby is getting his share because the LM blenny is such a pig. Ive been seriously contemplating rehoming him since he hasn't been super helpful and is probably causing me to contribute to my stubborn GHA.
Thanks. I did know about that and would much prefer that. However I don’t trust my heater. I’ve tried calibrating it and it just won’t consistently heat to what I set it. I don’t trust it to not fluctuate too low or cook my inverts by going over a degree in temp. Not looking to drop the cash for a second inkbird so I’ll just have to be more patient. Which I hate being lol
Nice thread here where they talk about it and the manufacture is very.... interesting in their response and keeps moving the goal post.
