Dr tims fishless cycle .. 0 ammonia 1.0 nitrite..
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jmichaelh7
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I followed instructions on bottle. 60 drops
Ludders
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They changed the instructions for some reason to add way more than they used to, but I'm not entirely sure why.
From my experience, their old instructions have the desired effect, except you don't end up with this massive nitrite spike in the middle.
What I would suggest is wait it out a week and test you nitrite again and see if it's more within a manageable range, or at least some notable movement in the right direct. If not then do more water changes to get it down a bit.
Are you waiting on a new tank at the moment?
From my experience, their old instructions have the desired effect, except you don't end up with this massive nitrite spike in the middle.
What I would suggest is wait it out a week and test you nitrite again and see if it's more within a manageable range, or at least some notable movement in the right direct. If not then do more water changes to get it down a bit.
Are you waiting on a new tank at the moment?
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Also handy: the cycled tank this rock is being added to doesn’t mind one way or another if the incoming rock is cycled. Add it weeks ago, same as adding now.
jmichaelh7
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What ?! If I was to just put this rock in my display the Ammonia spike and Phosphate spike would kill if not all SPS.
jmichaelh7
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No just wanting to throw in display
jmichaelh7
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Yes with plenty of fish and coral
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Your rock has already converted the ammonia to nitrite, so if you simply added it now it will be fine to do so.
The established rock will continue to deal with the ammonia and nitrite, so there wouldn't be a spike.
The established rock will continue to deal with the ammonia and nitrite, so there wouldn't be a spike.
jmichaelh7
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Dr time says to add ammonia again after nitrite and ammonia is 0.
Nitrite doesn’t look like it’s going to go down unless water is changed it’s been a. Week with a 50% change. I suppose if I’m in a hurry it’s ok to add now and disregard any nitrite spike that may possible occur
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No, nitrite is always to be ignored. The Dr Tim recommends are wrong. (Specifically, reef water has LOTS of cycling bac in it, he has a video that says it doesn’t, and nitrite cannot stall a cycle, and no reef cycle has ever stalled, those are the incorrect claims we document testing in the matter below)
here is a thread tracking the outcome of nitrite positive starts, and nothing goes wrong at all, ever:
www.reef2reef.com
your existing tank wouldn’t care if you put in totally dry rocks. your existing bac stay the same even if you add dry rocks, so it doesn’t matter. If your whole tank was new, then these rocks would need to be cycled and they are cycled, and done.
Dr Tims bottle bac works excellent, when you add it to rocks theyre cycled without much delay time at all. It’s so fast that thousands of people run fish-in cycling with it, to no harm to the fish. Ammonia is instantly controlled by it, seneye studies show.
here is a thread tracking the outcome of nitrite positive starts, and nothing goes wrong at all, ever:
How to unstick any seemingly stuck cycle
Updated Cycling Science in Action This is a testless reef tank cycling thread, the only one from any board. If you ever had trouble with reef tank cycling in the past, you won't any longer after working some jobs with us. chances are you are using/about to use a method of reef tank cycling...
www.reef2reef.com
your existing tank wouldn’t care if you put in totally dry rocks. your existing bac stay the same even if you add dry rocks, so it doesn’t matter. If your whole tank was new, then these rocks would need to be cycled and they are cycled, and done.
Dr Tims bottle bac works excellent, when you add it to rocks theyre cycled without much delay time at all. It’s so fast that thousands of people run fish-in cycling with it, to no harm to the fish. Ammonia is instantly controlled by it, seneye studies show.
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when Dr Tim mentioned reef water had no nitrifying bac he may have been referring to nitrosomonas or nitrobacter, the commonly assigned groups we know that do filtration work
however
other strains of bac handle the job just fine, and they are in the water such that we cycled an entire dry reef in twenty days by only adding in water from another reef…no feeding, no bottle bac. Even if initial strains change out over time for new species there’s still lots of active filtration bacteria in saltwater but it might not be the classic long-term strains that wind up taking over given time.
however
other strains of bac handle the job just fine, and they are in the water such that we cycled an entire dry reef in twenty days by only adding in water from another reef…no feeding, no bottle bac. Even if initial strains change out over time for new species there’s still lots of active filtration bacteria in saltwater but it might not be the classic long-term strains that wind up taking over given time.
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CYCLING ??How to unstick any seemingly stuck cycle
Updated Cycling Science in Action This is a testless reef tank cycling thread, the only one from any board. If you ever had trouble with reef tank cycling in the past, you won't any longer after working some jobs with us. chances are you are using/about to use a method of reef tank cycling...
It’s day 15.
Added rock and sand 15 days ago. Added dr. Tim’s 9 days ago.
5 gallon tank. Using live rock, live sand, dr. Tim’s Ammonium, and dr. Tim’s one and only.
Parameters today:
Ammonia - .25 ppm
Nitrite - 4 ppm
Nitrate - 56 ppm
(Nitrite and ammonia have remained constant nitrate is rising)
Is it doing it’s thing? Lol should I still be adding either products. Will ammonia rise even more? When should I water change? How long should the whole process be when using ammonia ans bacteria?
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consider post #1 of this thread,
www.reef2reef.com
let me know if you still have questions after reading all of post #1
it’s impossible to think you’re stalled after a short read there.
after study, if that first post doesn’t address your cycling parameters causing concern above I’ll go back and edit so it does
A thread tracking pure skip cycle instant reefs, no bottle bac
This is a testless cycling thread, we don't want ammonia testing here for any job if possible, because we are teaching reefers/readers that moving live rocks system to system does not restart the cycle: many in our community don't understand that rule and feel that any tank being setup simply...
www.reef2reef.com
let me know if you still have questions after reading all of post #1
it’s impossible to think you’re stalled after a short read there.
after study, if that first post doesn’t address your cycling parameters causing concern above I’ll go back and edit so it does
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jmichaelh7
2500 Club Member
I ended up running 3 weeks did a water change then dosed again ammonia to be sure the rock cycled . Once ammonia converted to nitrates I threw in my display
