Dr. Tims vs Live Rock

[KingTriton]

So I'm in the process of finishing up a new build, but undecided on the bacteria source. Ive had bad luck with weird strains of algae that like to dominate my tank so really want to avoid their means of being introduced as much as possible. So do you think I should seed with a small amount of LR or Tim's? Also, Ive read that Dr. Tims bacteria may not last the long haul "longer than 6+ months" even with an ammonia source present... Has anyone else heard of this? Thx

 

[NeuroticAquatics]

I've used Dr Tims several times and have never had concerns/problems afterwards.

 

[TylerS]

I don't think the "lasting longer than 6 months" statement makes much sense. A single bacteria cell reproduces quickly so for it to stop working it would have to stop reproducing for some reason. As long as "bacteria food" is present and temperatures etc. are correct (required to keep your other stuff alive) then I would doubt the Dr. Tims would have any problems. You could always start with Dr. Tims, and if you're really concerned add more at 6 months (or another product, there are several "bacteria in a bottle" products).

I think that 6 months comment probably came from someone with an interest in selling you Live Rock...

 

[KingTriton]

The 6mo-1yr statement didn't make much sense to me either. It came from a well respected member on RC. So well respected that I forgot his name....

 

[Jimbo662]

I've used Dr Tims several times and have never had concerns/problems afterwards.

+1...used it on my last two tanks with no issues.

 

[gtbarsi]

If you are looking to control your environment then go the DR Tim's route. I have used it before and really liked the results. There definitely was not any bacterial die off at 6 months.

You are going to have to QT everything before bring it in to the tank if you want to avoid bring algae in to the tank.

In addition I will point out that even if you do QT everything and remove all algae that you can spot on everything before adding it to your tank, algae happens. In the end the best way to mange algae is to insure that you manage the nutrients in the water, using at least a couple of nutrient export methods. There are a lot of nutrient export methods out there the key is to test your water and find a set of methods that you can keep up with that will keep up with the nutrients in your water. In addition you want to insure that you have some number of algae predators in your tank. After that the one other thing to keep in mind is that when you do get algae manually removing it will have a big impact if you are also managing your nutrient levels. I find using long tweezers or forceps along with a 1/4" siphon line let me remove all kinds of algae w/o siphoning too much water out too fast. The extra water change should help managing algae provided your source water is free of nitrates & phosphates.

 

[KingTriton]

In addition I will point out that even if you do QT everything and remove all algae that you can spot on everything before adding it to your tank, algae happens. In the end the best way to mange algae is to insure that you manage the nutrients in the water, using at least a couple of nutrient export methods. There are a lot of nutrient export methods out there the key is to test your water and find a set of methods that you can keep up with that will keep up with the nutrients in your water. In addition you want to insure that you have some number of algae predators in your tank. After that the one other thing to keep in mind is that when you do get algae manually removing it will have a big impact if you are also managing your nutrient levels. I find using long tweezers or forceps along with a 1/4" siphon line let me remove all kinds of algae w/o siphoning too much water out too fast. The extra water change should help managing algae provided your source water is free of nitrates & phosphates.

Thanks. I wish I were dealing with just GHA, diatoms, etc. Unfortunately this "alien" algae has been undefinable here on R2R. Hanna Phosphorus URL shows PO4 - .02, Nitrate - .02-.05 and I preform 10% weekly water changes. I always end up with the weird nuisance algaes haha. Its very hard to remove unlike GHA where a toothbrush will simply remove it. Its really gets its footing in there.

Anyways.. I placed an order of Tim's. Glad to here the good responses on here.

 

[gtbarsi]

Well after your re-boot if you are growing algae like mad consider using algae to compete for the nutrients. Both Fuge and ATS are defiantly excellent nutrient export methods.

 

[PatW]

The Dr. Tim's product is for cycling an aquarium. He has others that he claims various uses for. I think the 6 month time frame is how long it can sit in the bottle without use. Once you stick the bacteria into a tank, the bacterial populations will reflect the bio load of the aquarium.

If you have algae problems, you probably have high nitrates or phosphates or both. You reduce the levels by water changes, refugium with algae, algae scrubbers, GFO for phosphates, carbon dosing, not feeding as much and so on.