Dr Tim's vs Other Bacteria

[Forsaken77]

I'm getting ready to cycle my 180 soon. I got the Dr Tim's Ammonium Chloride solution so I don't have to add fish food, or other decaying matter, to produce a desired amount of ammonia.

My question is... Does Dr Tim's One & Only Bacteria contain anything different, than say, Microbacter 7, Biospira, ect... (or any bottled bacteria)? Because the cost of Dr Tim's bacteria is EXTREMELY high, around $100 for the large bottle, compared to equivalent sized bottles from other companies. Also Dr Tim's has a very short shelf life compared to others.

Is there a reason I should use Dr Tim's over the others?

 

[J Rog]

I did the cycle with Dr Tim’s. From all the videos and reviews I read A lot of other quick start bacteria bottles doesn’t have the “correct” type of bacteria. But I started with all dry rock (Marcos rock) and live sand. It took my 70 gallon around 3 and a half weeks for Ammonia and Nitrite to hit zero after dosing the the ammonia twice.

 

[jefra]

I've cycled using Dr. Tim's ammonium chloride and Biospira as the bacteria source. Like you, I was put of by the price of Dr. Tim brand bacteria. I've had no issues whatsoever following the same cycling instructions but with Biospira as a substitute.

 

[Forsaken77]

I've cycled using Dr. Tim's ammonium chloride and Biospira as the bacteria source. Like you, I was put of by the price of Dr. Tim brand bacteria. I've had no issues whatsoever following the same cycling instructions but with Biospira as a substitute.

So did you use Dr Tim's bacteria dosing instructions, but with Biospira, or did you use the Biospira dosing instructions? I am also using dry rock, CaribSea Life Rock, with the spored bacteria as well.

 

[SashimiTurtle]

I used Dr Tim's with dry pukani and a piece of scallop for an ammonia source. It did not make the tank safe for fish immediately like advertised. Took about 2 weeks to get ammonia down. I don't see any difference between the last time I cycled a tank using BioSpira.

 

[lion king]

Biospira works like a charm for me, I've been impressed. I use The Dr tims ammonium chloride to cycle also, dose the biospira per the biospira instructions. If it's your 1st time using ammonium chloride it's very important you let the ammonia and the nitrite BOTH zero out before you redose.

 

[jefra]

So did you use Dr Tim's bacteria dosing instructions, but with Biospira, or did you use the Biospira dosing instructions? I am also using dry rock, CaribSea Life Rock, with the spored bacteria as well.

^

 

[Forsaken77]

Biospira works like a charm for me, I've been impressed. I use The Dr tims ammonium chloride to cycle also, dose the biospira per the biospira instructions. If it's your 1st time using ammonium chloride it's very important you let the ammonia and the nitrite BOTH zero out before you redose.

Just one clarification... Never used ammonium chloride on this size tank. But according to the Dr Tims website, they say to add the whole bottle of bacteria for your tank size on the first day of adding the ammonia source. Is this how you did it?

For example, if I used One & Only (which I'm not), they say to add your sand and rock, let the dust settle for a day with the pumps running, then the following day add all of the bacteria at once. Then just let the ammonia and nitrite reach zero and redose ammonia again 2 days later (or when it hits zero). And dose the ammonium chloride 3-4 times like that. But you only add the bacteria once in the beginning?

 

[lion king]

Just one clarification... Never used ammonium chloride on this size tank. But according to the Dr Tims website, they say to add the whole bottle of bacteria for your tank size on the first day of adding the ammonia source. Is this how you did it?

For example, if I used One & Only (which I'm not), they say to add your sand and rock, let the dust settle for a day with the pumps running, then the following day add all of the bacteria at once. Then just let the ammonia and nitrite reach zero and redose ammonia again 2 days later (or when it hits zero). And dose the ammonium chloride 3-4 times like that. But you only add the bacteria once in the beginning?

Yes; once the tank is set up with rock and sand and settled; dose the tank with the biospira per the biospira instructions. Then add the appropriate amount of ammonium chloride. Let it cycle through ammonia and nitrite, depending the viability of the live rock this could be as quick as a few days to as long as a week. Once both are zero, dose the appropriate amount of ammonium chloride again. The 2nd cycle will be quicker, I usually cycle through about 3 times. Once your cycle zeros out overnight your nitrates will likely be quite high, time for a water change and you are ready.

I have cycled several tanks this way and keep my qt and observation tanks viable with ammonium chloride while unoccupied. If you do it right it is the best. Added note: make sure you dont dose your ammonia higher than 2 ppm, even at that you will be ready for a heavy stocking once cycled. I've even dosed as low as 1 ppm when I was planning a slow or light stocking progress. If you dose higher it will only take longer and is not necessary.

 

[Forsaken77]

Yes; once the tank is set up with rock and sand and settled; dose the tank with the biospira per the biospira instructions. Then add the appropriate amount of ammonium chloride. Let it cycle through ammonia and nitrite, depending the viability of the live rock this could be as quick as a few days to as long as a week. Once both are zero, dose the appropriate amount of ammonium chloride again. The 2nd cycle will be quicker, I usually cycle through about 3 times. Once your cycle zeros out overnight your nitrates will likely be quite high, time for a water change and you are ready.

I have cycled several tanks this way and keep my qt and observation tanks viable with ammonium chloride while unoccupied. If you do it right it is the best. Added note: make sure you dont dose your ammonia higher than 2 ppm, even at that you will be ready for a heavy stocking once cycled. I've even dosed as low as 1 ppm when I was planning a slow or light stocking progress. If you dose higher it will only take longer and is not necessary.

I'm not so much concerned with the length, but I'm putting in 2 big Mag Foxfaces (7" & 5"), a Formosa Wrasse 4"), Re Coris Wrasse (3"), Full grown Melanarus Wrasse, a Blue Throat Trigger (4"), and a Blue Spot Puffer (3").

Will 2ppm be enough to handle that at once? I mean I also have the bagged bacteria CaibSea Sand with the spored Life Rock. I just don't want to maintain 2 big tanks. I want to be able to dump all the fish in at once, so I wanted to make sure it's cycled for that load.

 

[lion king]

I'm not so much concerned with the length, but I'm putting in 2 big Mag Foxfaces (7" & 5"), a Formosa Wrasse 4"), Re Coris Wrasse (3"), Full grown Melanarus Wrasse, a Blue Throat Trigger (4"), and a Blue Spot Puffer (3").

Will 2ppm be enough to handle that at once? I mean I also have the bagged bacteria CaibSea Sand with the spored Life Rock. I just don't want to maintain 2 big tanks. I want to be able to dump all the fish in at once, so I wanted to make sure it's cycled for that load.

That is a heavy load, but processing 2ppm is quite substantial. I'd have seachem prime on hand and maybe even put an ammonia alert badge in, just in case. Obviously go slow with the feeding at first and be prepared for water changes if necessary. Old school we used to process 5ppm of ammonia.

 

[Forsaken77]

That is a heavy load, but processing 2ppm is quite substantial. I'd have seachem prime on hand and maybe even put an ammonia alert badge in, just in case. Obviously go slow with the feeding at first and be prepared for water changes if necessary. Old school we used to process 5ppm of ammonia.

Got a 2 litre bottle of Prime and I keep an Ammonia Alert badge in every tank, just in case something happens with the biofiltration. I'm a big supporter of using those, and not just on QT tanks. I always have 1 or 2 of them in my sump, just in case one is faulty, and keep roughly 3 on hand at all times. But I wouldn't rely on that to give exact readings, just a way to know if ammonia is present. Maybe I'll do 3ppm to play it safe. I'd rather prevent having to constantly do big water changes frequently on such a large tank.

 

[Mattscubeofwater]

Folllowing. Cycling tomorrow. Nervous [emoji51]

 

[Philt56]

Not sure why dr Tim differentiates between reef and saltwater? Setting up a new tank, I’m not putting coral in right away but will be a reef eventually.

 

[OnPointCorals Verified Sponsor]

Not sure why dr Tim differentiates between reef and saltwater? Setting up a new tank, I’m not putting coral in right away but will be a reef eventually.

That's a great question. What the heck is the difference?

 

[Philt56]

They told me that they are exactly the same. He said some retailers only want to sell “reef” products. Seems silly to me. Especially when some sellers list them at different prices!

 

[Blue Spot Octopus]

Dr Tims is on sale at BRS, if Dr Tim makes a difference between the reef and fish I would take his cue on that. He is quite the expert and our club is trying to get him to do one of our club meetings. But like you guys stated that most correctly setup tank is always, rock sand and water, no fish no corals. I guess his recommendation is for the treat and drop in fish crowd.

 

[Philt56]

They told me that they are exactly the same. He said some retailers only want to sell “reef” products. Seems silly to me. Especially when some sellers list them at different prices!

I got the answer directly from Dr Tim web site email support.

 

[Reef Jedi]

I’m a big fan of Microbacter7. Works well and is a nice long term product. Check it out on BRS website.