Dr. Tims

  • Thread starter Thread starter muk
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users None

muk

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Jun 2, 2023
Messages
55
Reaction score
10
Location
Los Angeles
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hello,
I am on day 3 of my fishless cycling with Dr. Tims and my current readings are:

PH: 8.0
Ammonia: 2.0 ppm
Nitrite: 2.0 ppm
Nitrate: 20 ppm

Do I leave it take it’s course or do a water change? I also have a lot of remaining Dr. Tims Ammonium Chloride solution and one and only, do I need to add more?
 
Hello,
I am on day 3 of my fishless cycling with Dr. Tims and my current readings are:

PH: 8.0
Ammonia: 2.0 ppm
Nitrite: 2.0 ppm
Nitrate: 20 ppm

Do I leave it take it’s course or do a water change? I also have a lot of remaining Dr. Tims Ammonium Chloride solution and one and only, do I need to add more?
Leave it alone, mine took 7 days with no water change.
 
Leave it alone. Google Dr Tim's he has a lot of videos and info on cycling watch/read those and do what he says. Messing with it now will delay the final results. 2.0 ammonia is the correct level you want to start the cycle if it drops below that in the first few days redose ammonia to get back to 2.0. Other then that leaves it to work. In 7 to 10 days you'll be good to add a qt'd fish.
 
Hi guys! Today my readings are:

0 ammonia
2 ppm nitrite
20 ppm nitrate

a LFS advised to add more ammonia and another suggested to add a damsel… any advice?
 
Answer: by day ten that bacteria is already well known to control ammonia and nitrite doesn’t matter, you don’t have to add more ammonia it’s bacteria are active obviously and per Dr Reefs study also adhered to your rocks such that several 100% water changes couldn’t peel them off.

So that means if you add a damsel it will live as far as ammonia control goes, but you’re also breaking every rule that governs disease control / quarantine and fallow so I wouldnt do that
 
Purpose of adding more ammonia is to check if population of nitrifying bacteria is large enough to support fish. Fish also excrete ammonia, but if for any reason bacteria population in your tank is subpar, fish will be stressed.
I would add more ammonia and see when it disappears. If it vanishes fast, then I would add fish.( slowly)
 
There are no linkable examples on the site, or any other site, of a fed + dosed dr tims cycle reducing 2ppm ammonia in ten days then all of a sudden failing to control ammonia

Its not like you'll be verifying something anyone here can link, or has seen, ever. More ammonia gets you more algae fertilizer to spurn the uglies phase, a notable problem here on the site for new tanks, and it takes you further away from focusing on disease preps over cycling doubt.


Don't fall into the trap of old cycling science, these bottle bac aren't weak and there are no cycling charts showing ammonia rising after a day ten drop for a very specific reason: it doesn't happen. Fear of known cycling science is the dark side :) don't take the bait

You are at the disease management phase, not the cycling phase, you paid for this boost/ don't feel scared to honor what you paid for and already measured

Cycling bacteria cannot be starved in an open topped home reef tank once fed and verified, after day ten. Any searchable cycling test ran by Dr Reef shows this I'm not just being contrary/ promise. The entire point of updated cycling science is discerning your cycle close date so you can focus on disease preps... your non digital test kits are likely to false stall after adding this much ammonia giving you two more weeks of doubt and skipping disease research, there's searchable threads on that for sure

Only trying to get you off the wheel of doubt so your reefing outcome is different that what we see in the disease forum for new dry rock starts, that's the motivation.
 
Last edited:
Do you want a damsel long term? The reason I ask is some LFS recommend them as first fish and whatnot.
 
Do you want a damsel long term? The reason I ask is some LFS recommend them as first fish and whatnot.
I do not want a damsel at all. My first fish of choice is a clownfish. LFS said I can add one for now, but honestly I am not trusting them. This is the same LFS that suggested adding tap water at first then salt inside the tank to get started
 
Purpose of adding more ammonia is to check if population of nitrifying bacteria is large enough to support fish. Fish also excrete ammonia, but if for any reason bacteria population in your tank is subpar, fish will be stressed.
I would add more ammonia and see when it disappears. If it vanishes fast, then I would add fish.( slowly)
Adding more ammonia would not delay/restart the process?
 
Answer: by day ten that bacteria is already well known to control ammonia and nitrite doesn’t matter, you don’t have to add more ammonia it’s bacteria are active obviously and per Dr Reefs study also adhered to your rocks such that several 100% water changes couldn’t peel them off.

So that means if you add a damsel it will live as far as ammonia control goes, but you’re also breaking every rule that governs disease control / quarantine and fallow so I wouldnt do that
I definitely do not want to add any fish at this stage. I am waiting for nitrite to go down and do a major water change
 
Adding more ammonia would not delay/restart the process?

No, it simply tests whether the ammonia processing capability is in place. It's a prudent approach, IMO, but not always necessary.
 
I definitely do not want to add any fish at this stage. I am waiting for nitrite to go down and do a major water change

There's no need to worry about nitrite, and a water change may not be needed either. The nitrate is likely far lower than measured due to a false reading due to nitrite interference.
 
The main challenge is getting api or Red Sea ammonia to validate on second pass of 2ppm added what we already know to occur after day ten wait in these specific conditions with the initial drop already measured and on time

If you had a calibrated seneye meter i wouldn't mind if you triply verified ammonia control, or dosed 2ppm eight times in verification... the system would keep clearing it over and over

Nobody knows yet what the confounds are that make red sea and api 'stick' after multiple ammonia doses and it's simply never an inability to actually clear the test load (when measured digitally)

Every inclination to verify then reverify just in case comes solely from the paradigm of non digital test approximations, which is the last forty years of knowledge about what reef tanks do with waste ammonia control

Variations in test accuracy and perception of those tests, but not the actual cycle ability, is where the doubt training comes from

digital tracking for ammonia control is new, not the majority, a few years established vs 40+ and has opened new understanding about the constant consistency of reef tank cycling. In my opinion it'll take another ten years for the hobby to eliminate cycling doubt from its training process and learn that disease management is where you verify+reverify--only the rise of cheaper/ digital/ competing brands beyond just seneye that can validate one another will bring about this change

I would like to say that owing to the nh4/nh3 interpretation issue plaguing cycling science currently Muk could just re dose some load ammonia and watch for a rise on the cheap kits, then a drop to indicate readiness (but not back to hard zero i.e. the basis of every stuck cycle post on the internet) but the fact remains i have lots of link examples where the second test dose stuck and didn't clear much at all... some were on day sixty of wait.

There are no sixty day cycling charts for any parameter

Basing your cycle on non digital test kits is begging to be trained in doubt. Gimme ten more years then check this thread for validity in claims :)

If you dose again and it clears that's great, it's a good kit and a good readers technique.

But if you dose again and it sticks, that specifically does not mean your cycle is stalled, there's over two million instances of false stalls on Google and they're comprised of api and red sea kits but never a calibrated digital kit already showing one verified drop, after day ten, using this strain of bacteria

*i believe fully a dead bottle won't clear a big load by day ten. This isn't a dead bottle though, we can already see in the posted results + timing at hand.
 
Last edited:
I definitely do not want to add any fish at this stage. I am waiting for nitrite to go down and do a major water change
Nitrates aren’t an issue in marine tanks, at least not at levels that could realistically occur.

If you’re going to quarantine then get your clowns now and start QT. The bacteria should be good while you wait, but if you want to reassure yourself then you could always add ammonia back up to 2ppm about 10 days before QT ends and watch as it promptly gets converted.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

New Posts

Back
Top