Drain and return same size?

ShinerMaginer

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My drains are 1" (3 of them), and I have a pump that is big enough to handle the flow. The input and output on the return pump is 1.5", so wondering if it's ok to reduce it down to 1", or if I need to go all the way down to 3/4? Trying to find anything that says I shouldn't have the drain and return the same size, but can't find anything other than concerns about the pump not keeping up. Any thoughts?
 
I would go down to 3/4" for the returns. Also doesn't matter the size of the pump I always put some sort of valve or flow regulator on the pump so you can fine tune the output.
 
So, to confirm: You have (effectively) 3" of drain and you're asking if 1" of return is acceptable?

I'd think so; though I agree with @Fishgeek88 and be sure to have a gate valve on the return (unless the pump is controllable) so that you can balance the flow to what you might want now or in the future. Might not be a bad idea to have a gate valve on two of the three drains (leaving one as an emergency overflow), but that really depends upon your specific setup...
 
My drains are 1" (3 of them), and I have a pump that is big enough to handle the flow. The input and output on the return pump is 1.5", so wondering if it's ok to reduce it down to 1", or if I need to go all the way down to 3/4? Trying to find anything that says I shouldn't have the drain and return the same size, but can't find anything other than concerns about the pump not keeping up. Any thoughts?

Drain Size
You're kinda looking at it backwards. The drain is a gravity drain and it requires the return pump to overflow tank water into it to even function. The pump feeds the drain and dictates the flow rate. Your drain flow rating (much like the pump's rating) is nominal – if your pump actually matched that flow, you would have either the loudest drain on the block, or a flood. ;)

So, a 1" drain is nominally rated for 600 GPH, but the ideal performance level is more like 300 GPH or less....keeping roughly to this flow limit lets you avoid all noise issues and most bubble issues.

So this gives you a comfortable 900 GPH of drain flow rate.

I don't know what size tank yours is, so just to have an example:
  • 200 gallons of tank would need anywhere between 2x and 4x that in GPH for return flow.
  • ...or between 400 GPH and 800 GPH.
  • Three 1" drains is enough to handle the biggest manufactured tanks
Plumbing Size
Plumbing size is dependent on how far, how fast, and in what direction you have to pump the water to get it returned to the tank. It is not related to drain size.

In general, you do not want to restrict a pump....the need for restriction could be interpreted as a need for a smaller pump – and we can pretty closely estimate the correct pump size for you.

In fact, a manufacturer's flow curve like this one from Sicce is all you need if you just have a simple return from the sump to the top of the tank.
Syncra_flowchart.jpg

If you had our 200 gallon example tank and wanted 400-800 GPH (2x-4x) of actual water flow, and we assume your tank is 6' high......(that's 1500-3000 LPH and 1.8 meters high).....the chart says you'd want anything from a Syncra 3.0 on up, but a 5.0 would really be overkill. A Syncra 2.5 would almost get it.

However, if you're planning any long runs or an otherwise more sophisticated return, then it might be wise to use a friction loss calculator like this to see if your plumbing will be a significant factor in your design. (In general, at lower flow rates, it's less of a factor and vis versa.)

I can help you work through your case if you post a detailed breakdown of what you have planned for your return, including the number and type of all fittings you can think of, as well as your actual tank size, height, etc.
 
So, to confirm: You have (effectively) 3" of drain and you're asking if 1" of return is acceptable?

I'd think so; though I agree with @Fishgeek88 and be sure to have a gate valve on the return (unless the pump is controllable) so that you can balance the flow to what you might want now or in the future. Might not be a bad idea to have a gate valve on two of the three drains (leaving one as an emergency overflow), but that really depends upon your specific setup...

This is pretty much exactly the set up I have. Three drains (with one going half to the refugium) and an emergency drain. I have gate valves planned for the drains as well.
 
I would NEVER valve a drain... just asking for a screw up. And just like a previous statement. They will flow whatever your return pump pushes up. I always go bigger by 25-35% on drain. A local installer told me that years ago. I have never had an issue, so I'm still sticking with that.
 
Drain Size
You're kinda looking at it backwards. The drain is a gravity drain and it requires the return pump to overflow tank water into it to even function. The pump feeds the drain and dictates the flow rate. Your drain flow rating (much like the pump's rating) is nominal – if your pump actually matched that flow, you would have either the loudest drain on the block, or a flood. ;)

So, a 1" drain is nominally rated for 600 GPH, but the ideal performance level is more like 300 GPH or less....keeping roughly to this flow limit lets you avoid all noise issues and most bubble issues.

So this gives you a comfortable 900 GPH of drain flow rate.

I don't know what size tank yours is, so just to have an example:
  • 200 gallons of tank would need anywhere between 2x and 4x that in GPH for return flow.
  • ...or between 400 GPH and 800 GPH.
  • Three 1" drains is enough to handle the biggest manufactured tanks
Plumbing Size
Plumbing size is dependent on how far, how fast, and in what direction you have to pump the water to get it returned to the tank. It is not related to drain size.

In general, you do not want to restrict a pump....the need for restriction could be interpreted as a need for a smaller pump – and we can pretty closely estimate the correct pump size for you.

In fact, a manufacturer's flow curve like this one from Sicce is all you need if you just have a simple return from the sump to the top of the tank.
Syncra_flowchart.jpg

If you had our 200 gallon example tank and wanted 400-800 GPH (2x-4x) of actual water flow, and we assume your tank is 6' high......(that's 1500-3000 LPH and 1.8 meters high).....the chart says you'd want anything from a Syncra 3.0 on up, but a 5.0 would really be overkill. A Syncra 2.5 would almost get it.

However, if you're planning any long runs or an otherwise more sophisticated return, then it might be wise to use a friction loss calculator like this to see if your plumbing will be a significant factor in your design. (In general, at lower flow rates, it's less of a factor and vis versa.)

I can help you work through your case if you post a detailed breakdown of what you have planned for your return, including the number and type of all fittings you can think of, as well as your actual tank size, height, etc.

Thanks a lot for this detailed response. I just wasn't sure if there was a hard and fast rule about your return being a size smaller than your drains. My return pump is bigger than I need (and is a DC controllable style), so I wasn't concerned about too much flow. But with the 1.5" heads on it, I wasn't sure if reducing it all the way down to 3/4 made sense. My tank is a 200DD, so about 57" from the pump to the top of the tank.
 
I would NEVER valve a drain... just asking for a screw up. And just like a previous statement. They will flow whatever your return pump pushes up. I always go bigger by 25-35% on drain. A local installer told me that years ago. I have never had an issue, so I'm still sticking with that.

Bean animals typically have a valve, don't they? I've never done one, but I think it's more to control gurgling. I get what you mean though.
 
Thanks a lot for this detailed response. I just wasn't sure if there was a hard and fast rule about your return being a size smaller than your drains. My return pump is bigger than I need (and is a DC controllable style), so I wasn't concerned about too much flow. But with the 1.5" heads on it, I wasn't sure if reducing it all the way down to 3/4 made sense. My tank is a 200DD, so about 57" from the pump to the top of the tank.

You could possibly get by with a smaller, cheaper pump as mentioned...but I would not reduce the plumbing size if you can help it.
 
Drain Size
You're kinda looking at it backwards. The drain is a gravity drain and it requires the return pump to overflow tank water into it to even function. The pump feeds the drain and dictates the flow rate. Your drain flow rating (much like the pump's rating) is nominal – if your pump actually matched that flow, you would have either the loudest drain on the block, or a flood. ;)

So, a 1" drain is nominally rated for 600 GPH, but the ideal performance level is more like 300 GPH or less....keeping roughly to this flow limit lets you avoid all noise issues and most bubble issues.

So this gives you a comfortable 900 GPH of drain flow rate.

I don't know what size tank yours is, so just to have an example:
  • 200 gallons of tank would need anywhere between 2x and 4x that in GPH for return flow.
  • ...or between 400 GPH and 800 GPH.
  • Three 1" drains is enough to handle the biggest manufactured tanks
Plumbing Size
Plumbing size is dependent on how far, how fast, and in what direction you have to pump the water to get it returned to the tank. It is not related to drain size.

In general, you do not want to restrict a pump....the need for restriction could be interpreted as a need for a smaller pump – and we can pretty closely estimate the correct pump size for you.

In fact, a manufacturer's flow curve like this one from Sicce is all you need if you just have a simple return from the sump to the top of the tank.
Syncra_flowchart.jpg

If you had our 200 gallon example tank and wanted 400-800 GPH (2x-4x) of actual water flow, and we assume your tank is 6' high......(that's 1500-3000 LPH and 1.8 meters high).....the chart says you'd want anything from a Syncra 3.0 on up, but a 5.0 would really be overkill. A Syncra 2.5 would almost get it.

However, if you're planning any long runs or an otherwise more sophisticated return, then it might be wise to use a friction loss calculator like this to see if your plumbing will be a significant factor in your design. (In general, at lower flow rates, it's less of a factor and vis versa.)

I can help you work through your case if you post a detailed breakdown of what you have planned for your return, including the number and type of all fittings you can think of, as well as your actual tank size, height, etc.
May I ask for your assistance?

So I have 3 internal overflow holes in the 120G tank. 1 of them size 1 1/2 and 2 others 3/4. I have planned to do a "herbie" style, so the 1 1/2 will be main drain (*) and one of the 3/4 is emergency drain. The remaining 3/4 is used for return of course.

Now the problem is, since I could not find a gate valve for 1 1/2, I ended up getting an 1 inch and plan on reducing the main drain (*) from 1 1/2 to 1 inch. So basically I will have the main drain at 1 inch and return is 3/4 inch. I guess the other emergency drain is not to be counted as it does not always drain anything unless, an emergency.

Question - any problem with this and/or any recommendation?

Thanks
 
Drain Size
You're kinda looking at it backwards. The drain is a gravity drain and it requires the return pump to overflow tank water into it to even function. The pump feeds the drain and dictates the flow rate. Your drain flow rating (much like the pump's rating) is nominal – if your pump actually matched that flow, you would have either the loudest drain on the block, or a flood. ;)

So, a 1" drain is nominally rated for 600 GPH, but the ideal performance level is more like 300 GPH or less....keeping roughly to this flow limit lets you avoid all noise issues and most bubble issues.

So this gives you a comfortable 900 GPH of drain flow rate.

I don't know what size tank yours is, so just to have an example:
  • 200 gallons of tank would need anywhere between 2x and 4x that in GPH for return flow.
  • ...or between 400 GPH and 800 GPH.
  • Three 1" drains is enough to handle the biggest manufactured tanks
Plumbing Size
Plumbing size is dependent on how far, how fast, and in what direction you have to pump the water to get it returned to the tank. It is not related to drain size.

In general, you do not want to restrict a pump....the need for restriction could be interpreted as a need for a smaller pump – and we can pretty closely estimate the correct pump size for you.

In fact, a manufacturer's flow curve like this one from Sicce is all you need if you just have a simple return from the sump to the top of the tank.
Syncra_flowchart.jpg

If you had our 200 gallon example tank and wanted 400-800 GPH (2x-4x) of actual water flow, and we assume your tank is 6' high......(that's 1500-3000 LPH and 1.8 meters high).....the chart says you'd want anything from a Syncra 3.0 on up, but a 5.0 would really be overkill. A Syncra 2.5 would almost get it.

However, if you're planning any long runs or an otherwise more sophisticated return, then it might be wise to use a friction loss calculator like this to see if your plumbing will be a significant factor in your design. (In general, at lower flow rates, it's less of a factor and vis versa.)

I can help you work through your case if you post a detailed breakdown of what you have planned for your return, including the number and type of all fittings you can think of, as well as your actual tank size, height, etc.
@mcarroll I recently acquired a 180 dual corner overflow, it only has 2 hole drilled a 1 ¹/² and a 3/4. I am guessing they used to only run a durso type well I have enough room to drill 2 more 1" bulkheads. I am just wondering if I can have a bean animal style with two 1" emergency drains and the main would be 1 ¹/² with a 3/4 return??
 

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