Drain pipe valve issues on a Reefer 250

RFRMDNESS

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I have a RS Reefer 250 and a Reef Octopus Varios-2 pump and noticed from the start setting the tank up a few months back that my water level in the overflow box is very inconsistent, it's either too high or too low. When its too high, my ATO turns on and I'm worried after time this will create instability in my salinity. I reached out to Red Sea and they sent a new drain pipe and valve, and it seemed to even out the inconsistency of water level for a while but now I'm back to the same low level and gurgling and then too high level with water rushing down the emergency drain.

I'm really disappointed and want to know if it is a pump flow inconsistency issue or a drain valve issue. How could I test this? Could I install a different valve? This is driven me nuts.

Anyone else with a Red Sea Reefer having this issue?
 
When it's too low or too high, make sure you BARELY turn the valve, then don't touch anything for about 10 - 15 minutes and see where it settles. When I say barely, I mean like a 60th of a turn, maybe less. Turn it at most an 1/8". If after 10 - 15 minutes it needs more or less, then adjust it again like a 60th of a turn and wait another 15 minutes. Keep doing this process until it's where you want it. I would aim for a water level of about 1/4" under the emergency drain. That will give you a little wiggle room if your powerheads are ramped up and moving more water around at the surface. If it doesn't hold over time, then I would simply replace it with a gate valve and call it a day.
 
Thanks Broadfield. I tried the very small changes the first round before i was sent a new drain pipe. Same thing is happening now, last time Red Sea support said it was my pump. So my experiment was to set my pump on the highest setting, then open the drain almost all the way so its at the lowest level and leave it. The water crept back up all the way to the emergency drain top. How can this be if my pump is on the highest setting and the drain valve was at the lowest. My Reef Octopus goes from 1-5 and is on a manifold so the flow is already reduced, how is it possible for the pump to pump more water at it's max setting. This leads me to believe theres something wacky with the drain valve.

Broadfield, any suggestions on a gate valve?
 
Thanks Broadfield. I tried the very small changes the first round before i was sent a new drain pipe. Same thing is happening now, last time Red Sea support said it was my pump. So my experiment was to set my pump on the highest setting, then open the drain almost all the way so its at the lowest level and leave it. The water crept back up all the way to the emergency drain top. How can this be if my pump is on the highest setting and the drain valve was at the lowest. My Reef Octopus goes from 1-5 and is on a manifold so the flow is already reduced, how is it possible for the pump to pump more water at it's max setting. This leads me to believe theres something wacky with the drain valve.

Broadfield, any suggestions on a gate valve?

Yeah, I don't know man. I also use a DC pump and never really had any issues with the Red Sea valve. I will say the gate valve is basically flawless though. I like the Spears gate valves from PVCfittingsonline.com.

https://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/1-pvc-socket-gate-valve-spears-2022-010.html

Then you would just need some 1" pipe, an extra Red Sea barbed return assembly... and replace the threaded barb with one of these:

https://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/3-4-x-1-sch-80-pvc-reducing-male-adapter-mpt-x-socket-836-102.html
 
I'm going to order those parts and replace the valve. It's killing me these noises considering how quiet the whole system is, I have either gurgling or whizzing noises.
 
Hi Broadfield, I'm about to order my parts this week. Where does the barbed piece fit into this mod? So I am still using the o-ring screw junction and then what? Am I cutting the old pipe? I'm a bit confused on how the parts fit.

Thanks!
 
You will need to order the part circled, directly from Red Sea USA out of Texas. The barbed fitting will unscrew from the assembly. You will then simply replace the barbed fitting with the adapter I linked to in my post earlier. Since the Red Sea barbed fitting is metric, and the adapter you buy is standard, you will need to use extra Teflon tape on the threads of the new adapter. I usually use around 12-15 wraps.

Reefer Return Fitting.jpg


This is what it will look like when assembled:

IMG_7689 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
 
Ah, makes complete sense now, thank you. I'm in Dallas, I'm sure it won't take long for the part. Also, I took apart the drain this weekend to clean it. It was completely filthy with at least 1/16th layer of gunk built up. I've only had my tank since April. Anyway, at first it seemed more stable, but I still get the fluctuations.
 
You will need to order the part circled, directly from Red Sea USA out of Texas. The barbed fitting will unscrew from the assembly. You will then simply replace the barbed fitting with the adapter I linked to in my post earlier. Since the Red Sea barbed fitting is metric, and the adapter you buy is standard, you will need to use extra Teflon tape on the threads of the new adapter. I usually use around 12-15 wraps.

Reefer Return Fitting.jpg


This is what it will look like when assembled:

IMG_7689 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr

WOW. That unreal! Very clean.
 
Is it possible to purchase Parts directly from the Red Sea website, or do you have to go through tech support?

You will need to call them:

1-888-RED-SEA9
 
Last edited:
Thanks! Does it matter if I use Schedule 40 or Schedule 80 pvc Pipe? Where did you find different colors?

No, it does not matter... and 40 and 80 is interchangeable. Schedule 40 is white and schedule 80 is grey... at least in the USA. All colored PVC is schedule 40 and typically referred to as furniture grade PVC. The colored pipe can be found at BRS. Colored fittings can be found at Aquarium Speciality, Amazon etc.
 
Hoping for some feedback. I'm replacing the overflow valve with a gate valve. I'm attaching a 3/4" x 1" adapter to the Red Sea adapter. I've tried it a couple times using 12-15 wraps of Teflon tape. However, it ends up looking a little crooked (not exactly straight). Is this because the Red Sea adapter uses metric and the threads aren't lining up quite right?
 
Word of caution if you replace the downpipe valve. I replaced mine a couple of weeks ago. WORKS GREAT. However, the Teflon tape on the threads started leaking today. After adding more tape, I must have overtighten the pipe when reattaching to the upper pipe and cracked the downpipe. Found a small crack in the threads. I had also done this when I setup the tank so I had an extra on hand. BE CAREFUL not to overtighten pipes on the Reefer.
 
Any update yet on replacement of the drain valve? As I am having the same exact problem from the get go.
 

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