Drip Acclimation Additives
- Thread starter Grissino
- Start date
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Over the years I've tried various dips during acclimation, but the only ones I found useful were Malachite Green/Methylene Blue if i know the fish has been exposed to ammonia in the bag or is otherwise damage. A formalin bath is effective if you know the fish has velvet/brook. But being formalin is a known carcinogen I wouldn't use that stuff unless you feel you have no other choice. I am currently experimenting with Acriflavine as a safer alternative to formalin. Early results look promising (i.e. the fish with velvet I am treating haven't died yet 
).
Ruby Reef makes a product called "Rally" which contains acriflavine. While I was on the phone with the guy from Ruby Reef, he started telling me about another product they sell called "Hydroplex". He claims a 10 min dip with this stuff eradicates all "surface parasites"/worms on a fish, except for those deeply embedded. Velvet/brook do not burrow into a fish's skin as deep as ich does. Which is why those are more susceptible to a FW dip/chemical baths. I looked up the active ingredients of Hydroplex, and I don't see how it's capable of doing anything he claimed. It's mostly ingredients you would find in cosmetics and herbal remedies (see below). But I have an open mind, so after I am done experimenting with this batch of fish I will find a fish with velvet and give him a 10 min dip using this stuff.
Hydroplex active ingredients: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Methylparben, octyl dodecanol, polysorbate-20, polyvinal pyrolidone, potassium phosphate, potassium sorbate, propylparaben
As mentioned above, it is best to drip acclimate for only 30 minutes max so that any ammonium that has built up in the bag doesn't turn to toxic ammonia once exposed to fresh air.
).Ruby Reef makes a product called "Rally" which contains acriflavine. While I was on the phone with the guy from Ruby Reef, he started telling me about another product they sell called "Hydroplex". He claims a 10 min dip with this stuff eradicates all "surface parasites"/worms on a fish, except for those deeply embedded. Velvet/brook do not burrow into a fish's skin as deep as ich does. Which is why those are more susceptible to a FW dip/chemical baths. I looked up the active ingredients of Hydroplex, and I don't see how it's capable of doing anything he claimed. It's mostly ingredients you would find in cosmetics and herbal remedies (see below). But I have an open mind, so after I am done experimenting with this batch of fish I will find a fish with velvet and give him a 10 min dip using this stuff.
Hydroplex active ingredients: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Methylparben, octyl dodecanol, polysorbate-20, polyvinal pyrolidone, potassium phosphate, potassium sorbate, propylparaben
As mentioned above, it is best to drip acclimate for only 30 minutes max so that any ammonium that has built up in the bag doesn't turn to toxic ammonia once exposed to fresh air.
crayon
Active Member
Have you tried the Hydroplex yet, and what are your results?While I was on the phone with the guy from Ruby Reef, he started telling me about another product they sell called "Hydroplex". He claims a 10 min dip with this stuff eradicates all "surface parasites"/worms on a fish, except for those deeply embedded. Velvet/brook do not burrow into a fish's skin as deep as ich does. Which is why those are more susceptible to a FW dip/chemical baths. I looked up the active ingredients of Hydroplex, and I don't see how it's capable of doing anything he claimed. It's mostly ingredients you would find in cosmetics and herbal remedies (see below). But I have an open mind, so after I am done experimenting with this batch of fish I will find a fish with velvet and give him a 10 min dip using this stuff.
Not yet. All of my free time lately has been tied up helping my local club put on a fundraising event. I still need to test out Hydroplex, Seachem Paraguard and even a diatom filter.
crayon
Active Member
I'm having an extremely anxious week about a new fish that arrived in less than ideal shape. He has a cloudy eye, a patch of fungus on one fin and developed a bit of white cotton on his anal fin. It's an ornate Boxfish, so cold water, in quarantine, and I've been talking to the zoo vet about treatment. Right now he's getting vit c and melafix (just started) and he's eating great, but I'm considering a 10 minute dip in Hydroplex. My concern is the lack of information.Not yet. All of my free time lately has been tied up helping my local club put on a fundraising event. I still need to test out Hydroplex, Seachem Paraguard and even a diatom filter.
The vet has suggested formalin or Prazi. Also suggested Furan 2. Not sure what the best option is, but the Hydroplex is a contact medication and all his symptoms appear to be external. I thought this might be a less stressful approach short term, and let him continue to recover with the melafix for the next few weeks.
Can you shoot me a pic? The "fungus" and "white cotton" may just be Lymphocystis - a virus which usually subsides in time. The cloudy eye could just be damage from shipping, or a bacterial infection or even flukes. Just one cloudy eye or both?
crayon
Active Member
I'm fairly certain the fungus and cotton is lympho, and the original thought was the eye got damaged in shipping, but it got worse this week and now has a little white pimple in the middle of it. It's just one eye, the other is fine.
Will upload video shortly.
Will upload video shortly.
crayon
Active Member
Video when he first arrived last week. Photo was yesterday. That's the bad eye side, but I don't have a close up.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/08e0on5y1b92m9v/IMG_0985.MOV?dl=0
The "pimple" on the eye is just Lympho - when fish have an outbreak, it can grow anywhere. Even over their internal organs. It only sometimes remains confined to the fins/spines.
This is what I would do: Dose Epsom salt @ 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons. That will help relieve the swelling in his eye. But if that doesn't work, be prepared to start dosing antibiotics soon. Erythromycin is the treatment of choice for eye infections, but Kanaplex and/or Furan-2 should work too.
I don't think this fish has flukes in his eye, but you can easily confirm/rule out the presence of flukes by doing a FW dip (see below.)
Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes, Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.
How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.
Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.
For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.
Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.
Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
It only sometimes remains confined to the fins/spines.This is what I would do: Dose Epsom salt @ 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons. That will help relieve the swelling in his eye. But if that doesn't work, be prepared to start dosing antibiotics soon. Erythromycin is the treatment of choice for eye infections, but Kanaplex and/or Furan-2 should work too.
I don't think this fish has flukes in his eye, but you can easily confirm/rule out the presence of flukes by doing a FW dip (see below.)
Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes, Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.
How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.
Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.
For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.
Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.
Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
