Dripping gravity fed ato into sump

[adamg77]

Hello fellow reefers!

I am looking at a gravity fed ATO for my 140 going into a float valve. Is there a reason why people don’t put the ATO on a slow drip with a quarter turn valve? It is something that could be dialed in and adjusted for seasonal changes? I feel like it would be more consistent and reliable than a float valve that could fail.

 

[Gill the 3rd]

You could do it that way. You will have to readjust every now and then as your evaporation rate increases/decreases. I just use a float valve. The non-adjustable float valves are pretty reliable and don't really fail. The only issue I've had with float valves was in my saltwater mixing barrel one time. My heater power cord crossed over the float and stopped it from floating/closing.

That being said, I do use the flood guardian which is an optical sensor and solenoid valve. I just place the optical sensor in my sump, above the water level when the return pump is off. If somehow my float valve got stuck open the solenoid valve will shutoff flow from my RODI reservoir.

RO/DI Flood Guardian - RODI Auto Shut Off Solinoid (AKA The Marriage Saver) - XP Aqua

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[Paul B]

Is there a reason why people don’t put the ATO on a slow drip with a quarter turn valve?

My tank has been running like that for over 40 years. I don't have a sump so it feeds right into my tank from a bucket hanging from the ceiling that gets filled from a RO/DI.

The water goes into my tank just a little faster than what is needed so if it fails, which is very rare, not much water will enter my tank.

You can see the 7 gallon blue bucket and the DIY de-ionization chamber

 

[adamg77]

My tank has been running like that for over 40 years. I don't have a sump so it feeds right into my tank from a bucket hanging from the ceiling that gets filled from a RO/DI.

The water goes into my tank just a little faster than what is needed so if it fails, which is very rare, not much water will enter my tank.

You can see the 7 gallon blue bucket and the DIY de-ionization chamber

Great info!
I understand that each system is different my main concern with using the float valve is inconsistent salinity if it evaporates too much to trigger the float valve activating.
Which would you say is more reliable? Having a valve on it and adjust it manually or the float valve?
Obviously the valve would not be touched by any of my three children(hopefully lol)

 

[Paul B]

I never touch my float valve and the level of the water in my tank never varies at all. I once went to Germany and had a tank sitter watch my tank. They allowed the water to drop about 7 inches killing everything above where the water should have been. But everything below the water in very salty water was fine.

My salinity varies greatly and always has from me doing things, not the fault of the float valve. Fish and corals are not as delicate as many people believe.

 

[Pntbll687]

I never touch my float valve and the level of the water in my tank never varies at all. I once went to Germany and had a tank sitter watch my tank. They allowed the water to drop about 7 inches killing everything above where the water should have been. But everything below the water in very salty water was fine.

My salinity varies greatly and always has from me doing things, not the fault of the float valve. Fish and corals are not as delicate as many people believe.

That last sentence is SOOO TRUE and people just don't want to accept it.

I use a gravity fed float valve on my frag system, and it works just fine. I just have to remember to fill the container. I've forgotten to fill it for a week or more, nothing happens to the coral.